TRX250R.ORG
Workshop => Engine and Bottom End => Topic started by: kidder86 on May 23, 2014, 04:09:50 PM
-
Just had my trx blow a hole through the piston :( so now I am tearing down the motor to rebuild it. My plans are to ask for help deciding what to do to this motor. I plan on leaving the cylinder stock and the rod stock. I don't race just play in the trails so large power isn't as big of a concern as reliability. I plan on getting the crank rebuilt with a long rod ( 87 +) and new crank bearings. I am a bit on the fence on what year of piston and cylinder to use as I have both styles. Check out the one pic, there seems like something is going on in the bottom of the crank case, any ideas?? Not sure why it leaned out and blew a hole in the piston. running a pj38 175 main dgh needle mid clip and 52 pilot jet. Feel free to chime in and give your opinion and ask questions.
(http://i61.tinypic.com/dncca0.jpg)
(http://i57.tinypic.com/or73mg.jpg)
(http://i59.tinypic.com/15482vb.jpg)
(http://i59.tinypic.com/ayppj5.jpg)
-
it was there from the previous rebuild as the grind marks are not from me. should I epoxy over it or just leave it?
-
Well that looks bad, I'm interested in hearing the technical comments on this thread...Thats one of the worst looking pistons ive ever seen...
-
im thinking blown head gasket. or detonation . need some info what compression and what fuel octane . its hard to tell for me any way . seen a head gasket issue eat a hole in a piston in the same spot as yours. and fried edges of piston from detonating. or bad electrical system
-
last compression check was 150psi was using regular gas 87 octane. new build is getting a 2002 cr250 ignition.
-
150 is pretty low I would have rebuilt it at that point. how was your coolant level .
-
coolant level was good, there was lots in the engine when I tore it down
-
was it breaking up and you kept riding? those pics look worse than when i seen them on my phone.could have been from low compression not burning the fuel and when it finally had enough in there and lit off it went boom. this is a wild guess
-
if the crank bearings slid right out of the bores then thats not good.
-
http://www.smellofdeath.com/lloydy/images/piston25.jpg BURNT-OUT BLOW-HOLE
This piston was overheated so badly that a hole melted through the crown and collapsed the ring grooves on the exhaust side. Normally the piston temperature is higher on the exhaust side so catastrophic problems will appear there first. There are several reasons for a failure like this, here are the most common; air-leak at the magneto side crankshaft seal, too lean carb jetting, too far advanced ignition timing or faulty igniter box, too hot of a spark plug range, too high of a compression ratio, too low octane fuel.
-
It looks like it was long over due for a rebuild. The color of the skirts looks like it's been blowing by the rings for a long time probably because of too much piston to wall clearance. Hopefully Neil or Jerry or one of the other really smart guys will chime in. Whatever the cause, you're in for a full rebuild. You may need new or repaired cases too. It looks like the crank bearing was spinning inside its bore.
-
the crank bearings didn't slide out of the cases, they were pretty difficult to get out. the magneto side was the easiest and the other side was a bit easier. I will take better pics of the cases where the bearings were sitting. the bearings were not seized, the magneto side was a bit chunks as there were piston bits in there.
-
I am hoping someone here can guide me into what year cylinder/head is the best to use with what year crank rod and piston manufacturer, ect. Is it better to get a new rod or get a new crank. I have a good local machine to do all the work.
-
here are some more pics I took today of the cases and cylinder. the 86 cylinder has a bit of porting and has a bore around 66.25mm but needs a bore and the 87 cylinder is stock and a bore of 66mm.
(http://i57.tinypic.com/iqhqab.jpg)
(http://i59.tinypic.com/2m4srcl.jpg)
(http://i57.tinypic.com/140yseu.jpg)
(http://i60.tinypic.com/a5dh6u.jpg)
(http://i62.tinypic.com/26260lw.jpg)
-
the crank bearings didn't slide out of the cases, they were pretty difficult to get out. the magneto side was the easiest and the other side was a bit easier. I will take better pics of the cases where the bearings were sitting. the bearings were not seized, the magneto side was a bit chunks as there were piston bits in there.
ok so they werent still attached to the crankshaft when you pulled the cases apart ? thats good if they didnt stay attached to the crank
i dont want to tell you how to do it since people have their own methods but i dont recomend beating or pressing the bearings out of the bores, especially with unheated cases. pop the cases in the oven at 200* and they should be rather easy to remove. might have to go up to 250* but just play it by ear and see what happens. i like to start at 175-200 and if i have problems then i go up alittle higher if need be. ill usually have the new bearings in the freezer from the day before and ready to go in when the old ones are out so i dont have to keep reheating the cases
-
the crank slid out from the bearings real easy. to put the bearings pack in place I plan on freezing the new bearings and warming up the cases in the oven and hopefully they will slide right in by hand or a light tap in the outer race with a hammer.
-
I am hoping someone here can guide me into what year cylinder/head is the best to use with what year crank rod and piston manufacturer, ect. Is it better to get a new rod or get a new crank. I have a good local machine to do all the work.
there are lots of combos that work,save yourself money ,time and heartache by using a well know 250r builder and not a machinist arlen ,jerry or neil is who come to mind, now is the time to upgrade to a way stronger motor
-
I don't have the money to send my whole motor out to the USA for a rebuild, labor costs and shipping costs are too much. If there was a good engine builder in Ontario or Quebec than it might be a different story. there is enough information and help on this forum to get me through the rebuild. The machine shop that is local is specifically for atv's and snowmobiles ect, so they know what they are doing. I have been researching and am now thinking about doing my motor as a 1987 rod, using the 86 cylinder and piston. I think this will make me need a 3/16" spacer plate.
-
if ya got the motor that far apart on your own you don't need to send ot out for a rebuild . do it yourself . only thing ya need to figure out is what your Putin back in.
-
last compression check was 150psi was using regular gas 87 octane. new build is getting a 2002 cr250 ignition.
I will try to help you with some analysis of the cause and what to do when I have time..... I do not think that putting a CR250 ignition is going to prevent this from happening again. Use the money you were planning to spend on the ignition to rebuild the engine right..
Using the 1986 piston will will require a spacer plate if you use the long rod. I would not use the 1987 to 1989 piston with the intake port shape you have.
.
-
I appreciate all the input I can get here. I have already purchased the cr250 ignition over the winter before the motor disaster. is there any piston and rod manufacturers to avoid?
-
I appreciate all the input I can get here. I have already purchased the cr250 ignition over the winter before the motor disaster. is there any piston and rod manufacturers to avoid?
no wiesco cranks,I would wait till jerry answers, he is a great source of information,as well as others on here
-
thinking about a wiesce rod in the stock crank, Pro-x piston and the all balls crank bearings and seal kit, the all balls are supposed to be koyo bearings.
-
If I am using the 5mm spacer plate on the cylinder will I need longer studs? or should I use bolts?
-
honestly i would stick with honda badged bearings and seals and gaskets. only because its a guessing game what youll get in the aftermarket kits. sometimes trying to save a couple dollars can bite you later. prox is the way to go on a rod. if you can buy a honda rod then it wouldnt be a bad choice either but im not sure they sell em seperate. i dont care for cast pistons so your on your own there :glee:
if the stud was at the top of the nut or slightly above without a spacer then i think its best to use longer ones. i prefer to have the stud slightly above the nut so all threads have contact
-
Im not sure but I think the oem cr 500 bearings are the ones you want to get,Tony (PUMASHINE) may have the longer studs and spacer plate.Personaly I have all ways had good luck with cast pistons ,so for me the prox would be my choice or oem if you could find one. these are just my opinions and suggest letting others chime in before spending your money.
-
I checked around a couple places and the price of rebuilding a honda crank with a new rod was more than buying a new hot rods crank. I have had a couple hot rods and never had any problems.
-
I thought about the hotrods crank but the cheapest one I can find is $260, with the shipping and import charges. prices in Canada are ridiculous, this is why I would rather get the crank rebuilt. plus if I buy all my parts from one source, shipping is cheaper
-
The longer studs needed for the spacer plate is Honda part# 92900-100553B the 55 is the 55mm in length. The stock one is Honda part# 92900-10045-3B which is 45mm in length. Seems like all you would need is a stud 5mm longer but the part# 92900-10050-3B does not exist. I have 32 of the 10 x 55 studs left
-
thanks pumashine, I will need 4 of them and a 3/16" spacer plate
-
tony save four for me
-
honestly i would stick with honda badged bearings and seals and gaskets. only because its a guessing game what youll get in the aftermarket kits. sometimes trying to save a couple dollars can bite you later.
You will always get the bearing with the right internal clearance when you buy OEM ball bearings.
The dimension where the balls and rollers ride in the inner and outer races have the same dimensions for the majority of the common internal bearing clearances. The clearance is adjusted by the size of the balls and rollers. C3 bearings have bigger balls than C4 bearings. Bearings with a C3 clearance is tighter than a bearing with a C4 clearance.
So what am I trying to say.
The number on the outside of an OEM bearing does not always reflect the actual internal clearance of the bearing.
Why?
OEM purchasing agents are always looking for deals on bearings or occasionally needing large quantities of bearings on short notice.
Sometimes bearing manufactures are in the middle of a production run of let say bearings that have the dimensions needed for main bearings on the ends of a crankshaft. The bearings have already been marked with a part number that designates a C3 internal clearance. An engine manufacture calls up their bearing manufacturer and says I need 5000 bearings with a C4 internal clearance. The bearing manufacturer says it will be a month before we make a run on the requested bearings that will be marked as C4 bearings. The bearing manufacturer says "We already have 10,000 inner and outer races made and marked with part numbers designating a C3 clearance but have not been assembled." "We can put the C4 balls in the races but the part number will not reflect the true internal clearance." The engine manufacture says that is ok, we just need C4 bearings and do not care what numbers are on the bearing.
The engine manufacture assembles 4000 new engines with the C4 bearings marked C3 and puts the other 1000 bearings into the replacement parts network. Years later someone is rebuilding their engine and goes to the motorcycle dealer to buy a set of main bearings and the dealer wants $40.00 per bearing. The owner is trying to do the job as cheap as possible so he takes the old bearing to the local bearing warehouses or calls one of the discount bearing suppliers online and they set him up with a new set of C3 bearings that are made by the same manufacturer that made the OEM bearings. A couple of middlemen have been eliminated and the bearings cost $20.00 per bearing and have the same part numbers on the bearing as the OEM bearing.
The owner assembles the engine and it runs for a short while and the main bearings fails. He figures he may have done something wrong assembling the engine because this was his first rebuild. He did not know that the bearing he installed was a C3 and should have been a C4. It would have been a C4 bearing regardless of what was printed on the outside of the bearing had he bought the OEM main bearings from his local motorcycle dealer.
I have seen the above scenario occur more than once with customers. Early in my career it happened to me trying to save some customers some money on their rebuilds.
-
I checked around a couple places and the price of rebuilding a honda crank with a new rod was more than buying a new hot rods crank. I have had a couple hot rods and never had any problems.
you didnt check around very well. prox rod is $100. rebuild labor is $100. and round trip shipping. youll be in the $250ish neighbor hood. hotrods assembly is about the same price.
until recently the hotrods was made in taiwan. aparently the rod is now made in usa but the crankwheels are still from taiwan i believe. im not saying hotrods is total junk but im not convinced its on par with the honda stuff. and for the same price why not put honda stuff back in. if your worried about the tins then have someone weld em
-
thinking about a wiesce rod in the stock crank, Pro-x piston and the all balls crank bearings and seal kit, the all balls are supposed to be koyo bearings.
wiseco crank and rod are timebomb with a short fuse. if you cut corners now you pay for it later
(http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j357/doddledo/_2_zps1793bb06.jpg)
(http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j357/doddledo/_1_zps6e92cee0.jpg)
-
thanks for the good info on the bearings. I will double check but I think my crank shop charges $50 for a crank rebuild. def going to stay away from the wiseco cranks
-
you didnt check around very well. prox rod is $100. rebuild labor is $100. and round trip shipping. youll be in the $250ish neighbor hood. hotrods assembly is about the same price.
until recently the hotrods was made in taiwan. aparently the rod is now made in usa but the crankwheels are still from taiwan i believe. im not saying hotrods is total junk but im not convinced its on par with the honda stuff. and for the same price why not put honda stuff back in. if your worried about the tins then have someone weld em
I was told anywhere from 250 to 300 plus shipping 2 ways. You can find hotrods for 190 with free shipping. Noe that hotrods has a good reputation, I feel more comfortable running one of their new cranks than running a crank rebuilt with nearly 30 year old parts with unknown histories. I don't know how many times it's been pressed apart and puf back together, run extremely hot, had the threads over torqued or the bearing journals worn/repaired. Plus there are only a few shops that really know how to rebuild one properly. I'm definitely no expert, just my thoughts.
-
thats a valid point. on a unknown engine its hard to say what the crank went through over the years. a thorough inspection should be able to determine if its safe to reuse but replacing it with a new unit is another option for guys that choose to do so.
crankworks is one of the few places i would trust with a crank and their labor is $100. rod of pretty much any brand is around $100. plus round trip ship. just for the record.
250-300 without shipp ? that must of been what coc quoted. i wouldnt send my lawnmower to that guy :carlos:
-
thanks for the heads up on the cranks, will have to get the crank inspected. The machine shop I use is Iantomasi in Ontario. If your not sure who they are check them out, they are big into snowmobiles and do all the machine work onsite and hold world records for snowmobile drags. they have rebuilt many cranks and the 250r should be no different. I have since ordered the cr500 8 ball crank bearings. My real only question is I would like to know the major advantages and disadvantages to running the 3mm vs 3/16" cylinder spacer plate. I have seen both recommended for my setup and would like to know why both are being recommended.
thanks
-
Just had my trx blow a hole through the piston :( so now I am tearing down the motor to rebuild it. My plans are to ask for help deciding what to do to this motor. I plan on leaving the cylinder stock and the rod stock. I don't race just play in the trails so large power isn't as big of a concern as reliability. I plan on getting the crank rebuilt with a long rod ( 87 +) and new crank bearings. I am a bit on the fence on what year of piston and cylinder to use as I have both styles. Check out the one pic, there seems like something is going on in the bottom of the crank case, any ideas?? Not sure why it leaned out and blew a hole in the piston. running a pj38 175 main dgh needle mid clip and 52 pilot jet. Feel free to chime in and give your opinion and ask questions.
(http://i61.tinypic.com/dncca0.jpg)
(http://i57.tinypic.com/or73mg.jpg)
(http://i59.tinypic.com/15482vb.jpg)
(http://i59.tinypic.com/ayppj5.jpg)
The first picture of the piston shows abnormally high exhaust temperature. High exhaust temperature is usually the result of one or more of the following. Not enough fuel in the air that the engine is consuming, retarded ignition timing and sometimes an exhaust system that is over restricted.
A lean air/fuel mixture can be a result of a partially restricted jet, a jet that is too small, air entering the engine through some path other than through the carb or using old fuel. Fuel looses some of it's heating value as the light chemicals in the fuel evaporate. Evaporation occurs when fuel sets in the fuel tank or is stored in a container that is not ABSOLUTELY AIR TIGHT.
Fuel loses some of it's heating value every day it sits in a vented fuel tank. PLASTIC GAS JUGS are not air tight enough to keep the chemicals from escaping from the fuel and gas jug. If the bike sits in the sun or where the temperature is high ,the heating value of the fuel goes down quickly. Old fuel will run lean and raise the exhaust temperature just like decreasing the jet size.
A sheared woodruff key on the flywheel can advance or retarded the ignition timing. Advance ignition timing can cause detonation and retarded ignition timing will raise the exhaust temperature just like having jets that are too small of a main jet.
I do not recommend running 87-octane pump gas in these engines even if it only has a pipe on a stock engine.
Rust on the crank is a sign moisture was getting into the engine. The most common cause of moisture getting into the engine, is leaving water in the exhaust system after washing or starting the engine with a wet air filter after washing. The needles in the connecting rod and the main bearings probably also have rust on them.
The seize marks on the upper half of the piston is expected when the top of the piston was hot enough to melt.
-
All decisions are made for this build. Going with a 67mm 86 style pro-x piston,86 cylinder( turns out it has a decent port cleanup) long wiesco con rod in stock crank, 8 ball cr500 crank bearings, 3mm spacer plate. going to do the UCCR and solder squish, prob run a race gas mix, will have to see whats around here for gas options. will post pics along the way
-
Thanks for the write up, Im starting to think it was the 87 octane gas that caused this problem. Lesson learned. just got my cr500 crank bearings and they were $96.50 Canadian from the dealer after tax.
-
if i were you i wouldnt touch that wiseco rod with a 100' foot pole . but if you insist i hear they do stand behind the product so when it blows a hole in your cases they might buy you new ones
-
if i were you i wouldnt touch that wiseco rod with a 100' foot pole . but if you insist i hear they do stand behind the product so when it blows a hole in your cases they might buy you new ones
If the rod breaks and blows a hole in your cases, they might give you another con rod and a Wiseco T shirt. They are not going to give you any cases, new or old.
Don't ware the T shirt because you are going to need it to stuff it in the hole in the cases.
-
I thought it was just the crankshafts that were garbage??
-
The whole thing is made in China
-
The whole thing is made in China
Yes.............yes.................yes.
I still do some engine design consulting for engine manufactures. One of the companies moved all of there manufacturing operations to China about 4 or 5 years ago. The drawings and necessary information was used to make the prototype engines. The engines were dyno and field-tested. The prototype engines met all of the design criteria and exceed all of the performance and reliability testing. Mass production started and customers immediately started having problems.
We started testing materials, heat treats and machine tolerances. None of the specifications were met in any of these areas. The owner of this company eventually moved to China. He had to make this move to monitor and watch every aspect of the manufacturing process to keep these companies from taking every imaginable short cut.
He still catches them trying to steel the aluminum ingots he supplies of a specific alloy used for casting cylinder and cases and throws scrap aluminum of unknown alloy into the furnace to replace the stolen ingots.
He has caught them not using enough heat when forging connecting rods and crank webs.
He has caught them taking parts out of the heat treat oven to soon.
He has caught them using the wrong size wire when winding ignition coils and stators.
He has caught them not using enough silicon and tungsten carbide in the cylinder plating process.
The list just goes on and on and on what these people will do to try to save money when they are not watched like hawks. He has been successful in getting the manufacturing bugs eliminated since he lives there and oversees all of the manufacturing operations. According to company owner the reliability issues have vanished since he is getting engines that are manufactured to our original design specification. Any time he has to come back to the USA for anything he shuts down all manufacturing until he gets back.
He told me all of the American companies are having the same problems but the owners of most of these American companies are not willing to move there to oversee the day to day operations. They usually hire a Chinese "manufacturing experts" to oversee the day to day manufacturing operations but that is like hiring a fox to watch the chicken house.
Again...........You usually get what you pay for.
-
Anything made in China, Run!!!
-
ill bet these are some chinese or taiwan time bombs :glee:
(http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j357/doddledo/broke_zps9c4d31d1.jpg)
(http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j357/doddledo/_4_zpse229bfbc.jpg)
-
is the oring on the exhaust manifold some special oring, or will any oring that fits do the trick?
-
ill bet these are some chinese or taiwan time bombs :glee:
(http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j357/doddledo/broke_zps9c4d31d1.jpg)
(http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j357/doddledo/_4_zpse229bfbc.jpg)
That looks like a Wiseco con rod???
Are those 125s or 250s???
-
wisecos were mostly black from what ive seen so im sure thats what they are. older hotrods ive seen were grey but maybe some were black. theyre either 125 or 250 not exactly sure i got the pics from another site
-
just noticed my waterpump is missing the separator #5 in the parts diagram
http://www.ronniesmailorder.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=2462581&category=ATVs&make=Honda&year=1986&fveh=131356
what does this part do and why would someone take it out?
-
you must meen #5. ive quit trying to guess why people do stupid shit like that. probly the same people that pry off the flywheel with screwdrivers
-
I would return the wiseco rod and get a pro x rod kit and have your oem crank rebuilt with it. Get you a new piston and take it and the cylinder to your machine shop and have them do the bore and hone.. I myself have used the all balls crank bearings in two motors now with absolutely zero issues! They have the 8 balls instead of 7 and they are the koyo/japan bearings same as oem. My advice would be to take your time and do it the way you want it and are going to Be happy with it the first time. even if it takes a little longer to save some cash to Do it right. That way you know it's solid and you won't regret it later
-
im wondering if the missing separator caused the motor to overheat??
-
I started to assemble the top end (67mm piston stock stroke) and with the .039" and 0.030" base gaskets and the 3mm spacer plate the top of the piston is flush with the top of the cylinder. The head is stock. I did the UCCR and used 20cc of motor oil. (not sure how accurate my UCCR test was). according to calculations the UCCR is 13.69. does this sound right? what octane gas do I need for this motor? where does the piston sit on stock motor at TDC?
-
i think everyone has their own way of doing it but where the piston ends up in relation to the cylinder top is of little importance when i work on a engine. that can always be adjusted by either cutting the cylinder top or the head. i like to know what the starting point of my port timing is and where the bottom of the transfers will be and go from there. is your spacer plate just to offset a different rod or wristpin height ?
-
yes the spacer is for the 87 rod and the 86 piston setup
-
motor is back together, used the 3mm spacer plate 0.039" and the 0.030" base gaskets. the top of the piston comes up flush with the top of the cylinder. will see how much compression there is when I put it back in the bike and kick it over!! ended up getting an airstriker 38mm carb instead of the 38mm PJ!! as well as a boyseen reed valve, don't want to risk a broken intake boot ever.
-
aftermarket crank failures seem to be so common anymore that i hardly pay attention but i seen this one today. bearing seized up. he got off lucky and wont need a new set of cases http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1091833-2001-kx250-seized-connecting-rod/
-
aftermarket crank failures seem to be so common anymore that i hardly pay attention but i seen this one today. bearing seized up. he got off lucky and wont need a new set of cases http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1091833-2001-kx250-seized-connecting-rod/
It is sad to see the number of my customers that are willing to gamble against the odds on the aftermarket cranks and rod kits vs OEM parts when it comes to rebuilding a lower end.
Is another $100.00 or so on OEM pats on a lower end rebuild really worth the gamble especially the cost of replacing all of the other parts that get taken out when a crank fails?
Until one experiences and looses when they gamble on these substandard parts themselves, they will finally understand what we see on a weekly basis.
-
got the motor fired up. initially had 180 psi compression, ran for 20 min just idling. noticed there was water leaking out the weeping hole on the clutch cover. fixed that with a pump seal. put it back together, let it idle for 5 min then all of a sudden started reving real high, with no throttle input, the kill switch did nothing as did removing the plug cap, shut the gas off and it eventually died. checked compression after and its at 210 psi. im running 91 octane shell gas which has no ethanol. prob need race gas, wonder why this didn't happen the first time I ran the bike, or did I develop an air leak somewhere?
-
im going to build a leak down tester and check for an air leak. prob whats causing this
-
It is one of the easiest tests, to perform. And will catch, possible issues. Good luck!
-
built a leak tester and found bubbles coming from the centre gasket:( worst place ever, im going to try and tighten the bolts and hopefully that works. cant believe this happened, I put gasket sealer on there along with the gasket!!!
-
i wouldnt go above 7ftlb or you may strip the threads. 5-7ftlb is plenty. if it still leaks your better off taking it apart and find out the problem. maybe one of your dowles is not letting it slide together or possibly the crank isnt centered correct
-
i wouldnt go above 7ftlb or you may strip the threads. 5-7ftlb is plenty. if it still leaks your better off taking it apart and find out the problem. maybe one of your dowles is not letting it slide together or possibly the crank isnt centered correct
If I remember right the base nuts were suppose to be torqued to 30ish ftlbs.
-
right but the way i understood is the center gasket was leaking and he was tightening all the small bolts holding the cases together
-
built a leak tester and found bubbles coming from the centre gasket:( worst place ever, im going to try and tighten the bolts and hopefully that works. cant believe this happened, I put gasket sealer on there along with the gasket!!!
If the engine has ever broken a piston or had a rod bearing failure there is a good chance the the mating surfaces of the cases that surround the crank shaft may be damaged. We are constantly repairing these surfaces.
A piece of broken piston will try to pass between the cases and crank. The piston pieces are usually thicker than the space. The cases will bend or crack when this happens. Checking the cases for flatness should have been part of a routine rebuild. We cannot assume anything is OK on these old machines. Everything has to be checked, that is why it is so expensive to have it done right.
-
didn't appear to be any damage to the cases. other than what's been posted and that wouldn't cause this problem. it was an aftermarket (winderosa) gasket. next gasket is going to be a Honda one
-
saved a few bucks initually but have to take it apart and get a new gasket. cost more in the end and alittle grief im sure :excitement:
-
Thats too bad. It's never fun redoing what you just did. That's why most on here preach OEM. The good thing is that you caught it before it ruined anything else.
-
tightened up all the case bolts to 12 Nm, most moved a bit. pressure test seems good. put 10psi and it had dropped less than 1 psi after 45 min. this sounds good to me. glad I didn't have to take it apart again.
-
as well as a boyseen reed valve, don't want to risk a broken intake boot ever.
worried about intake air leak lean condition, yet refuses to take professional builders advice on using a grenade for a connecting rod
(http://user-cdn.spring.me/photos/20120508/n4fa8a4cb73766_large.jpg)
o it wont be the last time you have to take it apart. it may even take itself apart for you.
-
it was mentioned several times already on the previous pages about the aftermarket rod stuff. im sure he dont need reminded anymore
-
yes, I realize that wiesco rods have a bad rap, im sure not 100% of them break, hopefully I got a good one. thank you
-
yes, I realize that wiesco rods have a bad rap, im sure not 100% of them break, hopefully I got a good one. thank you
its not just the rod that fails the tins also come off fairly easy.
http://www.atvriders.com/vbb/showthread.php?428775-Wiseco-cranks&highlight=wiseco+crank
john