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Workshop => Engine and Bottom End => Topic started by: slayer_424 on February 18, 2014, 10:48:04 AM
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OK this is what I have is a 310 ESR stroker a 38a/s carb a trx5r ESR pipe with stock air box and snorkel. I'm gonna have the cylinder ported by K&T I'm also wondering about an out of frame drag pipe and possible 40.5 mm carb I need an air box eliminator intake was thinking of led. But I'm not sure what I will gain with this all done. I need info on how the pipes will compare I was told shearer. I'm looking for some help and possible parts. Thanks guys
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Also have v-force 3 reeds
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do you want to drag race only?
was your 310 ported already? is a 4mil 72mm setup too slow for you?
theres no replacement for displacement.
38 a/s is a good carb. but could be bigger
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That and messing around at home no trails I have two of them I like the 310 but I'm sick of getting my ass handed to me Im only 130 pound and getting traction is hard all shocks are soft as hell
The port job is only the trx9 from ESR its only a light scuff nothing special
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let some air out of your tires
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if your spinning out and thats the problem and your 310 is the cause why make it more torquey?
what are you drag racing that your loosing to
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So you want a drag motor & setup?
I would look at a full blown drag port job first since you'd likely get more performance gains there. Then explore an OOF (Shearer, CPI, FTZ) pipe. And a carb set up on alcohol.
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Sounds to me like you're trying to do too much with a 310...not really a drag set up. but thats just my .02. Not saying a 310 can't be a drag set up, because there are definitely some fast ones out there, just not a common one.
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I have tried sand tires race MX tires and tries with almost no air in them banshees that are hopped up and a couple R's 450r both Honda and yamaha I'm looking for as much as I can get out of the 310 hearing might be another cause have 13/39 probably should go with a 14 or 15
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Change sprockets first, go 14, then 15. See if that helps(I'm sure it will). Or drop the rear.
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I would send the cylinder off to Mat Shearer or Arlen at LED that can port the cylinder to their pipe, K&T will do a good job also just be open to other builders.
The bad thing about a OOF pipe is it changes the look of the bike and people will expect it to be faster just because of the looks, so you better back it up or you will be teased even more when the banshees/450r beat you.
We have had real good luck with the FTZ inframe drag pipe, I am not saying its the best out there because we have not tested but the esr5 and 11 pipe against it but out of the 3 inframes the FTZ has worked the best. We did try a used FTZ out of frame that we hated but I think it was for a stock bore or was a early design and the header section of the pipe was much smaller than their inframe pipe and that is one of the most important sections of the pipe
Methanol would be a great power increaser, it does come with a down side, first your mileage will be cut in half compared to gas and you must purge the alcohol out of the carb and engine by running your normal gas premix at the end of everyday, but it will add almost 10% more power
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Change sprockets first, go 14, then 15. See if that helps(I'm sure it will). Or drop the rear.
excellant advice, more than likely you can run a 15 front and launch the bike in 2nd gear!
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OK I had a 14 front on it it seemed OK but seemed like it had a bit of bog in 5th but I was also just testing the bike and 3rd gear hole shot but that was too much it gave me even more tire spin . Does shearer Have an in frame ? I was also told that the pipe has to go with the port job is that true ??
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are you using pump fuel?
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I normally use vp C12 or klotz 113 sometimes cam2 it depends on where I'm at
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you will have to talk with matt about a inframe, on the gearing try the 15 tooth that will not be as high as a gear change as trying to launch in 3rd gear
Dont worry about if it will not pull 5th or 6th gear when you are drag racing the first 100 feet will normally win or lose the race so use the gear that launches the bike the hardest. trust me all the fast guys run extremely tall gearing.
MX/WOODS gearing is never a good drag race gearing, time and time again I see big cc MX bikes get killed by smaller properly setup drag bikes mostly do to tires and gearing.
You should be running the rear shock as hard as possible to plant the tires, and then use a adjustable link to change the height of the bike and adjust the angle of the rear swingarm. The more horizontal(flat) the swingarm the less wheelie, the more angle to the swingarm the more wheelie. If you are lifting the throttle because of a wheelie then you have already lost the race.
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OK will have to try that wheelie is no problem in ever wheelie even on pavement I break the tires loose and the swinger I will have to change back I got a +6 stellar arch I think too long as of right now its sitting pretty parallel should I go with a full blown drag port ? Like was stated earlier
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I would leave the +6 swing arm on it but tighten the spring tension as light as you can and raise the angle of the swing arm by using a adjustable link if you still have the factory link style setup. If you do not have a link setup and just run a shock like the Marvin shaw then increase the length of the shock to increase the angle of the swing arm. You want to make the bike wheelie just a little that way you know you are getting good bite.
not sure what type of surface you run on but paddles are for sand to loose dirt style surfaces if it's hard dirt then maybe some other members can recommend a good tire that can be modified some to work on dirt, I believe some people cut rows of knobs off MX tires to create better bite
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If you are breaking the tires loose now, than the last thing you want is a high strung engine, that every time the engine comes on the pipe, you are going to make the wheel spin issue worse.
Like others have said, you need to taller gearing (numerically lower). Taller gearing will "load" the engine and will make it less prone to excessive wheel spin. Also by "loading" the engine correctly you will get faster and you will enjoy riding it more
IMO there is more to being fast than just having a big engine. Set up your bike for your body weight.
Hope this helps
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Dont worry about if it will not pull 5th or 6th gear when you are drag racing the first 100 feet will normally win or lose the race .
true dat but on the long runs sometime you can reel em in :welcoming:. on a short race i would of got waxed for sure
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