TRX250R.ORG
Workshop => Engine and Bottom End => Topic started by: zcarlson12 on November 18, 2013, 06:38:28 PM
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I bought a brand new set of ASI hoses a while back, put them on and had no issues with fitment or overheating. Started reading about how critical engine temperature is and the problems that can arise if you don't catch overheating soon enough. I am getting a ESR temp gauge soon and already bought a Pro Design super cooler but in the directions for the super cooler it says only put in the hot water return line. How do you guys run a temp gauge and cooler on your R's? It looks like both will fit on the hose coming from the head to the top inlet on the radiator but I was curious to see what other people were doing as far as setup.I've never had a problem with overheating but than again I've never had a gauge to see what the actual temperature is. If anyone has pictures that would help a lot as well, thanks.
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I plan on doing this as well, I hope some pics and good info gets posted.
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you want the temp gauge in the line where water exits the engine. most hondas im aware of its the head. cant help you on the super cooler thing cuz i have no idea what it even is. never hurts to have a fan if you got the power to run it. anything to keep the cylinder colder especially on a cylinder reed where its more exposed to combustion heat. hot air aint good for power
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Sorry if that was hard to understand. I know that the line coming off the head going to the top inlet is where the hot water return is I'm just asking if anyone had any tips or pictures of how they had ran the line with a temp gauge and billet cooling insert. You wouldn't want to put the insert before the temp gauge because that would alter the reading I would think.
udkm- this is what it looks like
(http://i43.tinypic.com/200e5b5.jpg)
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I'd say ditch the inline cooler and install the temp gauge in the upper hose
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Wes- Noted
Anyone else have any input on this?
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I would put the temp guage where the coolant returns to the head and I have seen many inline coolers installed on the outlet side. I hope this helps.
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inline coolers are useless IMO.
ive seen temp gauges used in both locations.
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Put the gauge in the upper rad hose coming out of the head. Engine Ice or a similier brand coolant will be more benificial than an inline cooler
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Jamie- That's what I figured I just wasn't sure if you could put in on the inlet side because it says otherwise in the directions.
atv fan- I agree it might not be a huge drop in temperature but I got it for $10 shipped brand new so I figured I might as well use it.
05- Thanks will do. I already put a high pressure cap on and use Liquid Performance coolant so I guess I'll just put this in the parts pile and see what temps I'm running with the new gauge installed.
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I've seen most temp gauges ran from head to rad on the top hose
I've seen some from the waterpump to head with certain pipes ,I know with my 9 pipe it would be a tight fit
When I had a temp gauge I ran it from the rad to waterpump,probably not the best spot ,but it made it easy to look down and see real quick when duning and drag racing
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My temp gauge is on thr hose to the waterpump and my inline cooler is on the top hose going to the head
(http://i996.photobucket.com/albums/af82/bigredrx7/20131002_191600_zps141c6dc1.jpg) (http://s996.photobucket.com/user/bigredrx7/media/20131002_191600_zps141c6dc1.jpg.html)
(http://i996.photobucket.com/albums/af82/bigredrx7/20131002_191614_zpsdf6628b6.jpg) (http://s996.photobucket.com/user/bigredrx7/media/20131002_191614_zpsdf6628b6.jpg.html)
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Nice! That's what I was looking for, a couple pictures. Thanks for everyone's input.
Side note- Bigred, you putting a case saver on that R? I've never thrown a chain, knock on wood, but it does happen. I'd hate to see that nice rebuild be put back on the rack to fix the cases.
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The only problem with putting the temp gauge on the bottom hose is that you don't know what your true running temp is. If placed in the top hose, you know the temp of the coolant coming right out of the engine which is the most important.
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^^^Exactly^^^^
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You can do either hose. The temp isn't much different from one location to the next, maybe a couple degrees but my enough to matter. My personal opinion is it's better to know the temp going to the motor rather then leaving, because say for example the temp hits 200 coming out of your radiator well after it travels through your motor it's prob going to be a little hotter right??? But like I said it's only a few degrees so it really doesn't make much difference. If you melt your motor down with a gauge installed then you weren't watching it close enough anyways. Here's my setup with Afco radiator
(http://i1222.photobucket.com/albums/dd493/jakes2c/46B0FF31-A4F8-4E8D-9415-A64317E6DF3B-2875-000005975659BFFD_zps35b1030e.jpg)
(http://i1222.photobucket.com/albums/dd493/jakes2c/26A7FF8A-28C6-46C1-8866-1CD2A9AE773D-2875-000005974098AB5D_zps1be5296d.jpg)
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Grande Huevos, while I see what you are saying, I have to respectfully disagree. If you see the temp of the coolant coming right out of the motor than you could react quickly if need be to severe overheating. The coolant in the radiator is not cycling that fast, so by the time it comes through the bottom hose and you see it on your temp gauge, the engine temp condition coming out of the motor could have already changed drastically. Plus, if you only are checking the bottom hose temp, then you can only guess as to what the temp coming out of the motor is, not actually know. There is and should be a temperature difference between the top and bottom hose temp and it should be more than a few degrees(as much as 25-30° lower). If not then the radiator isn't doing much.
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not trying to argue but i dont see their being a 25-30 degree difference in the two hoses. Someone should put 2 gauges on and see what the difference really is.
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not trying to argue but i dont see their being a 25-30 degree difference in the two hoses. Someone should put 2 gauges on and see what the difference really is.
a simple temp gun would do the trick
depending on air temp compared to engine temp it would be different
a cold day would remove more heat then a warm day
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I say 20 degrees average, lets take a poll..lol
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geez if its only couple degrees different from where it enters and exits then just throw the rad in the trash and save bunch of weight. i remeber some time back i was working on my truck and happen to notice the top hose is hot as hell and bottom was alot colder. should be no different for a bike provided theres air moving through the rad
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Truck u have more than one cylinder lol
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Ya it has a case save was bolting everything on when the pics were taken
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geez if its only couple degrees different from where it enters and exits then just throw the rad in the trash and save bunch of weight. i remeber some time back i was working on my truck and happen to notice the top hose is hot as hell and bottom was alot colder. should be no different for a bike provided theres air moving through the rad
Agreed^^^
I realize there are different factors involved with a truck, but it brings up a good point. Every piece of equipment that I know of that monitors water temp does so with the sensor inline with the water coming out of the motor, cars, trucks, offroad equipment, atvs, drag racers, dirt track racers, let's just say any race vehicle.
I'm not saying you CAN'T monitor water temp from the water going into the motor, I am simply saying I don't believe it to be the most accurate or beneficial way to do so.
Wayne, honestly the 25-30° was just a guesstimate and was maybe a bit high. It has been a while since I measured the inlet and outlet temps on my R, and I don't remember the numbers. There are variables involved that would change the numbers a bit (fin shape, fins per inch, numbers of rows, air volume, coolant flow rate), but I would think an R should be averaging atleast a 10° temp difference between motor inlet and outlet. While I hate to throw out a number before getting a chance to measure it again, the point I was trying to make is that I think there is enough difference between the inlet and outlet temps that would make you want to measure the most severe/critical one.