TRX250R.ORG
General => Projects => Topic started by: Michael88R on February 02, 2015, 11:30:22 PM
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This has been a very slow project, but I thought I'd share a bit about it. I mounted up the swing arm last night and I'm definitely gonna have to cut off the lower linkage mount. The swing arm hits it well before the suspension gets to full droop. So I've got 2 start stripping the PC off this frame so it can be gusseted and pc'd.
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[ATTACH=CONFIG]7834[/ATTACH]
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Anyone know how to post pics from your phone. I tried in the post above. It showed up at first, but now it doesn't come up on my PC.
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Are you using tapatalk?
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Uhhh......no.
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Uhhh......no.
download tapatalk and it will be much easier posting pics from your phone
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Photo bucket has a phone app
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I'm using tapatalk now. I'm still learning the smart phone thing.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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http://i49.tinypic.com/bfs78.jpg
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Dang what swinger is that? Reminds me of the ARSFX gull wing.
My gut reaction is to ask you why do you want to go to the no-link? I would do some research on what intake setup you plan on running with it before making the move. The no-link intake can be a really really big pain in the ass, I know this all too well.
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I have no problems with my intake on a no link roll swinger with stock chassis. I have heard many people claim all these issues and shock relocation, etc. I Literally changed the shock and swinger and that was it. Obviously if you want to run a longer shock or change trajectory of the shock angle then so be it. But at that point, you already know what you're setting yourself up for and check all your bases, and also have the abilities to figure it out.
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Dang what swinger is that? Reminds me of the ARSFX gull wing.
My gut reaction is to ask you why do you want to go to the no-link? I would do some research on what intake setup you plan on running with it before making the move. The no-link intake can be a really really big pain in the ass, I know this all too well.
I learned the hard way with no-link as well. I loved the suspension! But never knew about airbox issues. Luckily, while spending hours just starring at my build I noticed the $99 aluminum air box was awfully close to the shock, like an inch away (I actually have a thread on here)... I then spent $175 having it modified... so $275 airbox for me (yeah, I think I overpaid but looked perfect).
I imagine running no airbox is the cheapest / best way anyway, no? unless you ride trails / creek crossings..
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I learned the hard way with no-link as well. I loved the suspension! But never knew about airbox issues. Luckily, while spending hours just starring at my build I noticed the $99 aluminum air box was awfully close to the shock, like an inch away (I actually have a thread on here)... I then spent $175 having it modified... so $275 airbox for me (yeah, I think I overpaid but looked perfect).
I imagine running no airbox is the cheapest / best way anyway, no? unless you ride trails / creek crossings..
My problem was that I needed a nice sealed box for XC racing/riding.
My no-link problems were referring to my Laeger. So if your OEM frame and the swinger combination give you a steeper shock angle than mine then you might be ok clearance wise.
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Dang what swinger is that? Reminds me of the ARSFX gull wing.
My gut reaction is to ask you why do you want to go to the no-link? I would do some research on what intake setup you plan on running with it before making the move. The no-link intake can be a really really big pain in the ass, I know this all too well.
It is a Koq or kids on quads. They were 499 new when I bought it. Cheaper than a used Roll and the gull wing is supposed to help the air box clearance. Why run it? One, I already bought it and two, I'd like my rear suspension to work better. Especially in the whoops. I'm not sure what I'm going to do on the air box yet. May just go with an eliminator. I think with the stock frame it is not as bad because the air boot fits next to the shock body vs with a long shock it will be against the spring. I was gonna build this for desert but I think now it's just gonna be a duner so the AB eliminator may be the easiest.
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I have no problems with my intake on a no link roll swinger with stock chassis. I have heard many people claim all these issues and shock relocation, etc. I Literally changed the shock and swinger and that was it. Obviously if you want to run a longer shock or change trajectory of the shock angle then so be it. But at that point, you already know what you're setting yourself up for and check all your bases, and also have the abilities to figure it out.
What intake r u running?
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Esr elim kit. And alli do is dune, so an outerwear on that is more than fine. But if keeping an airbox, I am useless for info. Never tried it.
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Esr elim kit. And alli do is dune, so an outerwear on that is more than fine. But if keeping an airbox, I am useless for info. Never tried it.
I remember Marc (silverlake250r) was running the ESR elim on his stock frame no-link and it seemed to fit good. If I have to, I'll just run that or maybe one of LED's intakes.
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It is a Koq or kids on quads. They were 499 new when I bought it. Cheaper than a used Roll and the gull wing is supposed to help the air box clearance. Why run it? One, I already bought it and two, I'd like my rear suspension to work better. Especially in the whoops. I'm not sure what I'm going to do on the air box yet. May just go with an eliminator. I think with the stock frame it is not as bad because the air boot fits next to the shock body vs with a long shock it will be against the spring. I was gonna build this for desert but I think now it's just gonna be a duner so the AB eliminator may be the easiest.
Ok if you're running the eliminator then you'll have no worries about fitment. I was only raising the question in case you had the need for a complete intake system with airbox. Then it's a nightmare
The no-link will work way better than the stock linkage provided the shock is setup correctly. It awesome not to have to deal with linkage
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I have no problems with my intake on a no link roll swinger with stock chassis. I have heard many people claim all these issues and shock relocation, etc. I Literally changed the shock and swinger and that was it. Obviously if you want to run a longer shock or change trajectory of the shock angle then so be it. But at that point, you already know what you're setting yourself up for and check all your bases, and also have the abilities to figure it out.
The intake setup concerns are only if you plan on running a full airbox setup. If you have an eliminator kit my question is moot
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This is an old thread but still a long ongoing project, but I finally pulled the trigger on a Motowoz shock for this project! It will take Jim 4 weeks or so to build it. In the mean time I have to prep my frame. I will post pics when I get it.
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Waiting for my shock. Updates coming soon !
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(http://forums.trx250r.org/vbulletin_imports/316_7472_2017-04-18_7229.jpg)(http://forums.trx250r.org/vbulletin_imports/316_7472_2017-04-18_7229.jpg)
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(http://forums.trx250r.org/vbulletin_imports/316_8022_2017-04-18_8844.jpg)
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This is an 88' frame. When the swinger hits the link mount, the shock eye to eye is only about 14". I need to cut it off to fit the 15 3/8" shock.
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(http://forums.trx250r.org/vbulletin_imports/316_8495_2017-04-18_8975.jpg)
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I was finally making some progress on this til I ran into fit issues on the swingarm. The chain sliders and the brake caliper specifically. The brake caliper is gonna be tricky to bolt up. I'm gonna have to try putting the bolt in before I put the brake stay on. Chain adjustment will be limited as welll
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(http://forums.trx250r.org/vbulletin_imports/316_8496_2017-04-18_917.jpg)
(http://forums.trx250r.org/vbulletin_imports/316_8497_2017-04-18_9157.jpg)
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Why not just cam the bearing holder back?
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Maybe try the brembro brake caliper from race tech titanium
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Maybe try the brembro brake caliper from race tech titanium
Cuervos racing does them too John.
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Why not just cam the bearing holder back?
The pin that holds the brake stay is too low. Cammig it back doesn't change that. It does help get the rear bolt in.
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What did Tom tell you when you asked him about the rear caliper issue?
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I was finally making some progress on this til I ran into fit issues on the swingarm. The chain sliders and the brake caliper specifically. The brake caliper is gonna be tricky to bolt up. I'm gonna have to try putting the bolt in before I put the brake stay on. Chain adjustment will be limited as welll
Have a brake stay plate machined with a diff index so the caliper is rotated back more. Wat probs do u have wid chain sliders?
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What did Tom tell you when you asked him about the rear caliper issue?
Nothing real solid. I don't think he was fully understanding it. He said back when mine was made, they were using 400ex brakes, carrier and axle a lot. He never told me that when I bought it. It does explain the gap between the swingarm and the brake stay. The 400ex and 450r carriers are narrower so he made it to fit them all. He said he would move the pin higher if I wanted but I just spent $180 on powder coating. I found a picture of yours. Looks like the pin is welded on higher on yours.
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Maybe try the brembro brake caliper from race tech titanium
Can you send me a link?
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Have a brake stay plate machined with a diff index so the caliper is rotated back more. Wat probs do u have wid chain sliders?
The holes that mount the slider are way off forcing it too far forward into the countershaft sprocket. The pin that locates the slider centered with the countershaft sprocket was way off as well. It is designed to use a 400ex slider which I bought with it from Koq. The rear slider does not line up but I think with some washers and shimming I can get it. Looks like it will be rubbing on the top side of the rear slider.
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(http://forums.trx250r.org/vbulletin_imports/316_8498_2017-04-18_1775.jpg)
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(http://forums.trx250r.org/vbulletin_imports/316_8499_2017-04-18_5349.png)
Is this what u mean? $115. I'd like to figure out the cheapest option.
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(http://forums.trx250r.org/vbulletin_imports/316_8499_2017-04-18_2301.png)
Is this what u mean? $115. I'd like to figure out the cheapest option.
I'll pop the one off my 400ex for you to try.
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(http://forums.trx250r.org/vbulletin_imports/316_8500_2017-04-18_1365.png)
I didn't see this on the website. What brake stay is this? What does it take to get this to work? Might be the way to go if that's all I have to buy.
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(http://forums.trx250r.org/vbulletin_imports/316_8500_2017-04-18_9399.png)
I didn't see this on the website. What brake stay is this? What does it take to get this to work? Might be the way to go if that's all I have to buy.
Call Ceurvos racing they do custom stuff.
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(http://forums.trx250r.org/vbulletin_imports/316_8501_2017-04-18_9641.jpg)
(http://forums.trx250r.org/vbulletin_imports/316_8502_2017-04-18_5636.jpg)
I'm gonna try to get the caliper on and see how much chain adjustment I have. I'm gonna have to shave down the head of a bolt and shave down a wrench too.
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Michael, that is the caliper. if you look at the race tech site they have a drawing showing all dimensions so you know the proper bolt centers.
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I was able to get the caliper on after shaving a bolt head down to 3/16" thick and finding a slim 13mm wrench. It looks like there will be plenty of chain adjustment. Still not thrilled with the quality of this swingarm, but I think it's gonna work.
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instead of shaving the bolt head . could you put a stud in or cut the head of that bolt off an weld it an drill the caliper threw an use a nut on the outside .
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I was able to get the caliper on after shaving a bolt head down to 3/16" thick and finding a slim 13mm wrench. It looks like there will be plenty of chain adjustment. Still not thrilled with the quality of this swingarm, but I think it's gonna work.
Might look for a button or flat top Allen bolt
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Might look for a button or flat top Allen bolt
great idea jared.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-rounded-head-screws/=1665ybz
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The bolt has to go in from the back side which is right next to the swingarm. There is no way to get an Allen wrench in there. See pics above. Thanks for the suggestions.
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Welding a stud to brake stay an drill the threads out of caliper mount not a option probably a bad option it will make it a pain in the but to take caliper off /on. better idea weld nut to brake stay , drill out threads for caliper mount and bolt to brake stay.
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You paid good money for the product that's supposed to fit send it back and have it fixed.
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better idea weld nut to brake stay , drill out threads for caliper mount and bolt to brake stay.
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to expand on smith's better suggestion.
open up the caliper hole and tap the brake stay bracket. better yet, tap it and install a steel insert (helicoil) so you don't need to worry about the threaded aluminum hole shearing off the threads.
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That's what I would have like to do but I already spent $180 on pc. I think they actually put the pin in the correct spot, it's just way this thing is made makes it difficult. The gullwing bend and the tapered tubing. Koq said they were mostly using 400ex stuff on hybrids back when I bought this one.
Wish I could have found a roll design. On a positive note, it looks like the airbox won't be too big of an issue. The shock is as far forward as it can go which helps the airbox clearance.
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I will see how much room is on the back side of the caliper for a nut but I think what I've got will be fine. Thanks again for the suggestions.
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Ya he needs to work on this thing. But his geometry is the real deal. I had to have my pin relocated for my second one. fixed the issue you spoke of with the clearance.
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Ya he needs to work on this thing. But his geometry is the real deal. I had to have my pin relocated for my second one. fixed the issue you spoke of with the clearance.
maybe kyle answered the question. cut off the pin that is poorly located and either weld a new pin on or drill and tap and install a pin in an acceptable location.
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i was hoping it was just mine since i was his first 86 one he has done. but this thing runs nearly as smooth as my CR500 link. That said i twisted my first one in my first race. He rebuilt it with heavier wall, and i havent bent it, but my powder did stress in some points. i will beat it hard this year and we will really see
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i was hoping it was just mine since i was his first 86 one he has done. but this thing runs nearly as smooth as my CR500 link. That said i twisted my first one in my first race. He rebuilt it with heavier wall, and i havent bent it, but my powder did stress in some points. i will beat it hard this year and we will really see
kyle, do you still do MX or do you race XC now? this might better explain the conditions your machine is accustomed to.
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This was on my XC bike that it bent. No jumping or hard hitting when i twisted it. IT was built lite for MX, i noticed when i got it, it was very light compared to my LSR.
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Bump for Tom to find. I talked to him about this today and he said all new ones are being built with the location pin like mine.
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I've been lazy lately. Haven't made any progress.
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I’m a year late, but I finally got er’ done. Ready to ride thanksgiving weekend.
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Need to clean it up and get er’ out in the sun for some better pics
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I was going to update this thread but it looks like nobody cares. Check out the other R site for updates.
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We all would like to see some updates on you build. Just alot of stuff going on for people right now.
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yes please lets see some pics and a ride report would be great to read. you could enter the QOTM also
thanks
Joe
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There is a pulse here! A bit of a long story. First ride didn’t go so well. I made two short rides but I couldn’t keep the chain tight. It felt good through some whoops, but it was literally two 5 minute rides. So I sent the swingarm back to Koq for re-work. He added two more pinch bolts and moved the brake pin to a better position. In the meantime I ordered and received a new Roll Design no-link swingarm. IT’S AWESOME!!! Got er all mounted up and ready for Glamis on the 10th. Jim from Motowoz said my shock will work good for now and he can mod it for $200 to make it perfect. I had been wanting a Roll swingarm for 15 years. Now I have one!!!
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Good to here you are getting it to were you want it to be. I would definitely say enter it for QOTM
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Pics
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Another
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Looks very good. I thought with other no link stuff you had to move upper shock mount. I know koq doesn't require that
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Nice build I was at dumont for thanksgiving myself
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very NICE!!!!
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after reviewing this i might go no-link, seeing as i have the same swingarm.
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So Roll is making gull-wing swing-arms again? Did you ditch the KOQ and go with the Roll?
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I haven’t been on here in awhile. Yes. Roll Design took deposits and made a run of lobo swingarms. I went with the Roll Design. I’m going to sell the Koq. Just been lazy. I need to strip the PC so the buyer can go with their choice of color.