TRX250R.ORG
Workshop => Engine and Bottom End => Topic started by: troybilt on March 19, 2014, 10:30:36 AM
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Does a 250r reed cage fit the pilot top end? I'm wanting to get rid of the 32mm Round slide carb in my dad's pilot and go to a 35-38 A/S. I don't know much about the pilot top ends yet.
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A member over on Mac Dizzy. Com deals with those, "hoser" & can provide you with anything you need to know. Has been for many years, so he has some info.
Neil
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The intake manifold is the same bolt pattern. But the pilot intake goes straight out and the trx makes a turn. I have a 38mm AS to put on mine but the stock manifold is too constrictive. Let me know if you find one that comes straight out like the pilot. Otherwise you have to reroute the intake system.
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Didn't someone try the quadzilla or cr500 intake at one point in time on the pilot?
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I wonder if the CR intake boot will work on the rad valve its straight as well I think. Thanks for the info
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the CR intake boot will work on the rad valve its straight as well I think.
pretty much what I was going to say
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I tried putting on the rad valve but it points the carb to the left. Hooks up great with the bigger boot. Just does not follow the stock path. Does look odd and the carb does not sit plumb
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Well the reason I asked, is I just picked up a pilot, complete, and looking to mod it a little... I can't leave anything alone... LOL
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Been trying to put mine back together for 10 years. :lol: I think the solution was to go with a v-force reed cage and make your own intake or something that looks like this which seems to look straight. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Moto-Tassinari-Delta-3-Reed-Valve-System-V305B-Honda-Four-Trax-86-89-V-790861-/390794039417?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5afd23d079&vxp=mtr
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Sounds like it's time for Troy to make something new and cool! I always enjoy seeing your work Troy.
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The rad valve may be easier to modify because it's metal. Do the karting guys use a straight intake?
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What do you want for the 35 Benjamin?
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There is a guy on FB I am cutting some blank intake manifold plates of 3/8" aluminum. If you want one Troy I can cut it for you and you could weld a tube to it. The modifying the rad valve is a good idea too Dan.
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What size hole is in the center on the one you're cutting? I could fab one up forsure. I think we're onto something here. Dan hold onto that 35a/s... LOL!
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What size hole is in the center on the one you're cutting?
He wants them blank in the middle. If you know what size you want it will just cut that.
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I'll measure my rad valve and see, I have no idea, 40-45-ish mm if I remember right.
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I am looking at the pilot intake boot. It is offset the right 1/2" and angles down. Looks like the hole needs to go through at an angle. Oh well, I guess thats what weld is for.
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forget who did it , but ran against a guy that had a cr500 topend in his, fast as %$#^ !
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3-D print the intake tube you want.
john
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Don't worry, it will still look stock. Haha!
LOL sounds like something I suspected a few years ago on one of Troy's different rides! You know what I'm talking about Troy.
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OOPS, just saw it was for a real pilot 400 lol.
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Don't worry, it will still look stock. Haha!
LOL sounds like something I suspected a few years ago on one of Troy's different rides! You know what I'm talking about Troy.
Hey, that 89 is bone stock! LOL!! Only a thinner head gasket that was it, not even a pipe at that time. 195 psi and it runs awesome for stock a stock bike.
Yea this system is for my Dad's 89 Honda Pilot, not a pilot cylinder in a 250r... FYI. Does anyone know why the carb has coolant lines running to a from the carb? Seemed strange to me, but I haven't dug into into too much yet.
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never worked on a pilot but many models of snowmobiles would have coolant run thru the carbs to keep them freezing, I suspect honda expected these to run year round so that was a precaution.
I would put a small valve inline to shut the coolant off in the warm temps
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never worked on a pilot but many models of snowmobiles would have coolant run thru the carbs to keep them freezing, I suspect honda expected these to run year round so that was a precaution.
I would put a small valve inline to shut the coolant off in the warm temps
Ah that's interesting, never been around snowmobiles. But that makes sense. So to hook up the 35 A/S, I can just bypass the carb altogether then. I better do some research on this bad boy.
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I can just bypass the carb altogether then.
I figured it had something to do with the temps and choking the carb. Or just maybe to warm it up quick in freezing weather. Yep, you can just bypass the coolant lines to the carb- block them off or remove. It does not get cold here. :lol:
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You could take a Rad Valve and just hack of the end, then weld a straight tube off to it.
That's what I was just thinking I bet Jerry could weld something up and it would work perfectly!