TRX250R.ORG
Member Services => Introductions => Topic started by: Mickkey82984 on March 15, 2014, 06:11:38 PM
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Hi guys,
I got banned for life from .net a month or so ago for giving a honest review of my BDT sphinx motor. If you didn't know my pos motor broke the front right cylinder base bolt twice within 2 tanks of gas, they replaced with "new motor", which wont even start after three tanks of gas, I also bought a dd cover with engine which leaked non stop from first start the coc told me was common and dd stopped building because of this common leak yet when I contacted dd the told me they still make this cover and the coc was lying to me. XXX replaced with stock cover on my second motor yet never gave me a refund even tho they cost 100.00 less than the stock cover. I wish I could log into my .net account so I could post all his pm's begging me for a good reviews because my head stud breaking tread was causing him take beating on the forum. Then I find out that POS tried to register a very similar screen name on this site to bullcrap all the people that I was happy with his pos motor when he had me banned for saying both my motors were pos that won't even start or run for more a weekend. Been busy but hopefully I can get it down to Jerry hall in Phoenix and I can find out what is actually wrong with this pos. Just wish I would have listened from the beginning. The coc is the biggest scam artist I know. I was always a supporter of that pos and had it out with a number of member from this site , I just want to say I was sorry and was out of line to all of them. As soon as I get it to jerry I'll let every one now what he says.
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As I told you in the PM months ago we don't care about what was said in the past. We appreciate you coming forward and describing the situation as it happened. Many just clam up because they think it makes them look stupid. You will be helping out the next person (persons) from getting burned by the salesman. Like Jon said we all live and learn. I have been taking a beating by nut swingers going on 4 years now. Glad you joined and we really want pics and upgrades as you make them. We are starting a FAQ section and how to section for all the first timers. Like a quick reference guide to rebuilding motors,clutches, water pumps and many little tips and tricks that keep you from destroying an obsolete part. Welcome aboard and glad you made it over. Thanks,Tony.
PS its funny we were talking about you the other day 2 months ago when a nutswinger signed up switching 2 of the digits in your screen name and was giving us hell. I believe I went over that with you and came to the conclusion it was not you.
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Glad to see you over here !!
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Welcome aboard Mickey!
First off, sorry to hear what happened. It's a real shame. I remember everything going down at the time and it's sad to see you got burned. I know it doesn't help your situation, but your coming forward will surely help others.
This is such a small community. We all need to stick together, help each other out and support those that continue to support our shared interest, the 250r.
Hope you can get your issues resolved and end up with a great motor in the long run.
I'm sure everyone will be able to look past your transgressions and welcome you into the "banned members site". Haha
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welcome and just so you know I was allways on your side even when you were pissed at me for going against the pos .
im glad your here
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Thanks for the welcome guys. I got some time to work on the sphynx this weekend and finally got it to start again. I pulled the stator cover and a builder in cali didnt tighten the bolts that you use advance or retard the timing on the stator and removed the plate and my timing was way retarded, I set it back to stock and it fired, havent ran it yet hopefully nothing got messed up running with timing retarded.
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Good to hear you got it running, if you post up as much information about your build as you can we can all help in getting you on track to fixing any problems you may have with your build.
Breaking cylinder base studs could be a indication of detonation going on, do you run a head stay with your cylinder setup? if you do you may need to make sure that when tightening the bolt on the head or bolts at the frame that everything is aligned and not pulling to the right or left and front or back, if so you should shim or redesign the bracket to fit perfectly between the frame mounts and the head stay on the cylinder.
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simply the best!!!!
:nose-pick:
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Glad you got the R fixed mickey. They would personally make sure that this topic would be 20 page + if the work was done by any other company and on a forum that they could control. What a joke. I hope there was no damage and you will be off and running getting to enjoy your R.
Happy Trails
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Good to hear you got it running, if you post up as much information about your build as you can we can all help in getting you on track to fixing any problems you may have with your build.
Breaking cylinder base studs could be a indication of detonation going on, do you run a head stay with your cylinder setup? if you do you may need to make sure that when tightening the bolt on the head or bolts at the frame that everything is aligned and not pulling to the right or left and front or back, if so you should shim or redesign the bracket to fit perfectly between the frame mounts and the head stay on the cylinder.
Heres the info on my build, Sphynx 363 with supposed dune,drag hill porting feels like mx porting to me, 01 CR 250 ingnition, 41.5 esr bored keihin carb running 190 main with 52 pilot and dgh needle on third clip at 7000 feet, esr Airbox elimantor kit,V-force 3 reeds and reed spacer, Shearer custom pipe that was built for pro-x 370, stock frame,plus 8 swingarm, shaws all the way around, 14 42 gearing could not pull 4th on hill with 15-38 so went up on front and sometime it would pull it and sometime it wouldnt. I had to settle on 14-42 after trying 39,40,41 and had same problem, it always pulls 4th with this set up. Never had a head stay since i've owned the quad.
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So your broken stud issues have gone away with the second motor correct?
It looks like you have all the pieces for a great running motor/bike the only 2 pieces in question are the porting and head design (compression - squish velocity )
Before worrying about the porting and head, you first need to optimize the carburation and ignition timing
i can't help you with exact jet sizes for your motor but you sound like you are in the ball park, you need to do plug chops to dial in the carb and ignition.
You need to to try and locate a 2000 or 2001 cr125 cdi so you can experiment with different amounts of timing in he motor.
pipe design, head design go hand and hand, if you change one more than likely ignition timing will need to be optimized along with carburation
since you only have 1 pipe and 1 head you only have to optimize the ignition and carb
the best way to do this is with a Dyno because you can quickly see improvement or losses but you can also use a simple stop watch with another person, and if you can get a radar gun all the better.
We stop watch and radar gun ourselves in the dunes all the time testing pipes and ignition changes with great success.
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So far the stud bolt has problem gone away, I'm looking for a 01 cr 125 cdi box right now, hopefully it won't be too hard to find one. As far as I was told it has a dome cut for 7000 feet at 14.5 to 1 compression or I think thats what he said anyway It was built to run on vp 110. As far as pipe I was thinking of upgrading should I look at an inframe or out of frame and who do think is best for my riding and porting? I was told dune, hill ported all I do is drag race my buddys LT500 and trx500r up the big cinder hills and run flat drags with people up here on the big weekends, mostly just hills though. The only dyno I know of around around here is at Jerry Halls shop In Phoenix which is about two hours away and about a 3000 foot drop in elavation from where I do all my riding. Would it still be a good idea for me to take to him and have him dyno tune it for me or is the elavation change going to screw everything up?
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Mickey,
Welcome over. My issue was extremely piddly compared to yours and many others. It's good you're over though. Look forward to your pics, vids and your knowledge shared.
Josh
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Mickey I don't know if you had a head stay on your first motor or powder coated...if you didn't then disregard but my question is
were all the mounting surfaces full of powder coat ? im just curious if having thick paint on the mounts will put uneven pressure on the topend while the motor is being torqued?
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So your broken stud issues have gone away with the second motor correct?
It looks like you have all the pieces for a great running motor/bike the only 2 pieces in question are the porting and head design (compression - squish velocity )
Before worrying about the porting and head, you first need to optimize the carburation and ignition timing
i can't help you with exact jet sizes for your motor but you sound like you are in the ball park, you need to do plug chops to dial in the carb and ignition.
You need to to try and locate a 2000 or 2001 cr125 cdi so you can experiment with different amounts of timing in he motor.
pipe design, head design go hand and hand, if you change one more than likely ignition timing will need to be optimized along with carburation
since you only have 1 pipe and 1 head you only have to optimize the ignition and carb
the best way to do this is with a Dyno because you can quickly see improvement or losses but you can also use a simple stop watch with another person, and if you can get a radar gun all the better.
We stop watch and radar gun ourselves in the dunes all the time testing pipes and ignition changes with great success.
Dave are you bringing that radar gun to Silver this July?? I would love to get clocked. (and not by a right cross) lol
Welcome Mickey. I hope you get it dialed in. Lessons learned by all.
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Great to have you over here, the more I hear about the coc, the more I cannot believe anyone is stupid enough to believe what he says.... its just crazy.
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I can bring the radar gun!