TRX250R.ORG
Workshop => Suspension and Chassis => Topic started by: trx88 on September 09, 2013, 09:42:11 AM
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I need these shocks rebuilt.
I dont want to pay 450 dollars either.
I know they are works, but can anyone tell me any more about these? How do these shocks compare to oem 450r shocks?
How much would it cost to send them back to works and have them worked?
Thanks for any info!
:gorilla:
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Well figure its probly going to cost around $100-$120 for a rebuild,another $40ish for seal kit and probly another $20-$40 for new rubber bumpers. If theres issues with a shaft theres another $100,or anything else internally cost will go up. If they need setup for you and another $40 to the rebuild price.
IMO if you get a set of 450r shocks,you definitely want/need to have them setup for you and your combination,however it would be well worth it in the end. The 450r shocks will far out perform the Works.
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Thank you for your reply sir. I can score some 450r fronts on the bay for a bit over a hundo. Those works are so beat to shit ANYTHING would be better.
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No prob,what arms arms are you using? Any good shock builder can set up the 450 shocks, Maul Tech Atv,Gt Thunder, our sponsor Eschonda.
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Just bought some chrome a arms from derby they are oem size and travel lsr
i have too tech rear shock on a cr500 and i really really like it.. but maybe im just not used to an actual functioning shock hahahaha
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I had some Works shocks that were beat to hell also. I had Evan at Schmidty Racing (Eschonda on here) rebuild them. He made them look and perform like they were brand new. You should talk to him and see what he recommends.
This is what my shocks looked like before:
(http://i41.tinypic.com/w8mg75.jpg)
This is how they look now:
(http://i42.tinypic.com/16k6z4h.jpg)
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I dont know if i can afford his work at this point.
I was looking at a set of standard travel works on ebay that he did just yesterday.
not a bad deal actually
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I had some Works shocks that were beat to hell also. I had Evan at Schmidty Racing (Eschonda on here) rebuild them. He made them look and perform like they were brand new. You should talk to him and see what he recommends.
This is what my shocks looked like before:
(http://i41.tinypic.com/w8mg75.jpg)
This is how they look now:
(http://i42.tinypic.com/16k6z4h.jpg)
They look better than new. Looking at getting my PEPs done soon. What did it cost you?
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Works shocks are not hard to rebuild yourself and do not require special tools, only an eye for detail. I did my ressy fronts for around 130 myself.
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how did you recharge them
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I have done plenty of the FOX shocks and a few marvin shaws and they are not hard at all to do.
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how did you recharge them
there is a tool needed to fill with nitrogen
.you should not use air. cheapest way is to have a shock guy fill them when your done servicing. I have done my own for the last 25 years and like the fact that I know there done right. If these shocks are not sprung for you ,you should use someone like evan at schmidty to help you get dialed in
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how did you recharge them
Local Yamaha shop charged 10$ per shock. Make sure whoever charges your shop has a rig that will go 180+ psi nitrogen. Works are a bit higher pressure than factory shocks. I bought the seal kit and fluid right from works. Even powder coated springs. It was pretty straight forward with works instructions. One thing the instructions do not tell is small balls go in small holes in case you get things mixed up on disassembly. The washers are actually concave so they go in a certain direction as well.
(http://i1238.photobucket.com/albums/ff493/maxxh2o/64A18C87-9D7E-4A66-B2BD-BD9592FFB661-823-000000995C2A9EF8_zpsa1c9d152.jpg)
I was a dumbass and rushed when i put the rear back in, forgot one of the linkage wishbones. Shaft snapped before I even got my leg all the way over the bike. That was a 80$ mistake. If you can rebuild yourself, works will always carry parts your shock will last forever. The blue came out darker than the works blue.
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this is what I use on Marvin Shaws
(http://msshocks.com/images/fillsys3.jpg)this is what I use on fox shocks hooked to a regulator
(http://www.kartek.com/Media/Images/Large/FOX-80201000A_fillValveBumpStop_1.jpg) (http://trx250r.org/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=fox%20skock%20nitrogen%20fill&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&docid=wXtYbYdq52n4FM&tbnid=Sj4EpBsKSxIfgM:&ved=0CAUQjRw&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.kartek.com%2FProduct%2F676%2FNitrogen-Safety-Fill-Needle.aspx&ei=1a0vUqqXLKWzyAGmhoDIBw&bvm=bv.51773540,d.aWc&psig=AFQjCNFz8ps13u7VKYpQ8qIS3G3DTEZ6Aw&ust=1378942795701611)
this is another version of the marvin shaw fill kit that works on any typical schrader valve setup
(http://i.ebayimg.com/00/$(KGrHqUOKpQE1qfIYeKuBNiqC)cgM!~~_35.JPG?set_id=8800005007)
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I am enjoying this thread
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They look better than new. Looking at getting my PEPs done soon. What did it cost you?
I bought the shocks used and the seller lied to me about a lot of things such as what they were set up for. So I had to pay for some replacement parts that I wasn't planning on buying, which increased the cost. I'm not entirely sure what the rebuild would've cost without all the extra parts. You can ask Evan though, I'm sure he would be happy to answer any questions you've got.
I am really liking this thread though. There's a ton of good info here!
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Well figure its probly going to cost around $100-$120 for a rebuild,another $40ish for seal kit and probly another $20-$40 for new rubber bumpers. If theres issues with a shaft theres another $100,or anything else internally cost will go up. If they need setup for you and another $40 to the rebuild price.
IMO if you get a set of 450r shocks,you definitely want/need to have them setup for you and your combination,however it would be well worth it in the end. The 450r shocks will far out perform the Works.
Fairly accurate info here^^^.. A rebuild including seals and o-rings is $170. New bumpers if needed are $20 a piece. (from what I see is only about 20% of the time). powder-coating , chroming, adding rezzy's, revalve and respring are all options, and price goes up from there.. If your shocks are dialed, and you just need a rebuild and want to do it your self. I have rebuild kits, as well as all styles and price points for Nitrogen tools, regulators ect.. listed on my ebay store right now, (soon to be on website)http://stores.ebay.com/SCHMIDTY-RACING-SUSPEN-559-804-0818 (http://stores.ebay.com/SCHMIDTY-RACING-SUSPEN-559-804-0818)
Also adding rezzy's to emulsions will up perfomance dramatically. Adding adjustable comp rezzy's adds flexibility to vary shock performance/characteristics from the day you want to play ride, to the weekend you want to go hit the mx track.
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This is what ive gathered:
I dont know what weight springs are on these. I think works shocks springs are about 100 bucks each right? I cant just rebuild these without re springing them for my weight...
Correct? Probably the same or more for new springs on 450r shocks. At least going dual rate even more $ on that..
I can buy a set of 450r shocks that honda set up for "everyone". $250
I can rebuild my steelers at well over 100 a spring, cause they are dual rate.. plus the guts. minimum $350- 400. Easily.
I can buy a new set of steelers for $500.
I can rebuild the shocks I have on the cheap and go on the rest of my life never knowing what proper shocks feel like on 4 wheels....
AHHHHHH!
Then theirs the oem rear that I love so much
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Works springs do not cost a $100 a piece, whereever you got that price is taking you for a ride.. depending of what you have, on there, and what arm you end up using will determine final spring rate needed..and what you have pictured are triple rate. (3) springs per shock.. And actually we can make the OEM rear shock perform very well..I wouldn't say I would go race at the National level with it.. But for the average guy on a budget, we get pretty close to, and in some cases exceed aftermarket shock performance for around 1/2 or less their cost.. We can also do custom polishing,chroming and powdercoating as well for a very reasonable price..
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the works website?
i thought the spring and rate had more to do with rider weight
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the shocks that I have pictured at the very top are the works i have, theyre dual rate.. and if i dont have to get different springs, and all i have to do is take them apart and re assemble with new parts then fill with oil and have them charged than id like to do it my self.. but ill need some helps. i want to go that route so that i know how to do it also.
do i dis assemble then determine parts or gather parts then go go
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the shocks that I have pictured at the very top are the works i have, theyre dual rate.. and if i dont have to get different springs, and all i have to do is take them apart and re assemble with new parts then fill with oil and have them charged than id like to do it my self.. but ill need some helps. i want to go that route so that i know how to do it also.
do i dis assemble then determine parts or gather parts then go go
If you are referring to the picture , with a pair of very blown, Works performance emulsion shocks, with blue main springs, and white tender springs laying next to a red a-arm, they are triple rate.. (3 springs per shock) There are (2) white tender springs per shock, and one (blue) mainspring.. To get them sprung correctly, you'd need to know a lot more than just rider weight.. A-arm width, type of riding you are doing, tire size, height and weight, skill level etc., all come in to play.... Also, there's a lot more to it than even just getting the spring rate correct. Piston port sizes, check valve backup spring rates, crossover collar ring gaps, etc all need to be set correctly for the shock to perform right, for your custom set-up.. If you have never done it, I can guarantee you will not be satisfied with the end result.. Like I said ealier, once they are dialed in, and you want to just do a service, the mechanically inclined guy with some basic tools can do it.. Revalving and respringing a set for your application, and not knowing what you are doing will net you lackluster or disapointing results.. Even if you don't want to send them to me, send them to a reputable suspension shop.. Honestly most customers say that after I have reworked their works shocks, they work better than they ever did new from Works. Sometimes the addage is true, that you get what you pay for...Just say'n..Evan @ SRS
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the correct springs is the starting point of the correct setup.believe it or not the springs handle the biggest part of compression damping most of the work for the shock is controlling rebound.If you don't have the correct springs for your setup you are tuning around the springs and it will never be as good as it could be
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Couldnt agree more with whats been said. Ive had those works for 4 years and never knew there were two soft springs per shock.
I know from reading around that there is a full blown science to suspension. I also know that from working my trucks suspension.
If the shocks ever go anywhere, your welcomed to do the work.
I completely agree that even if I could get them rebuilt at home, its pointless unless they have the springs "etc." I need.
As for riding skills I have zero. hahahahahahah
Like I said, theyre yours if you want the work.
How long does it take?
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the correct springs is the starting point of the correct setup.believe it or not the springs handle the biggest part of compression damping most of the work for the shock is controlling rebound.If you don't have the correct springs for your setup you are tuning around the springs and it will never be as good as it could be
Right the springs are the brute in the situation, the guts control fluid compression/rebound. The combination works together to eliminate discomfort.
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Couldnt agree more with whats been said. Ive had those works for 4 years and never knew there were two soft springs per shock.
I know from reading around that there is a full blown science to suspension. I also know that from working my trucks suspension.
If the shocks ever go anywhere, your welcomed to do the work.
I completely agree that even if I could get them rebuilt at home, its pointless unless they have the springs "etc." I need.
As for riding skills I have zero. hahahahahahah
Like I said, theyre yours if you want the work.
How long does it take?
It would depend on a couple of variables.. A normal rebuild would take a day, or two at most from when I received them. If you end up needing some springs, I stock a number of them. If I needed to order some, then it would be probably 3-4 days.. If you want powdercoating done, figure 7-10 days..
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I have a set that I just got in. I am cleaning, them and getting ready to rebuild them shortly.. I can set up them as emulsions,remote non-adjust, or remotes with big body adjustable clickers. and also with works piston, or TCS shim-syle piston.. Lots of options, and price points.. ZPS or standard triple rate..If anyone is interested, I can set them up for your application..
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If you dont mind me asking,whats it typically cost for the big cans?
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How bjg are big cans compaired to others?
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both are shown in anodized, but can do them in mill finish as well for a few $ less.the pic showing the full shocks with small non adjust rezzy's are the style shocks I have.. They are the pro-series with a billet cap on top..
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I have a set that I just got in. I am cleaning, them and getting ready to rebuild them shortly.. I can set up them as emulsions,remote non-adjust, or remotes with big body adjustable clickers. and also with works piston, or TCS shim-syle piston.. Lots of options, and price points.. ZPS or standard triple rate..If anyone is interested, I can set them up for your application..
Theres just about nothing in this paragraph that I am familiar with.
Emulsions
Remote non adjust
Remote big body clickers, That kind of like my rear oem with a dial resi? or a "big can"
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Theres just about nothing in this paragraph that I am familiar with.
Emulsions
Remote non adjust
Remote big body clickers, That kind of like my rear oem with a dial resi? or a "big can"
If I'm not mistaken I think emulsion is the type of shock you have pictured (with no reservoir). Remote non adjust is what Maxxh20 has pictured. And Remote big body clickers is what Evan and I have pictured.
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Your pretty well right,
Emulsions have gas/oil mixed in the same resivoir and fight against the same piston with the spring.
Resivouirs have a piston in the can and n2 on one side and oil on the other.
adjustable resi's probably have a more advanced piston between the gas and the oil.. not sure though..
resivouirs are better for longer and harder riding and probably overall life of the shock.
i think anyways
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some rezzys have bladders and others have pistons,they both accomplish the same thing .the adjuster is a needle and orifice and it regulates the oil that comes back in the rezzy as the shock piston travels upward.in my opinion its a worthless adjustment. when a shock guy gets you dialed in ,the adjuster will be on its lowest settings