TRX250R.ORG
Workshop => Suspension and Chassis => Topic started by: broken1 on January 25, 2014, 09:08:37 PM
-
I took my wife's 86 trx apart today. Everything came apart good except for the swing arm pivot bolt. I got it to break loose & spin but I can't for the life of me get it to come out. I put the nut on & pounded on it with a dead blow & it wouldn't budge so as a last resort I used a 3lb hammer & still couldn't get it to drive out. I think the bolt is rusted & seized on one of the bushings in the swinger. Have any of you ever had this problem? Got any suggestions on how to get this stubborn ba$!@^d out without cutting anything?
-
I was gonna say cut it until I read last line. But oh well might still have to say cut it. I had one that was a pain in the butt and had to do this as well. You'll just need new bearings and a pivot bolt. Not too bad considering sometimes no other way to get them out and the bearings are wasted anyway
Second that if it has been years since last removed. You won't want to hear it but a cut off wheel works nicely. The nice thing with the 86 is that you have plenty of room to get in there with a 4" cut off wheel. Cut directly through the bushing end caps. Outsides first so you can remove the swingarm and work the inside two if necessary. A 400ex on the other hand is a nightmare. I have trained myself to pull those things often to keep them greased up and free spinning.
-
A method I have used with success is to take the quad, prop it up on its side so the swingarm bolts threads are exposed. Now take some acetone and ATF transmission fluid and mix up a homebrew of penetrating oil(this stuff works great, the acetone works as a carrier agent for the ATF). Dump some of this mix down the threaded side of the bolt while the quad is prop up on its side. Let it soak for a while. Set the quad back down on its wheels. Next take an impact gun and spin the bolt in reverse, it may come out. If the bolt does not come out, now take a air chisel with a pointed bit(not a chisel bit) and try to drive the bolt out from the threaded side. If it is still stuck, as Spiritaces has suggested you may have to cut the bolt out.
-
If it is still stuck, you may have to cut
Patients can help. Take a break and go back at it the next day. Gives time for the penetration oil to work its way to the corrosion.
-
Patients can help. Take a break and go back at it the next day. Gives time for the penetration oil to work its way to the corrosion.
I agree, I always seem to have better luck after letting things soak, free up a bit, and of coarse asking a bunch of questions!! Possible heat??? Never really had this issue though!
Thanks Higgy
-
How does the full bolt spin freely but won't come out? Sure the bolt or head didn't shear/break?
-
I had one on the 450R, that would spin, but would not come out. I believe they develop a lip around the bearing area, that holds them in. It's strange. :sulkiness:
-
The bolt is like $40 bucks or less if you buy a used one or $75 if you want the best one money can buy (see Walsh site sponser). I like to put a by the hour $ value on my time and sanity. If the oil, heat, and praying hasn't worked yet...get out the cutting wheel. Trust me, it will make you so much happier. Don't forget to wear safety glasses and gloves.
-
It's cuz the bolt is stuck to the sleeves but the sleeve spins freely on the bearings at least I think
I believe this is whats happening. Thanks for all the idea's guys. I think I'm going to try a pipe clamp & sockets & press it out. If that don't work cutting is the next option. I'll let you know how it turns out. Thanks again: Kevin
-
I had same thing happen with a banshee pivot bolt. Took me a couple try's and then the next day after I soaked it finally pounded out. It was weird bc it would spin and move a few inches but then got stuck. Even try beating it back and forth from other side. You will get it out.
-
Jon is 100% correct, bolt stick on the sleeves. And Bnau I put a time=money thought to it as well. I like to get my bikes tore down as quick as I can, as I already have a game plan long before that point. I already know whats being saved and whats being replaced, and swingarm bearings always get replaced. I have llearnd over the years not to fight the swinger bolts, if it wont come out on its own, or with a couple hits of an air hammer or sledge, I move right to cutting it out. It requires far less effort, and less anger, plus it only takes a couple minutes
-
when putting back in remember what causes the seizing in the first place, more times then not its oxidation
for oxidation to occur means there is a flow of electrons present, to stop oxidation you must stop the flow of electrons, by using stainless, or moly coating ...
or by simply having a very good ground path that doesn't include your pivot, applying a good layer of non conductive or dielectric grease every so often will also help insulate the pivot bolt and sleeve from being part of the ground path, but somehow it must not allow the electrons to flow from one metal to another to help eliminate the galvanic reaction
-
^^^^this^^^^
-
It's cuz the bolt is stuck to the sleeves but the sleeve spins freely on the bearings at least I think
Interesting. Guess it means I take my R's apart too much if I've never seen this happen before!
-
I worry about the long term effect all that pounding has on the frame. They were designed to be beat on the track not by a hammer :)
-
What is the best grease to put on that bolt? I've always just used Bel-ray grease, or Lucas red (w/ the anti-seize) but curious if there are better options as i haven't really thought about it....
-
This happened to me last week. Bolt would spin freely but would not budge. I soaked it for days with penetratong oil and it still wouldnt move. Turns out I was NEVER going to get it with a hammer. I put the bike up on a steel table, tacked two tubesteel post to the table, one on each side. Then put a piece of steel pipe over the bolt head between the frame and tubesteel post. I then put a porta power between the bolt and other tubesteel post. It was so stuck the entire bike moved before the bolt budged so we had to tack a large piece of angle iron to the table and bolted it to the peg hole. We really cranked up the porta power and finally it jumped about 1/2" with a loud crack. Reset the setup and got it to move again about 1/2". Used a piece of round bar to get it about halfway through and then was able to hammer it out. It took so much force that the 1/2" thick steel table flexed almost an inch on either side before the bolt moved! So yea a hammer would NEVER have worked. But I saved the bolt.