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Topics - broken1

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Suspension and Chassis / Alternative rear MC push-rod
« on: June 26, 2018, 03:14:04 AM »
Just finished rebuilding a complete set of brakes to replace the tired, butt dragging 32 year old originals on my R. All the zinc was gone from the push-rod I was going to use & there discontinued so after talking to @hawaiiysr he steered me toward Suzuki. We have an 87 LT230 & it looked to be pretty close so I ordered one for that. I think the LT250 & Zilla also used the same rear push-rod in the same era so one could be ordered for any one of those LT's & it will work on the R rear master. The part number for the one I got was 69670-00A00. Above the seal groove all the dimensions are within a few thousandths so there a direct replacement. I used a Shindy rebuild kit for the R master with the LT push-rod & it fit together like it was OEM. The LT rod is about 1/4" longer than the Honda rod so it will probably need to be shortened to keep the brake pedal in the right spot with OEM pegs & pedal... Also for the front master cylinder there was a kit shown specifically for the 86 & than a kit for the 87-89. The 86 kit was in the $35-40 range but I got the $18 87-89 kit anyway & it was identical in every way to the guts I pulled from the 86 front master I used for the rebuild:

Lounge / Long travel banshee giveaway
« on: January 23, 2018, 08:00:02 PM »
Check out the crazy front suspension on this banshee I saw on CL:

Lounge / How to ship an axle for $19
« on: September 28, 2017, 04:45:35 AM »
I found a great way to get cheap shipping on an axle. This one is going to Hawaii & since shipping there is so expensive I ended up just cutting the axle into 3 piece's & was able to get it into a large flat rate box with the sprocket hub still on. Since the axle is hollow it will be easy to put a piece of 3/4" rebar in there for reinforcement & weld it back together. Have fun with the fab work Josh :)

Carburetor, Intake, and Exhaust / Keihin 38 AS tower gasket?
« on: August 04, 2017, 02:04:31 AM »
Does anyone have a link or info on where to get these seals from a US supplier that are made by keihin? I've found them in rebuild kits on ebay but there made in china:

Lounge / Black Walnut & Metal bench I'm working on
« on: November 27, 2016, 08:44:11 PM »
I was inspired by the steel firepit log that     [MENTION=52]sameltoe[/MENTION] made so I'm using his idea to make legs for a black walnut slab I found in the shop. Here's a few pictures of what I got so far:

Suspension and Chassis / Alternatives to Laeger a-arm bushings
« on: November 18, 2016, 07:16:29 PM »
Was doing a search for bushings because Laeger wants too much for them & found this older thread on atvriders. Hopefully [MENTION=150]Langbolt[/MENTION] can chime in with some info:

Wanted / 88-89 seat foam
« on: October 10, 2016, 06:12:56 PM »
Looking for an 88-89 oem seat foam or aftermarket foam thats the exact same height as 88-89 oem. Or if someone's got a complete 88-89 seat with trashed pan & or trashed cover that's fine too as long as the foam's good. Thanks.

For Sale - Parts / Polished red 87 fuel tank
« on: June 09, 2016, 03:42:47 AM »
Tank polished up nice but there are still some nicks & marks from having a tank cover on it at one time. It only comes with the tank protectors. No cap, strainer/petcock or mounting hardware. $85 shipped. Thanks for looking:  

Body and Controls / Polishing plastic
« on: May 11, 2016, 04:38:41 AM »
I've been getting into polishing plastic & found a method that works pretty good & takes less time than sanding. As a matter of fact it's so easy this guy could do it:

I picked up a 3M headlight polishing kit, 0000 steel wool, Meguiars polishing compound & a bag of microfiber rags. The drill I used was a DeWalt 12V li-ion. It's 1500rpm max. The headlight kit comes with a bunch of sanding discs but I didn't use any of them:

The oxidation was easy to remove with the steel wool but it does take some rubbing. Sanding in one direction seemed to give the best results. Before starting on a tank be sure to seal the filler hole with tape or something because the static from using steel wool will draw the fibers into the tank. Also it is dusty so it's a good idea to wear a dust mask using this method. It took just under 5 hours to complete this 86 tank:

 There was a few deep scratches but I decided to leave them because feathering them out would take some time & it would also make it a lot thinner:

When using the buffing wheel the key is to let the wheel do the work & don't apply too much pressure. I worked both the steel wool & buffing wheel in overlapping straight lines from back to front to avoid swirl marks. Put about 4 peanut sized dabs of compound on the wheel & smear it over the work surface & go to town. Once you feel it start grabbing a little it's time for more compound. The filler neck area is a little hard on the wheels but so far I've done 2 tanks & a hood with the same wheel & it's holding up good. After polishing there will be a slight haze that can be buffed out with the microfiber rags also working in one direction. Circular buffing will leave swirl marks:

Tanks & hoods are pretty easy to do & the end results are worth the effort if you have the time. It's also a cheap alternative to replacement plastic.

For Sale - Parts / 85 seat pan & foam
« on: April 12, 2016, 02:52:49 AM »
Got this in a parts lot, someone stuck an extra layer of foam to the original 85 foam & than stuck a foam backed fabric over top of that. The extra layer of foam should come off fairly easy without damaging original foam. Looks like it was put on with spray adhesive. Comes with rear mount. $55 shipped:

Duner / The dune pic thread
« on: April 01, 2016, 07:09:12 PM »
Let's see those duners & where you ride them.

Took a couple pics at Florence yesterday. There was still a lot of water but the sand was like glass on the open dunes. The trails & hills on the other hand were like riding through a rock quarry after a blasting session:

Body and Controls / Difference between 86 & 87 gas tanks
« on: February 29, 2016, 12:29:31 AM »
I always thought the 86-87 tanks were all the same & the 88-89 tanks were the same. I learned the 86 tanks are actually different than the 87 tanks. 87 tanks share the same dimensions as the 88-89 tanks which are shorter than the 86 tank by about 1/2". The red tank I have wouldn't go far enough forward to get the bolt in on the 86 frame & the 88-89 tank I have is the same way. This is how the OEM 86 blue tank mounts, perfectly centered:

This is how the red 87 tank mounts up to the 86 frame:

Made a 3/16" spacer from kydex plastic to get the bolt in:

The only physical differences I noticed between the 2 was the length & the 86 tank has provisions for 2 rubber donuts per side on the lower section & the 87 tank has only 1 per side:

           [MENTION=24]croat1[/MENTION] sent me a pic of a red tank with 2 donuts per side &           [MENTION=463]Skeans1[/MENTION] said his tank was the same. I think that can be used as a quick visual reference to determine the years of the earlier tanks. Side by side you can clearly see the different lengths, 86 on the left & 87 on the right. I checked the 87 tank against the 88-89 tank I have & it's the same length:

Also Jared said the 86 tank he has on his 88 frame is opposite from the way the 87 tank mounts on the 86 frame & the bolt on his is toward the rear of the mount.

Body and Controls / Reconditioning oem seat covers?
« on: December 24, 2015, 09:22:49 AM »
Have any of you reconditioned old stiff seat covers to make them pliable again? If so what chemicals were used to make it happen? Thanks.

Wanted / 86-87 red tank protectors
« on: December 07, 2015, 12:36:05 AM »
Looking for a set.

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