TRX250R.ORG
General => Projects => Topic started by: Texas30cal on August 29, 2021, 11:58:57 PM
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I posted this in the introduction thread but I’m going to again here so anyone who reads has the whole story:
just acquired my second 250r, it’s a 88, my first was a 86 I got new in 87 and was stolen in 92 😭. I’ve wanted one ever since. I got a brand new 92 quad racer but it didn’t do the trick for me so I sold it. Then I had a super clean 350x in 94 that I sold in 96 🤬 (STUPID)!! In 2004 I acquired 2 used cannondales cheap they’ve been great and still have them, but I finally got another R yesterday. It’s all there and pretty clean, not running, black plastic 👎 and some nice aftermarket parts. I pulled the engine today, and am making a parts list.... anyway, thanks for listening and I hope to learn and contribute as I’ve been working on atvs since 84, was a tech for 3 years, ran a service dept for 5 years, and now have my own shop for 10 yrs this month.
Yes, a buddy has had it for about 10 yrs, pic is still at his shop as I don’t have room. I finally talked him out of it, trading my labor building 2 guns for him , one Spanish cetme c and a mg42. Swingarm looks great, all rubber parts are soft with no cracking except for the shock bump stops. Axle is rusty, has renthal bars, cannondale LT front end with elkas, aftermarket steering post with vibration dampeners, black plastic has no cracks , haven’t seen the seat yet it’s upstairs, also came with stock front end, itp front and rear sand tires, and Graydon proline nerfs
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I didn’t get a pic before pulling the engine, first pic is with the cannondale moto LT front end, second is after more disassembly and after installing the stock front end, next is wash and degrease, then sand the rusty spots and touch up. I don’t plan to try for a perfect restoration right away but while it’s nearly stripped I want to get the frame, and steering stem painted right.
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All cleaned/degreased , more parts stripped off, now to decide if I sand/touch it up or sandblast it. Also got some small parts blasted.
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Bringing back memories of when I first got mine.
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Looks like a very nice foundation to build off of.... Have you considered just cleaning & waxing the frame & leaving it alone other than that? The OEM paint on my wife's 86 frame was in pretty much the same shape as yours & since it gets ridden the most instead of making it all pretty I just degreased & waxed the factory paint & it looked pretty nice until after 6 years of dune riding its about time now to do it all over again.
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I’d really like to make it look better, it won’t be ridden a lot and will NEVER be in the mud. It’s been touched up before as there is grey primer visible and the red touch ups wipe off easily with brake cleaner. I’m having trouble finding a 66.75mm piston right now.
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Here's one. Looks like the only one available on ebay at the moment. Better buy it up quick:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/254899138373?hash=item3b592c2f45:g:D8AAAOSw2xRYRr4-
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I looked and looked but didn’t see that one, already found one for $20 more 🤦♂️. Thanks anyway for the tip!
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Lots of progress here , frame is stripped, a couple of small repair welds to clean up and it’s off to the blaster.
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I love seeing stock framed R’s being redone. Thanks for posting your progress. Can’t wait to see it finished.
Joe
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Thanks, I will keep posting, I’ve got more. I think all engine parts are here , crank, piston, gaskets, seals, all new trans/balancer bearings and all but one of the cases are bead blasted and painted. I went today to check on the Ford race red for the frame, for 1 qt of paint with reducer and hardener and 1 qt of epoxy primer with reducer snd hardener they wanted over $400 😳. I’m going to try one other place and if it’s that high it’s going to get the pj1 88-89 Honda red.
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From what I remember the head/cylinder on the 88-89 were bare but not dull like bare blasted aluminum like the cylinder in my pic. On the cylinder head I used a bronze brush by hand to knock the rough surface down. I think this is the way I’m going to do it with a coat of VHT clear to prevent the bare aluminum oxidation.
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You can also use plasticote cast aluminum caliper paint. It’s high temp cleans oil and gas off of it easily. I’ve had it on cylinders for years and it looks new still. But it’s not it’s very easy to re-coat it and make it look brand new again.
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Another picture.
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Looks good👍
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From what I remember the head/cylinder on the 88-89 were bare but not dull like bare blasted aluminum like the cylinder in my pic. On the cylinder head I used a bronze brush by hand to knock the rough surface down. I think this is the way I’m going to do it with a coat of VHT clear to prevent the bare aluminum oxidation.
It's all turning out nice... I've been doing the exact same thing to my cylinders for many years except for the clear coat part. One thing I learned about using the brass brushes is it leaves a slight gold tinge on the aluminum. I switched to a stainless brush for that reason.
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I didn’t notice it but I do understand, I believe I even have a stainless one, thanks!
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Brushed with a fine SS brush and clear coated, it’s not perfectly uniform but looks decent I think. Now I have to bore and chamfer.
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I rigid honed the cylinder today to .0027-.003” clearance. Dressed up the 3 repair welds the previous owner made and drilled the one broken case bolt out. Dropping the frame off to blast in the morning , not sure when it will be ready. I should have a completed engine this weekend🤞.
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Well after all of the wondering about frame paint colors and finding out that I wasn’t going to spend $400+ just for materials to paint it, I did the most obvious thing to figure it out……I peeled a factory decal off the frame and sure enough there was the original color!! The head stay is painted with the pj1 88-89 Honda red right next to it.
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Here she is👍
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Well this evening I hit a little snag…….I’m guessing it’s the wrong crank👎
Looking up the numbers they show to be correct for a 88, hot rods 4007 crank and wiseco 562M06675….. any ideas out there?
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After doing a couple of searches , I think I may have a 86 cylinder, will check tomorrow.
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Looks like you need a spacer plate. What crank piston combination are you running? Long rod with 86 piston needs a 3/16" spacer plate.
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That’s it, I just checked ……. The cylinder has the intake bridges but the piston does not have a intake window, so that makes it a 86 piston correct? I verified before I ordered and just checked again, looking up by application on wiseco’s site shows the piston part number I have for a 88. Looks like it was boxed incorrectly????
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The part number for the Wiseco short rod pistons all start with 526M0
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Yep, the box shows 526MO6675 just like the website shows for a 88 , somehow the wrong piston got in the box 👎
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OMG, I just figured out what’s going on, I’m so dense🤦♂️, the part numbers are 562M___ and 526M___, now I feel like a dumbass!
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Finally made some progress on the build.
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Almost finished, although I do plan to get whit plastics for it.
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Clean machine. Nice work