Author Topic: Lrd attitude fix (Read 5343 times)

mandom250r · « **on:** January 22, 2015, 05:34:45 PM »

Does anyone know who can fix this? Or can it be fixed? Had a talk with arlan and he had no clue lol

Hawaiiysr · « **Reply #1 on:** January 22, 2015, 07:11:17 PM »

Grind and smooth old welds. Get an aluminum spacer. Reweld spacer in correct place. Now tap the hole. Tapped aluminum is easily stripped out. I would install a metal insert such as a timesert so the bolt used will not pull out.

Easy fix just need the right tools.

mandom250r · « **Reply #2 on:** January 22, 2015, 07:15:47 PM »

Arlan said these chassis are shot peened and heat treated. He said to do it right you have to heat treat it again because thats what makes the aluminum strong. He also said that if it was his he would just do a quik weld and use it like that lol

mandom250r · « **Reply #3 on:** January 22, 2015, 07:16:58 PM »

Not really too concerned about the fender mount hole but i dont like that crack on the weld.

Hawaiiysr · « **Reply #4 on:** January 22, 2015, 07:31:24 PM »

Oh I see the crack now. I didn't enlarge the pic. Drill a small hole at each end of the crack. Clean out the crack and make a nice V for the new bead penetrate. Hit it with a map torch to heat it the weld in a new bead.

BAAAM!!! GO RIDING!!!

mandom250r · « **Reply #5 on:** January 22, 2015, 07:35:38 PM »

Quote from: Hawaiiysr;49140

Oh I see the crack now. I didn't enlarge the pic. Drill a small hole at each end of the crack. Clean out the crack and make a nice V for the new bead penetrate. Hit it with a map torch to heat it the weld in a new bead.

BAAAM!!! GO RIDING!!!

lol i wish i had some skills but i need this done right. Its going to be a duner again and i cant ride hard anyway but it will make me feel comfortable.

2ndmoto · « **Reply #6 on:** January 22, 2015, 09:29:27 PM »

Reweld and heat treat is best and correct solution. I'd weld gussets in at the same time.

Best regards
-Jason

mandom250r · « **Reply #7 on:** January 22, 2015, 09:31:41 PM »

Quote from: 2ndmoto;49158

Reweld and heat treat is best and correct solution. I'd weld gussets in at the same time.

Best regards
-Jason

yup, you know anyone that does this kind of work? How much would it be?

2ndmoto · « **Reply #8 on:** January 23, 2015, 01:51:22 PM »

I would check locally with anyone working with aluminum to find someone to heat treat. Contact metal suppliers, machine shops, fabrication shops or metal finishing shops (chrome or anodizing shops). Someone has to know in your area. Big ones I know of are Sapa and Anodizing Inc, but they are in the NW and are production shops, might not do small quantities. I believe it was Sapa that was doing the LRD frames when they were in production.

Best regards
-Jason

Jerry Hall · « **Reply #9 on:** January 23, 2015, 09:10:49 PM »

You will need a steel jig or fixture to hold the aluminum part to keep in alignment to maintain it's dimensions while heat treating. Aluminum is typically expensive to heat treat because of the hours of "oven time" and the size of the oven needed to hold the part and oven fixture.

Aluminum parts are unlike steel parts. Steel parts can have an infinite structural life as long as the part is never stressed or flexed past it's elastic region. Aluminum has a limited life span. Every time an aluminum part is flexed any amount it is one "flex" closer to failure. Flex the part very little and you will get many little "flexes" before it fails. Flex it a lot and the life is short.

Has your part reached its reached the end of its life span where the metal is fatigued everywhere and will continue to crack in other places or was it not welded properly when it was made.

I would follow Arlans advice and just weld it and hope for the best.

Bio86 · « **Reply #10 on:** January 23, 2015, 09:28:40 PM »

You may be able to clean the anodize off and fuse weld that crack to get buy or just grind it all and re-weld it, I wonder what filler they used. It's about impossible to get an aluminum weld to hold in a higher fatigue type application like frames unless it is horribly over designed. Like Jerry said unless it was a poor weld it's all about fatigue limit and once that number of cycles has been met it's only a matter of time. I'm doing an lrd attitude build, I hope mine is fairly fresh :/

Bio86 · « **Reply #11 on:** January 23, 2015, 09:31:26 PM »

If you're in the Kansas area I can have it done for nothing, we do a lot of aluminum square tubing at work.

mandom250r · « **Reply #12 on:** January 23, 2015, 10:28:37 PM »

Thanks for the advise guys! I really didnt want to hear that but i guess ill save myself some money and maybe later when im rich ill just get another frame or two :lol:.

Mr. Hall you are correct, Arlan said that after they were heat treated they would have to be bent back because they would flex with the heat. I had a feeling it would be expensive to heat treat so going with another frame would be the best idea. I really want to keep it all LRD/LED so if you also say to follow Arlans advise then thats what im doing.

This damage was caused by me getting t-boned by a truck at the dunes so im thinking theres more damage but just havent noticed. Its going to stay a duner and i dont plan on doing any competitions anyway.

Bio86 i am going to tear the bike apart and inspect the best i can. If thats the only damage i find and you think you can help me out I would like to have this taken care of asap as i already placed the order for a LED sphynx.

Hawaiiysr · « **Reply #13 on:** January 24, 2015, 12:34:10 AM »

What does this frame weigh bare? Stock 86 is 46lbs

mandom250r · « **Reply #14 on:** January 24, 2015, 12:50:45 AM »

Quote from: Hawaiiysr;49256

What does this frame weigh bare? Stock 86 is 46lbs

i weighed it before but i forgot. I will post a pic on a scale when i strip it down.