Coolant Leaking Issues

[bushwesl]

I’m having some coolant leaking issues on my new build at the head/acorn nuts and on the ESR quick change cover/hose barb. Note that this is just after putting it together and adding coolant - it’s never been ran.

It appears that the acorn nuts themselves are leaking based on where the leaked coolant can be seen (on top) and possibly at the crush washer too. I’m not sure if the head studs are too long and after torquing the acorn nuts they’ve developed micro cracks or what. Has anyone seen this before? Does anyone have any recommendations for acorn nuts that can be used here?
 
Second is the ESR quick change cover/hose barb. I bought this cover used and it didn’t come with the hose barbs. I found some billet ones at Edelbrock, which did not thread very well into the cover. I retapped the the cover threads, but the way it’s threaded into the cover and with the depth of the tap, I wasn’t able to retap as many of the threads as I would have liked. I used thread tape and threaded in the barb, which felt fairly secure/tight, but it was definitely suspect. And now it’s leaking🤬

To salvage this cover I’d like to try and reseal it, but use something better than typical thread tape. Does anyone have any suggestions on what to use here? I found this product, which is pricey, but figured I’d ask here first for any better options/suggestions before ordering.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-d024erl?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAiAuaKfBhBtEiwAht6H7zg9r7paretUaKmDyuhSTMpqIjX7HGE1BRuPicKyTmpTQOmi-c8CLRoCcNoQAvD_BwE

[croat1]

Wes, check out the last post in this thread

Joe

https://www.forums.trx250r.org/index.php/topic,8415.0.html

[bushwesl]

Thank you, Joe! I’ll get some Loctite 263 and try it out. Hope it works🤞🏻🙏🏻 I have a feeling this was why the previous owner sold the cover and why it didn’t include the hose barbs…

[bushwesl]

Do you think these would work for the acorn nuts?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/142485516178?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=vnA4I6-BTu-&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

[croat1]

^^^^^yes Wes I was going to suggest those nuts.

Joe

[croat1]

When you have a chance can you please post a picture of the fitting threads and the clutch cover threads.

Joe

[bushwesl]

Will do. Unfortunately, none of the local stores had Loctite 263 in stock. I ordered some online and it should be here later this week, along with the new head nuts.

[broken1]

I had slight coolant leaks around some of the acorn nuts on my R & that was with all oem parts including oem copper sealing washers from a different model bike, I even lapped the head perfectly flat before putting it together. I ended up using a thin film of ultra copper rtv on both sides of the copper washers which seems very redundant but it stopped the leak.

[bushwesl]

When you have a chance can you please post a picture of the fitting threads and the clutch cover threads.

Joe

Here you go, Joe.

I cleaned the threads and applied a liberal amount of Loctite 263 to both the cover side and barb side, then tightened it down. I’m going to let it cure for the next few days. I hope this works!

[bushwesl]

I’m happy to share that the Loctite 263 and MacDaddy Racing acorn nuts have done the trick! At least so far. I also added a thin film of high temp rtv on both sides of the washers as well. Thanks again for the help!

One thing I noticed when I reinstalled the headstay was how poorly the head bolt lined up. When I previously installed it, I must have put the head bolt in first before the frame bolts. I imagine that it was torquing the head/cylinder more than it should have by doing so. Instead of forcing it, I’m either going to leave the bolt out (seems a lot of people don’t run the headstay anyway) or open up the hole to allow clearance to easily get the bolt back in there. Thoughts?

[croat1]

On an OEM frame use the headstay to tie in the upper frame rails

Joe

[bushwesl]

On an OEM frame use the headstay to tie in the upper frame rails

Joe

I’m still going to use the headstay, for the reason you mentioned, but was considering not using the bolt that goes through the head. 

[The norm]

I like to leave all mounting bolts a little loose until I get them all in, including the headstay bolts. Then go around tightening them up a little at a time. My frames are all 86's so I also have the swinger on and bolt tight. So basically just work my way around the engine getting it settled in. The lower mount, front mount, around the headstay are the most important. The rear mount on 86/87 frames are usually wallerd out so bad that it really doesn't do anything! I know Kevin will torque every bolt to honda specs. Oddly enough he never has frame cracking..... I should start listening to him lol
Loren

[broken1]

My dad modified the head stay on my R when I had a lr crank & a spacer but when I went back to no spacer plate the M10 bolt wouldn't fit anymore so rather than modify it again I just used a 3/8" grade 8 bolt instead. It's been in there for 10 years now.

[bushwesl]

I loosened up the rest of the mounts and got it closer. Then took a round file to take off the last little bit needed on the head to get the bolt through. It’s all back together now👍🏻