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Site Sponsors => LED Performance => Topic started by: ledperformance on January 25, 2014, 03:30:20 PM
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I get a lot of calls from people who want to mismatch a cylinder designed to work with the stock stroke to a stroker crank. The first problem with that is cylinder length. The cylinder is too short for the increased stroke resulting in the piston coming out the top of the cylinder. Of course these engine building geniuses have an answer for that problem. The obvious answer is to put a spacer plate under the cylinder. This creates the next problem, port timing. Increasing the stroke increases the port timing and because of rod angularly it increases transfer timing more than the exhaust timing. Even if you can space the cylinder to get a reasonable exhaust port timing, the transfer timing will be way too radical for good performance. The third problem is the port floors need to be dropped so the floor matches the top of the piston at bottom of its stroke. That is not usually a problem for the exhaust port. It is a problem for transfer ports. In most cases the port window too tall in proportion to the area of the rest of the port. This causes scavenging problems in the cylinder. It is important that the transfer streams attach to the top of the piston and travel to the rear cylinder wall in a coherent column. When the window is out of proportion to the duct, the streams become disorganized and turbulent. This causes charge impurity and charge loss out of the exhaust port. This will cause the engine to perform poorly in the low end and midrange part of the power band. So you have a peaky engine that is down on power.
The fourth problem is the combustion chamber shape. Any engine that employs a bore able cast iron liner needs the combustion chamber machined larger than the bore. This is so the piston does not hit the head after being bored to the last over size. If the piston is coming out the top of the cylinder the chamber must be machined so the piston does not touch the sides of the step in the chamber as well as not hitting the squish band. This means a lot of volume around the outside edge of the chamber at top dead center. This destroys the important function of the squish band. The squish band not only imports motion to the fuel charge, it also dissipates heat out of the end gases of the combustion process. This is very important because if the end gasses over heat, they explode rather than burn. That is what we refer to as detonation, and it destroys engines.
If you wish to build a stroker engine use cylinders that are designed for stroker crankshafts. Sphinx and Puma cylinders a available to work perfectly with stroker cranks. If you insist on using the stock stroke cylinder, the cylinder can be lengthened with a longer sleeve and a spacer plate for the top of the cylinder. This allows me to correct the port timings and shapes. It also allows for proper combustion chamber shape.
I hope this clears up any misunderstanding about 2 stroke stroker engine combinations.
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As usual Arlen, explanation received!
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I knew there was big problems but wow, now I know it sounds like more of a hassle to build a stock stroke cylinder to a stroker . Probly cheaper just to go with a cylinder that's already ready for the stroker crank
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Arlan this would make an excellent sticky if you want to post this in the Cylinder/Head section of the Technical Section.
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Thanks will do.
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Great read thanks for sharing.
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I wish I would have learned this 6 months ago, I'm still trying to decide what to do with my motor. Thanks for the explaination Arlen.
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theres also risk of the skirt going above the exh floor and hitting the crank wheels
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Its not that you can't use other cylinders. The point is if you have the correct combustion chamber shape, and the correct porting the engine will make a lot more power. I don't care what anyone else does, nor do I care who agrees with me. I am explaining why I am not interested in building an Engine that is not put together correctly and sharing the results of our research.
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i dont see nobody causin trouble . i was just adding to what arlan said. if a stroker crank is used in a standard cylinder you may experience the piston skirt going above the exh port floor and possibly getting real close to hitting the crank wheels or cases. it all depends on what engine your dealing with. ive never put a stroked crank with a standard cylinder but if you do theres alot of things you have to watch out for
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i didnt see the deleted stuff. thought you said i was causing trouble since i was the last to post. it makes sense now :chuncky:
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i dont see nobody causin trouble . i was just adding to what arlan said. if a stroker crank is used in a standard cylinder you may experience the piston skirt going above the exh port floor and possibly getting real close to hitting the crank wheels or cases. it all depends on what engine your dealing with. ive never put a stroked crank with a standard cylinder but if you do theres alot of things you have to watch out for
udontknowme, the moderator was not referring to your post.
You have a very valid point. Stroker engines require checking skirt to flywheel clearance. If to much skirt is removed to clear the flywheels, the floor of the exhaust port could be exposed when the piston is at tdc. This opens the crankcase to the exhaust pipe. Not really an ideal situation.
Thanks for pointing out an important point I did not cover in my post.
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top notch info like always ,thanks
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Thanks for the info!
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thanks ,love seeing you post on here.You are one of the things or people that make this a great forum
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Its not that you can't use other cylinders. The point is if you have the correct combustion chamber shape, and the correct porting the engine will make a lot more power. I don't care what anyone else does, nor do I care who agrees with me. I am explaining why I am not interested in building an Engine that is not put together correctly and sharing the results of our research.
Hi Arlen,
Would it make sense to make a specific SLEEVE for the +4mm Stroke ?....That way the Port timing and Port Areas would be perfect for the increased Stroke :)
I did that to a motor I built a few years ago for a 72mm Bore kit on an OEM Cylinder and it worked really well. The Roofs & floors of the ports were where they should be.
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Its not that you can't use other cylinders. The point is if you have the correct combustion chamber shape, and the correct porting the engine will make a lot more power. I don't care what anyone else does, nor do I care who agrees with me. I am explaining why I am not interested in building an Engine that is not put together correctly and sharing the results of our research.
well spoken. this is one of the reasons why you are a top tier builder.
john
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In the days before we had cylinders set for stroker cranks we lengthened the cylinders by running the top flange of the sleeve above the top of the cylinder. We then made a top spacer plate to lengthen the block as well. In some most cases we lowered the the transfer roofs with lower port heights in the sleeve and reshaped the roof of the port with epoxy. That allowed us to increase the stoke up to 80 mm. The cost is high however because of the amount of labor required.
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So is the CPI cylinder your only recomendation for a stoker? Are other off the shelf cylinders good canidates as well?
Thank you
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Both 85mm Puma and 78mm Sphinx come in length appropriate for the 76mm (plus4) crankshafts.
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So is the CPI cylinder your only recomendation for a stoker? Are other off the shelf cylinders good canidates as well?
Thank you
Both 85mm Puma and 78mm Sphinx come in length appropriate for the 76mm (plus4) crankshafts.
I think mrtwidster1 is asking if other cylinders, like those made by Pro-X/Niks and ESR, would run well in conjunction with a stroker crank.
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All the cylinders will work if I make a custom sleeve, top spacer plate and lengthen the cylinder. It is less expensive however to use the Sphinx or Puma cylinder and they will make more hp.
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Not trying to raise more concerns than needed, just trying to get a better understanding. if i wanted to run a Pro x type cylinder with a 4 mill stoker then the outlined work that you describe above applies to those cylinders as well?
Again I am trying to wrap my head around this concept. I am not disagreeing, I just did not understand the process.
Are there great advantages to stroking? If so what cc up do you recomend to stroke?
I ask because a different motor setup is in my plans for the future and I am liking what I have read about the sphinx setup verse's the Pro X style cylinder.
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Do what ever you want as far as cylinders are concerned. If you use ESR or Pro-X use stock stroke. If you want to use the plus 4 crank use Sphinx or Puma. That is if you want LED to do the engine. Other builders are welcome to do it however they want.
I believe my stroker post explains the reasons pretty well.
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Your advice in the last post closes this discussion for me. Thank you for your contributions it is appreciated. Really enjoy your videos!