TRX250R.ORG
FAQ's & Technical Articles => FAQ's, How-To Guides & Useful Information => Topic started by: rablack21 on May 27, 2014, 09:49:48 AM
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I rebuilt my CCP stabilzer this weekend because it was leaking a little bit of oil out of it. Here is the process. This will take me several posts because of all the pics, so please do not comment and ask questions until I'm am finished.
Here is a couple pics showing where the unit was leaking.
(http://forums.trx250r.org/vbulletin_imports/100_2092_2017-04-18_4661.jpg)(http://forums.trx250r.org/vbulletin_imports/100_2093_2017-04-18_6331.jpg)
Rebuild process:
Step 1. Remove the 2 allen bolts that hold on the upper arm. When removing the upper arm, take care not to lose the 3 metal dowels underneath the arm. They may or may not come off with the arm.
(http://forums.trx250r.org/vbulletin_imports/100_2094_2017-04-18_9626.jpg)(http://forums.trx250r.org/vbulletin_imports/100_2095_2017-04-18_3850.jpg)(http://forums.trx250r.org/vbulletin_imports/100_2096_2017-04-18_6072.jpg)
From the above pics, you can see that the upper oring had squished out and was also torn allowing dirt to get through.
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Step 2: Remove the 12 allen bolts on the back side of the puck as shown.
(http://forums.trx250r.org/vbulletin_imports/100_2097_2017-04-18_1846.jpg)
Tap the front side of the backing plate until the backing plate comes free from the round puck. There are also 2 metal dowels that help align the backing plate onto the front round puck, so take caution not to lose them when removing the backing plate.
(http://forums.trx250r.org/vbulletin_imports/100_2098_2017-04-18_1454.jpg)(http://forums.trx250r.org/vbulletin_imports/100_2099_2017-04-18_947.jpg)
You can now see the inner workings of the stabilizer, and also the locations of the orings to be replaced.
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Step 3: Poor out the old oil and remove the center part (as indicated by my finger) by pushing on the front side of the center piece until it falls out.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]5138[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]5139[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]5140[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]5141[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]5142[/ATTACH]
Take note of the black oring in the top of the round puck that will need to be replaced.
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Step 4: Unscrew and remove the adjuster. You can see from the last pic how the adjuster works. It decreases the size of the pathway where the fluid travels increases the pressure required for the fluid to flow through the path.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]5143[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]5144[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]5145[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]5146[/ATTACH]
Again, take note of the the location of these 2 orings that will be replaced.
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Just for reference, here is a pic showing the pieces and locations of the orings to be changed.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]5147[/ATTACH]
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Step 5: Wash all parts in warm water and soap.
Step 6: replace all orings, lubricating them first. The directions from CCP say to make sure to use a hydraulic oil. Lubricate the orings with the oil as well. I chose to use hydraulic jack oil. I think this is close enough to use for this purpose. UPDATE: USE HYDRAULIC FLUID ISO 46 OR SAE 20W FORK OIL. THE HYDRAULIC JACK OIL IS SAE 10W. IT'S NOT QUITE THICK ENOUGH FOR GOOD SUCCESS.
(http://forums.trx250r.org/vbulletin_imports/100_2110_2017-04-18_902.jpg)
Step 7: Put the center piece back in by twisting the piece back and forth while pushing downward towards the round. *Note: this is a booger to do.
Once I got it pushed through, it shaved a little piece of the black seal off.
(http://forums.trx250r.org/vbulletin_imports/100_2111_2017-04-18_1881.jpg)(http://forums.trx250r.org/vbulletin_imports/100_2112_2017-04-18_8746.jpg)(http://forums.trx250r.org/vbulletin_imports/100_2113_2017-04-18_9202.jpg)
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Step 8: Screw the adjuster knob all the way in and then back out to setting #8; then fill up the puck most of the way with hydraulic oil.
(http://forums.trx250r.org/vbulletin_imports/100_2114_2017-04-18_5877.jpg)(http://forums.trx250r.org/vbulletin_imports/100_2115_2017-04-18_2750.jpg)
Step 9: Re-install the backing plate making sure you line up where the dowel locations are. Install the 12 allen bolts and tighten them (instructions say torque to 5.5 ft lbs).
(http://forums.trx250r.org/vbulletin_imports/100_2116_2017-04-18_2691.jpg)(http://forums.trx250r.org/vbulletin_imports/100_2117_2017-04-18_8198.jpg)
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Step 10: Make sure upper oring is in place and install upper arm with it's 2 allen bolts. *Note: this oring doesn't seem to fit very well into it's gland, so be careful to make sure it doesn't get squished out of the side when you install the upper arm.
(http://forums.trx250r.org/vbulletin_imports/100_2118_2017-04-18_351.jpg)(http://forums.trx250r.org/vbulletin_imports/100_2119_2017-04-18_1626.jpg)
Final Step: Rotate arm back and forth slightly to squeeze the air out (per CCP's instructions). When the force required to twist the arm starts to get weak, remove the adjuster all the way out and add a drop or two of oil and repeat this step again until stabilizer is very consistent. According to instructions, do not over fill; a little bit of air is ok.
Final notes: This is just a guideline for doing this rebuild, you should still read CCP instructions for yourself if you do this rebuild. Hopefully, if I have given any bad information, then [MENTION=4]motofool250r[/MENTION] will correct me.
If you have any questions, feel free to ask them now.
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looks great man
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good info... thanks for taking the time to do this!
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good info... thanks for taking the time to do this![/QUO
It took quite bit of time to do all the pics while trying to keep my phone clean,lol, but I am happy to do so. I think it will be helpful with the popularity of these stabilizers. Maybe it will help someone someday.
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I like this.
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Post #4 and #5 pics aren't opening for me. Anybody else have an issue?
This is good info!
Thanks for sharing! :applause:
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Not sure why some of the pictures are not working now. So I have uploaded all the pictures here in order from step 1 - finish. If for some reason it doesn't show up that way, may sure to sort from oldest to newest.
http://tinypic.com/a/34npw/2 (http://tinypic.com/a/34npw/2)