Author Topic: Oklahoma Gold Rush Amateur XC (Read 7481 times)

rk88r · « **Reply #15 on:** November 05, 2013, 04:13:27 PM »

Bummer, the only advice I could offer is blip the throttle when decelerating. The motor needs fuel then also.

89Longrod · « **Reply #16 on:** November 05, 2013, 05:29:52 PM »

I would send your motor off to one of the builders that post on this site if I was in your shoes. The work they do speaks for itself and they wont try and manipulate you into using their services by trying to act like your best buddy and giving you their cell phone number lol... Hope you get back up and running asap.

Pricecheck · « **Reply #17 on:** November 05, 2013, 05:46:37 PM »

Longrod, it was like you read a text I was given this morning!

I've already been in contact with Neil. That text this morning rubbed me the wrong way and I think I know where I'll be spending my time while discussing R's for now on.

There is too much knowledge and real world experience here to not be a part of. I've already got Dan and Troy down the road and that has helped a lot.

Pricecheck · « **Reply #18 on:** November 05, 2013, 06:34:19 PM »

Quote from: Bowtie316;16648

Pricecheck, I just went to the races website and wow that looks like a fun race. I was surprised how long it is, like 5 laps of 11 miles each or something like that, holy crap. I might try to go run beginner next year but certainly wouldn't brave it on a big bore, my stock R would wear me out.

Yeah, it was 5 laps of 9 miles. I was going to do that and supermoto since I brought my mx tires that were worn to about 65%. I knew the xc would have kicked my butt, but I needed to get out there and do it. I guess next year I'll have plenty of time to get it ready and in shape.

89Longrod · « **Reply #19 on:** November 05, 2013, 07:18:50 PM »

Quote from: Pricecheck;16661

Longrod, it was like you read a text I was given this morning!

I've already been in contact with Neil. That text this morning rubbed me the wrong way and I think I know where I'll be spending my time while discussing R's for now on.

There is too much knowledge and real world experience here to not be a part of. I've already got Dan and Troy down the road and that has helped a lot.

That's great to hear PC Neil does awesome work from what I have seen in the past and peoples posts praising his motors. I plan to send my motor to him when the time comes and my buddy Lou is hoping to send his out this winter to have the bottom end rebuilt. I don't have a problem with the people on the other site, I go there from time to time to check out posts that aren't over here but every time I go there I just feel greed is what powers that site. Just so you know also my post on the other site might have came off as rude but I was just trying to give you some honest help instead of giving you the run around like some others on that site will do.

C-Leigh Racing · « **Reply #20 on:** November 05, 2013, 07:19:36 PM »

Hummm, I think I seen in that second set of pics, where the "plop" sound you mentioned in the PM came from, the front edge of the piston.

Cylinder bore dont look very bad at all, so far as damage, but that ol piston took the toll after the two start ups.
Neil

Bowtie316 · « **Reply #21 on:** November 06, 2013, 08:01:05 AM »

Pricecheck, some other things to consider, does the petcock flow enough fuel to feed this big bore when running it hard? Have you done a flow test and timed how long it takes to flow 10oz of fuel? Might look into the petcock mod if you haven't already modified your fuel system.

Also, are you running a good fuel?

Pricecheck · « **Reply #22 on:** November 06, 2013, 09:49:17 AM »

Quote from: Bowtie316;16738

Pricecheck, some other things to consider, does the petcock flow enough fuel to feed this big bore when running it hard? Have you done a flow test and timed how long it takes to flow 10oz of fuel? Might look into the petcock mod if you haven't already modified your fuel system.

Also, are you running a good fuel?

Bowtie I have not modded the petcock. Great idea on looking into it. I wondered if it were possible.

I run c12 with castor 927 32:1 mix.

Bowtie316 · « **Reply #23 on:** November 06, 2013, 09:59:16 AM »

Quote from: Pricecheck;16750

Bowtie I have not modded the petcock. Great idea on looking into it. I wondered if it were possible.

I run c12 with castor 927 32:1 mix.

Fuel and oil sound fine, check this thread out. http://trx250r.org/showthread.php?1637-Petcock-mod-flow-data

Pricecheck · « **Reply #24 on:** November 06, 2013, 01:09:47 PM »

Here's the crank/rod area….

[ATTACH=CONFIG]2239[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]2240[/ATTACH]

C-Leigh Racing · « **Reply #25 on:** November 06, 2013, 05:13:58 PM »

Hummm, that dont look like an OEM rod, not clearanced like that, maybe Hot Rods crank.
Push that thrust washer over the the side & measure in between the washer & rod. Be sure to measure with the end of the feeler gauge, just between the rod & washer & not all the way down to the pin beside the bearing cage.
Neil

Pricecheck · « **Reply #26 on:** November 06, 2013, 08:37:48 PM »

The measurement all the way down with the rod shifted to one side is the .044. All the way down is the .025. All I know is it's an ESR 330 top end with a +4mm stroke. If you click on the first picture I actually drew on it in the computer program and labeled where I measured from and the specs.

I did in fact use the end of the gauge. I think it's best that I do what we discussed and rip of the sides and remove the clutch assembly and flywheel stuff and send in the rest for you to go through. It's the safest bet and leaves me with the peace of mind that it has been gone through by a professional and it is to spec. Me doing this and saying it's good probably isn't the way. I band aided my exhaust leak and it obviously failed me and put me here. I'm not down to be at this point during the next ride or race!

I sent you a pm as well.

Pricecheck · « **Reply #27 on:** November 10, 2013, 03:32:19 AM »

Alright, so after my piston destruction I wrote BDT, c-leigh and jerry hall. Being the impatient person I am and other factors I went to BDT, the original builder of the engine. I know many don't favor this choice but hear me out. He is the original builder of the engine. He was reasonably priced for the work and he will be throwing in a little extra tuning into the mix. I'm curious to see what this yields. I know I'm not experienced in a lot of setups but with this choice I am getting a faster turnaround and good work. Have you know, bdt's engine didn't fail me. I failed to properly fix the exhaust leak and it cost me a piston. We all learn and thus unfortunately cost me a race, $650+ and maybe a membership to .org since I'm dealing with "the dark side"! There's nothing but love here but know I have to look out for what's best for my finances and ultimately my family.

I know there's a past with individuals and certain people but I'm one to try and get along with all. We are all R lovers and I'm here to gain knowledge from all if you who were fortunate enough to get into earlier than I was.

Stay tuned for my results of the petcock mod. I plan on noting the cap vents and petcock diameter.

Until then, keep the legend alive!

PS. sorry about the iPhone auto correct.

Pricecheck · « **Reply #28 on:** November 10, 2013, 11:39:16 AM »

Quote from: spiritaces;17109

Get your engine back together and get out there and race. No matter who builds your engine, YOU have to be happy with it, not anyone else. Look forward to reading more.

Thanks man. I look forward to posting my progress and the future hybrid I'm going to build for my wife. I have an 88 frame and my wife wants an electric start 4-stroke.

89Longrod · « **Reply #29 on:** November 10, 2013, 01:51:59 PM »

He gave you the old wheel and deal just like he wanted hahahaha