TRX250R.ORG
General => Lounge => Topic started by: aberegg05 on March 18, 2014, 07:59:31 PM
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How do I hook up a tether switch up to my cr250 ig?
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I assume the tether is a Pro Design tether but this will work for any kill switch, add and run a jumper wire from the positive coil input up to the wire on your tether that runs to the knob, the other wire on the tether goes into aluminum, this wire should be grounded to the chasis where ever it's convenient. If you connect the coil jumper wire to the wire from the tether that goes into the aluminum, you will be in for a real "shock" if by chance any of your person comes into contact with any of that exposed metal on the tether. This should work.
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How do I hook up a tether switch up to my cr250 ig?
I connected mine to the green and black wires on mine. Works just fine. I believe these are also the wire connections that you use to plug in an off button on the handlebars.
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You have 2 wires coming off the teather and should have 2 wires coming off the cr ign harness with male connectors. One is hot and one is ground. They connect together and I added a extra ground off my frame to the ground off the ignition. As for te teather it doesn't matter w ch side is ground or hot, all that teather does is act like a switch and separates the power from the ground. Then when you pull your clip out that button slams shut and grounds it out killing the motor
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If you take these 3M wire connectors/splice and one wire from the tether and go to the Blk/Wht wire and then take the other tether wire and go to the Black wire it will work
What is nice about these splices is it does not require cutting any wires, I normally use a little di-electric grease with them and then use electrical tape over them
(http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?mwsId=SSSSSuH8gc7nZxtUnxt1Px_GevuSeChshvTSevTSeSSSSSS--)
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THANKS RSSS396!!!!!! I did as you suggested and used the connectors on the black and black/white wires and it worked great!
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no prob :welcoming:
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Dave this is the first time that I have to disagree with something you've said,
those vampire style connections, aren't the best choice for off-road vehicles.
After time and vibration and mud and water the connection between wire and connectors teeth will degrade.
The wire will start cutting from the teeth and vibration then once strands have been cut, it will start having higher resistance, creating heat at the connection point,
and over time those types will fail leaving the wire isolation brittle and the strands cut...
they are ok for a while but for a more permanent trouble free splice, you cant beat solid crimps joints, or solder joints and insolate with heat shrink with the adhesive melt inside
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Dave this is the first time that I have to disagree with something you've said,
those vampire style connections, aren't the best choice for off-road vehicles.
After time and vibration and mud and water the connection between wire and connectors teeth will degrade.
The wire will start cutting from the teeth and vibration then once strands have been cut, it will start having higher resistance, creating heat at the connection point,
and over time those types will fail leaving the wire isolation brittle and the strands cut...
they are ok for a while but for a more permanent trouble free splice, you cant beat solid crimps joints, or solder joints and insolate with heat shrink with the adhesive melt inside
I will completely agree with you on this.
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well I do admit they are not the best connection that can be done, but I have also seen plenty of poorly crimped connections from using the typical multi-purpose cutter/stripper/crimper like this:
(http://sigma.octopart.com/9756548/image/3M-TH-450.jpg)
If you are going to do a crimped connection then I highly recommend the ratcheting style like this:
(http://i00.i.aliimg.com/wsphoto/v0/566212872/Energy-Saving-Crimping-Pliers-font-b-crimper-b-font-Precise-crimping-die-sets-without-screw-fixing.jpg)
I always use a little dielectric grease on the blade area to help seal the connection and the natural tension of the wire sheathing also helps keep the connection resistant to water.
I have probably every type connection either in my shop or available at my job, yet I do still use these from time to time simply for the quick
convince or the in the case where I want to remove it at a later time and with just a sample piece of shrink tube the spliced area is repaired.
My enclosed trailer was completely wired using these connectors from the factory and I have yet to have issues from them.
But there is better connections as you have mentioned and I would recommend using them as long as a quality connector and crimper is used.
But please avoid the cheap connectors and multi-tool crimper's from places like Harbor Freight other wise I would go with the blade splices I have shown along with a little dielectric grease.
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Im not complaining. It was quick and easy. If the connectors fail on me ill pull the electric tape off and splice the wires another way. Thanks.
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Now I have wired up trailer lights and instrumentation at work with these style 3m grease filled connectors, and they are awesome and have never had a issue with these either, but these you insert the ends of up to 3 unstripped wires into the piece then squeeze to splice the 3 together
(http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?mwsId=66666UgxGCuNyXTtNxT6NXf2EVU6EbHSHVs6EVs6E666666--&boundedSize=310)