TRX250R.ORG
Workshop => Engine and Bottom End => Topic started by: Chewy on September 08, 2013, 03:47:21 PM
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My quad has been sitting for about 8 years and I can't get it running? Had WD-40 coating the cylinder to avoid corrosion. Cleaned the gas tank & carb. Kicked it over (choke on) and it ran fine. About 30 seconds later it started revving high so I gassed it a bit for it to come down. Didn't help so I turned the choke off and it died out. Tried like heck to get it started again and nothing. Took the carb off again to check things out, put it back on and still nothing. I haven't checked for spark yet. Anyone have advice on what I can try next? I doubt I have an electrical problem if it originally started? It's an 86 with a LRD 330 motor.
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try a little gas in the cylinder with a new spark plug, or a little starting fluid, if it wants to run for a bit take the carb apart and clean again
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sounds to me like the pilot jet is restricted causing lean condition.
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sounds to me like the pilot jet is restricted causing lean condition.
I once had clogged pilot jet and it ran way too rich. Not trying to say you are wrong, I am just wondering if that lean condition is a symptom of a clogged pilot jet.
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I once had clogged pilot jet and it ran way too rich. Not trying to say you are wrong, I am just wondering if that lean condition is a symptom of a clogged pilot jet.
I agree with clogged pilot and clogged pilot
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I once had clogged pilot jet and it ran way too rich. Not trying to say you are wrong, I am just wondering if that lean condition is a symptom of a clogged pilot jet.
If the fuel is restricted and there is not enough fuel then to me that creates a lean condition almost like running out of fuel.
I agree with clogged pilot and clogged pilot
Im assuming that your agreeing that it can cause both conditions??
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If the fuel is restricted and there is not enough fuel then to me that creates a lean condition almost like running out of fuel.
Im assuming that your agreeing that it can cause both conditions??
agreeing with you and messin with tony
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after rereading the op ,the float might be gummed up and stuck in the closed position .before pulling carb remove drain nut and confirm the bowl has fuel in it
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Thanks for the suggestions!
try a little gas in the cylinder with a new spark plug, or a little starting fluid, if it wants to run for a bit take the carb apart and clean again
Will try this for sure. I think I'm running a BR8ES plug. Is that a good plug for a 330 motor? What gap? It's been so long since I followed this stuff and can't remember all the little details.
after rereading the op ,the float might be gummed up and stuck in the closed position .before pulling carb remove drain nut and confirm the bowl has fuel in it
I will also check the drain nut to check for fuel.
I took the carb apart at 1st and there wasn't any gook in there. Took the pin out and disconnected the float. I had left a little bit of gas in the tank (5 years) and it was super nasty looking. I drained it and washed it out, then refilled before ever trying to start it.
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you need to remove the air jet screw, pilot jet,main jet and spray down every orfice, especially the smaller ones, they are the easiest to clog up with gum from old gas.
8 plug is fine close the gap to .018, stock ignition do not have allot of power
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Ok, here's the update.....(I need more help please)
Put in a new plug (BR8ES @ .020) - old plug was wet & black
Completely cleaned the entire carb -no build up noted
*Attempted to start it.....nada (with the choke on & off)
*Kept trying - nothing
*Sprayed starter fluid......nothing (multiple times)
*Pulled the new plug and it was completely clean
Checked for spark by connecting the plug to the wire and grounding it on the head.......NO SPARK??????
What is the next thing I need to do???
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I wouldnt use starting fluid to try and start your machine. Theres other issues if its not starting on your mixed gas. No lubricant in starting fluid will not treat things well especially if its starts with a lot in there. Keep looking. check make sure mice havent chewed wires, make sure all your kill/tether switches are operating properly. I cant see electrical components going bad from just sitting unless it was subjected to a lot of moisture. Mine sat for a while and I had a pilot jet partially plugged and actually oil in the gas tank from the fuel evaporating leaving only oil behind. An R just doesnt like to sit still!!
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It's actually been sitting in a moist garage for the last 2 years here in Michigan. Prior to that it sat for 7 years in a garage in Florida. I rinsed it off a few times to get the dust off of it, but never started it. Haven't ridden it since 2004.
I actually checked all the connections. Everything seems fine. With it not having spark, what is the next thing I should consider replacing? Ignition / CDI / On-Off switch??
Want to go riding next weekend and this has obviously put a major damper on things.
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Unplug the kill switch, check the wire connections, unplug and plug them a few times along with taking a scotchbrite pad to the male ends.
it is very hard to see the spark on a 250r so maybe have the wife hold the end of the wire while you kick it and if she screams you are good on the cdi :congratulatory: Haha please don't do that!
you could also try pull starting the quad also, it will spin the motor much faster
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well I would take the On-Off switch apart to make sure thats not all corroded (dont cost anything), The coil would be the cheapest to replace in electricals an oem one will run ya about $50. When you cleaned the carb did you pull the jets out and make sure you can see through them. I realize its not related to your no spark issue but its important they are clean before you fire up. Mine only sat for about 1 year and my pilot you could barely see through it from the old gas gunk.
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I think its worth mentioning that you may not see spark if you are kicking it over by hand while holding the spark plug with the other .I have seen a lot of people work on ign that were not broke .got agree with phantom on not using starting fluid. you might try pulling the stater cover and seeing if its full of water
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Pull the flywheel and clean the stator and flywheel contacts as well as clean and set gap on the pulse coil.
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UPDATE:
Removed, cleaned & lubricated all the electrical contacts with compressed air & WD40. Including ON/OFF switch. Cleaned some contacts with steel wool. There wasn't anything corroded btw.
Pulled my spark arrester and made sure it was clean.
Again made sure that gas was getting to the carb.
Kicked it a bunch of times.....NOTHING!
What's next????? Want to go riding next weekend!!!:miserable::miserable::miserable:
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UPDATE:
Removed, cleaned & lubricated all the electrical contacts with compressed air & WD40. Including ON/OFF switch. Cleaned some contacts with steel wool. There wasn't anything corroded btw.
Pulled my spark arrester and made sure it was clean.
Again made sure that gas was getting to the carb.
Kicked it a bunch of times.....NOTHING!
What's next????? Want to go riding next weekend!!!:miserable::miserable::miserable:
when you say you checked and cleaned all connections does this include your plug boot? its a good idea to redo that connection after a couple time taking apart, just trim about a 1/4 inch off the end and reattach the boot,,,
prior to reattaching check if you have spark without boot installed,
on your connectors look real good at the white connector housings, if they look discolored or distorted that means you have a poor connection at the wire going on the pin ..use a flash light and look through the connectors to make sure they are not getting hot from high resistance
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after half a can of starting fluid that might of been a clue to get a multimeter and check a few things
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UPDATE:
Removed, cleaned & lubricated all the electrical contacts with compressed air & WD40. Including ON/OFF switch. Cleaned some contacts with steel wool. There wasn't anything corroded btw.
Pulled my spark arrester and made sure it was clean.
Again made sure that gas was getting to the carb.
Kicked it a bunch of times.....NOTHING!
What's next????? Want to go riding next weekend!!!:miserable::miserable::miserable:
I just had to replace my stator because of a no spark issue. My broken stator was reading 197ohms. I believe you need to be in the 150-170 ohms range. The good working coil was reading 4ohms. Someone else on here can probably tell you exactly what the stator should read.
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I thought it was 50 to 250 at 68 degrees. testing the red/black wire coming off the stator to ground
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I thought it was 50 to 250 at 68 degrees. testing the red/black wire coming off the stator to ground
That may be so. My issue was "no spark". I read across the red and black leads coming from the stator. It read 197 ohms. I replaced it with a stator that read 166 ohms and I had spark.
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That may be so. My issue was "no spark". I read across the red and black leads coming from the stator. It read 197 ohms. I replaced it with a stator that read 166 ohms and I had spark.
..................I just looked in the Honda manual and what I said was correct.cant argue with your success with your repair.I have had them test good and be bad ,but the two I have seen do this would run but acted like the jetting was all jacked up.on both you could see the varnish flaking off the windings
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Did you check the ground by the upper left radiator mount?...green wire I think. When I bought my 88 that is what was wrong with it...no spark. Make sure there is no paint or corrosion there at all.