TRX250r.org

Author Topic: my R  (Read 1126 times)

Offline havinnoj

Re: my R
« Reply #15 on: June 24, 2020, 05:35:37 PM »
thanks. we only have 2 other trips planned for this year but we are probably going to go atleast a couple more times this year, our next planned trip is to the winchester ride in august then with some friends.

Right on, will be great to see everyone!

Offline evaneyeball

Re: my R
« Reply #16 on: November 12, 2020, 11:11:13 PM »
I took my motor apart and I got my cases split. I did find it had less than half a quart of oil in it and I think I found a hole in one of my main seals so that's where it was getting by. And my cylinder had a small crack in one spot and scored pretty bad but good thing I am doing a new cylinder. I should have my motor done in the next couple weeks but I have no idea about the pipe I'm getting also. Just kind a thought I'd share what I found
LED built 269

Offline The norm

Re: my R
« Reply #17 on: November 12, 2020, 11:52:36 PM »
Before you start this new engine you absolutely need to do a leak down test.  It seems that your problems have been a continual lean condition. When you burn up the 350 cylinder it will cost twice as much to rebuild as your stock cylinder.
Things you must do before you start the new engine:
1) Static compression test.
2) Leak down test (hold 8psi for at least 10 minutes)
3) Check fuel flow to the carburetor
4) Test your ignition
5) Fill the transmission with oil
6) Consider the jetting advice given to you constantly by the many experienced people on this site.
In 25 years of riding 2 strokes I have only lost 1 engine and it was at this year's R meet. I have spent hours trying to determine the cause.
1986 Trx250r-- Hybrid Engineering 391(Good bye super 310)
1986 Trx250r-- Hybrid Engineering  ported stock 86 cylinder
1986 Trx250r-- craigslist engine with unknown ported 89 cylinder.
1985 Atc250r-- Needs a lot of work (Super 310's new home)

Offline evaneyeball

Re: my R
« Reply #18 on: November 13, 2020, 12:11:34 AM »
I was told that it did hold for a compression test by arlen and I trusted him but I absoloutly am doing my own leak down test this time I'm also assembling it myself this time and on the jetting I dont know where to start on that so any information would be great. I now know why there is so much build up on top of my piston now and that's because it was crank case oil.
LED built 269

Online jwraymond6

Re: my R
« Reply #19 on: November 13, 2020, 12:32:28 AM »
Why not have Arlen assemble it as far as jetting start rich  and adjust one at a time starting with the pilot then needle and main last
87 363 sphynx built by Pete @ hybrid engineering

Offline evaneyeball

Re: my R
« Reply #20 on: November 13, 2020, 11:53:09 AM »
I just dont know where to start because it needs so much more fuel. And the oil I did put it in a measuring cup and it was a quarter of a quart so it wasnt burning too much but still burning some. I was thinking of the banshee and how it takes a quart and a half
LED built 269

Offline Jerry Hall

Re: my R
« Reply #21 on: November 13, 2020, 05:55:07 PM »
Are you sure that the transmission was accurately filled and then checked on a level surface?  Did you remove the level screw first and added oil until oil spills out of the level plug hole.  If so, you probably did get the transmission full of oil.  It sometimes takes a while for the oil to equalize from the clutch compartment side to the transmission side.

Are you sure that there is not an external leak out of any of the other seals that keep oil in the transmission, or gaskets or out of the vent line? 

Crank seals do not usually get a hole in them.  The sealing edges of the seal lips get flat and loose their sharp edges as they ware.  Crank seals and minor air leaks get blamed for a lot of burned up and or seized pistons that were actually due to miss tuned carburetors and or riding styles that are not compatible with high performance two strokes. 

Pressure testing the crankcase is not the end all answer to knowing if your crankcase is air tight.  There are two lips on crank seals.  One lip holds pressure and the other holds vacuum.  A leaking vacuum lip on the seal is what causes lean conditions and not a leaking pressure lip on a crank seal.  A leaking pressure lip just causes a very slight loss of power or sometimes blows transmission oil out of the transmission vent line. 

The Vacuum lip is very flexible and delicate and is usually the first lip to ware out.  The pressure lip on most OEM crank seals usually have a special coating that is brown or copper looking in appearance.  Most of the online seal kits do not have good quality crank seals in them.  Try to use OEM crank seals if possible.  If you use OEM seals and load up the area between the two lips with light weight white grease or vaseline the crank seals will last forever
« Last Edit: November 13, 2020, 06:24:22 PM by Jerry Hall »

Offline evaneyeball

Re: my R
« Reply #22 on: November 13, 2020, 06:21:52 PM »
It was done on level surface i did stop the filling as soon as it came out of the level plug and there for sure is no external leaks. And I did notice this morning that the clutch side main. Seal was not seated right, one side of it was pressed in further
LED built 269

 

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