TRX250R.ORG
Workshop => Engine and Bottom End => Topic started by: travs250r on May 31, 2014, 03:04:11 AM
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Can anyone out there help me out? I own a 1986 Trx250r. I haven't rode this bike for around a year and just decided the other day to do a tune up before I start using it again. There has been a small oil leak on the right side case, and my clutch seamed loose so I purchased a new gasket and clutch cable to start. Replaced all of the parts changed the oil with Honda OEM oil and put the bike back together. Took it out for a quick ride around the neighborhood and the clutch wasn't engaging. No bid deal ordered a clutch kit with new steels, fibers and springs, soaked the parts in oil before installation and before I put the cover back on decided to test to see if the clutch would disengage nope... Removed the lifter and clutch actuator. The steel ball in the lifter was not there must have been grinded up or something I don't know?? also there was some wear on the actuator arm so I tig welded and filled the ware spot grinded back down to match the old profile. Ordered a 89' lifter kit with new pressure plate installed everything and it is still not working. I have a new actuator arm on order, that was a pain to find since Honda no longer makes that part... It doesn't make sense the lifter works when the springs are not installed. I tried using the original springs and the new springs both sets measure out correctly. Any suggestions????? I am frustrated and tired of throwing parts at this bike.
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[MENTION=9]Pumashine[/MENTION], sounds like he needs the actuator shims
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Can anyone out there help me out?
Yes, you have come to the right place. we have all the info you need. We have a search function near the top of the page on the right. The thread name is the same as the one you just posted :lol: We spent 2 to 3 weeks going through the problem you described. http://trx250r.org/threads/2857-Clutch-problems!?highlight=shims The solution is posted on post #29. Please read through the whole thread so you get a better idea why this is happening. If you have any questions just ask. There is always someone on here to help out!
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Hey guys thanks for the quick response. I didn't even notice there was another issue similar to mine. Anyways as I was saying I hadn't rode the quad for a year or so and the old clutch worked fine prior to that. Even when I pulled the old parts out they looked decent and not terribly worn. I don't know if the shims will solve the problem but I will try.
Reason being is without the springs everything functions correctly, once I install the springs the actuator arm won't move at all. I think it has something to do with the actuator clutch arm. I'm just going to wait until the new one arrives on Thursday. I guess patients is the key because everytime I have to order a new part it puts me out another week. My clutch basket has a little play do you think that has anything to with the problem or is that normal? If the new actuator doesn't work any ideas where I can get the correct size shims?
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If the new actuator doesn't work any ideas where I can get the correct size shims?
I made up about 10 sets of the shims. (http://i62.tinypic.com/1j5jlz.jpg) If you need them you can PM me here.
The play in the clutch basket is completely normal. The arm not moving after the springs are attached may be a problem. After the springs are attached you cannot move the actuator arm by hand. It has to have the clutch lever and cable hooked up to move. As you pull the lever the arm should twist. When you let go the springs are pushing it back to the original location. The only thing I can think of that it does not move that it is bent somehow. Also look at the actuator arm the cable attaches to a little pivot bracket. The pivot bracket is attached to a Z shape piece of metal. The top and bottom of the Z should be parallel to each other.
(http://i60.tinypic.com/4lhzr7.jpg)
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Ok wasn't aware that you can't move the clutch arm by hand after the springs were install. My clutch arm looks in tact on the upper portion. I did tig weld the lower part because it was really worn. You had mention you did the same thing in the past and the weld didn't hold so thankfully I was able to find another clutch arm to try once it get here. I didn't realize these clutches were such a problem on these quads. I replaced the bottom end on my CRF450 without any hiccups.
Again thank you for the advice I'm glad there are people out there with answers. The mechanics where I live hardly even know what a trx250r is.
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I made up about 10 sets of the shims. (http://i62.tinypic.com/1j5jlz.jpg) If you need them you can PM me here.
The play in the clutch basket is completely normal. The arm not moving after the springs are attached may be a problem. After the springs are attached you cannot move the actuator arm by hand. It has to have the clutch lever and cable hooked up to move. As you pull the lever the arm should twist. When you let go the springs are pushing it back to the original location. The only thing I can think of that it does not move that it is bent somehow. Also look at the actuator arm the cable attaches to a little pivot bracket. The pivot bracket is attached to a Z shape piece of metal. The top and bottom of the Z should be parallel to each other.
(http://i60.tinypic.com/4lhzr7.jpg)
nice work with the sharpie
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you may have raised the profile of the arm to much and when you tighten the springs down they are already in coil bind ,what rod are you using because if I remember correctly they are not all the same length,If Im right you should be able to push your bike in gear with the springs tightened down
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I am using an 8.40 rod from an 89' clutch lifter upgrade kit. I got it working with a new clutch actuator arm, but my clutch cable is maxed out on the adjustment.
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I am using an 8.40 rod
I believe the push-rod should measure 8.060" If yours is 8.040" them you need at least another shim in there.