TRX250R.ORG
Workshop => Engine and Bottom End => Topic started by: rjt500r on July 20, 2014, 11:28:34 AM
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pulling my hair out trying to figure out what is going on here. Have an 88 250r , started out as a stock motor, cylinder, first ride burned a hole in the top of the piston within ten minutes. Tore it completly down different set of cases, new bearings, new seals, LED ported and o-ringed the head. New V-force reeds new UPP intake, 38mm PWK 50 pilot, 180 main, DDJ 3rd clip, AV gas 32:1 w/HP2. Second trip same results ten min ride not even full throttle burned a quarter size hole in the top of the piston. Thought maybe not pulling enough fuel changed the petcock setup to the Honda CRF250x did the petcock mod to pull from both on and reserve, new piston ran 110 race fuel thinking the AV gas was the problem nope!! another less than ten minute ride 1/2 to 3/4 throttle at most torched the piston. Air leak ?? Going to try a leak down test not sure if the hole in the piston will effect the results but i don't know what else it could be even though it has all new seals. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
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Is there any coolant in it?
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I would lean towards a airleak.
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I am leaning towards YOU don't know the sound of a very hot lean running motor,,,, listen to the motor,, it will tell you when its that close to burning a hole ,,,, it doesn't sound or feel right...
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sounds like an air leak for sure. get a pic of the piston so jerry hall or rss396 can see it and they will more than likely tell you by the piston damage.
john
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Does it have the stock ignition pvl ignitions are good for doing that
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i have no experience burning hole in pistons but maybe the cdi is going bad.
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check this out:
http://trx250r.org/threads/767-piston-failure-chart
john
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is there any coolant in it?
yes
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I am leaning towards YOU don't know the sound of a very hot lean running motor,,,, listen to the motor,, it will tell you when its that close to burning a hole ,,,, it doesn't sound or feel right...
I'm leaning towards YOU don't have a clue what i know!! I'm fully aware of what a lean engine sounds like, i have burned up pistons before because of my mistakes. Maybe you should read the post again, this is happening in less than ten minutes. The damn thing is not even warm yet. There is no warning.
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Does it have the stock ignition pvl ignitions are good for doing that
Stock ignition, two different ignitions, the first i pulled out and ran it in another bike with no issues.
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What ignition is on this bike? What carb and jetting? Typically a hole in the center of the piston points to ignition being to far advanced
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sounds like an air leak for sure. get a pic of the piston so jerry hall or rss396 can see it and they will more than likely tell you by the piston damage.
john
I will post a couple of pics
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In all my LRD/LED motors, I have never ran that small of a pilot down at the Oregon dunes. The main seems to be a bit large too.
Typical jetting with no airbox lid
52pilot
DDJ in the 3rd or 4th position from the top
172-178main
Best Regards
-Jason
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Is it possible that you aren't burning holes in the pistons?? Instead you don't have the proper clearance and the spark plug is beating a hole through them?? Also do you have a temp guage?? I wouldn't think you could burn a hole in a piston before the bike has even warmed up.
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when changing ignitions out, was there anything left unchanged and what had been done to motor before the hole burning started ,was it rebuilt new crank
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The difference between a 50 and 52 pilot should not be melting down though, and if your riding not idling it really shouldn't be. I always thought it was a pain when I was younger, but I dont think there is any smarter thing you could then leak down your motor after any work has been done that could compromise sealing. I just did mine today. Thankfully it was a sealed up sunday(http://forums.trx250r.org/vbulletin_imports/486_2655_2017-04-18_4148.jpg)
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Here are the pistons. (http://forums.trx250r.org/vbulletin_imports/901_2657_2017-04-18_1375.jpg)(http://forums.trx250r.org/vbulletin_imports/901_2658_2017-04-18_1113.jpg)(http://forums.trx250r.org/vbulletin_imports/901_2659_2017-04-18_3699.jpg)The first pic was the completely stock motor with a PWK 38mm. The second one is a completely rebuilt motor different cases, cylinder work by LED, new V-Force reeds, new UPP intake, new bearings, new seals, different crank. Also here is a brand new plug completely melted down. I just did a leak down has an air leak at the stator side crank seal ( a brand new seal ). Is there more going on here though? would an air leak do that to the plug. I can't stress this enough this is happening in less than ten minutes at 1/2-3/4 throttle.
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What ignition is on this bike? What carb and jetting? Typically a hole in the center of the piston points to ignition being to far advanced
Stock 87 oem ignition. Carb is a PWK 38mm AS 180 main 50 pilot and DDJ needle 3rd clip. these are what Arlan recommended for jetting.
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In all my LRD/LED motors, I have never ran that small of a pilot down at the Oregon dunes. The main seems to be a bit large too.
Typical jetting with no airbox lid
52pilot
DDJ in the 3rd or 4th position from the top
172-178main
Best Regards
-Jason
The jetting is per Arlan at LED. He did the port work on my cylinder. It will probably need some fine tuning, but can't really do that when it's burning up pistons in 5 to 10 mins.
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Is it possible that you aren't burning holes in the pistons?? Instead you don't have the proper clearance and the spark plug is beating a hole through them?? Also do you have a temp guage?? I wouldn't think you could burn a hole in a piston before the bike has even warmed up.
No it's clearly burning through the pistons. No you would not think it would burn up a piston before its warm but thats exactly why i'm posting this. Any of the Oregon riders would be familiar with Sandlake, I was parked at the west wind parking lot, started the bike rode through the parking lot to the sand went half way or less to the beach turned around and went a short distance back and then towards the beach again and lost the piston. This all happened in a few minutes 5 to 7 no more than ten. At half to maybe three quarter throttle.
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The porcelain is broken off the spark plug so some detonation was happening but that more than likely was caused from to much timing and/or to lean of needle
I would try a differant CDI and a richer needle
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when changing ignitions out, was there anything left unchanged and what had been done to motor before the hole burning started ,was it rebuilt new crank
I bought the bike in Feb it has never ran longer than ten minutes without burning up the piston. Yes it has been rebuilt, my original post states that. At this point the only things that have not changed are the carb and cylinder.
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the piston exhaust side skirt on the left piston does not show major signs of being lean so I tend to believe that ign timing is advance possiably because of a bad CDI.
This does not mean you dont have to add more fuel also, but IMO it sure looks like it may have to much timing
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The difference between a 50 and 52 pilot should not be melting down though, and if your riding not idling it really shouldn't be. I always thought it was a pain when I was younger, but I dont think there is any smarter thing you could then leak down your motor after any work has been done that could compromise sealing. I just did mine today. Thankfully it was a sealed up sunday(http://forums.trx250r.org/vbulletin_imports/486_2655_2017-04-18_4024.jpg)[/QUOT
Agreed I will make it a point to do a leak down every time i do an engine rebuild. Cheap insurance for sure.
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the piston exhaust side skirt on the left piston does not show major signs of being lean so I tend to believe that ign timing is advance possiably because of a bad CDI.
(http://trx250r.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=5794&d=1405902125)
This does not mean you dont have to add more fuel also, but IMO it sure looks like it may have to much timing
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The porcelain is broken off the spark plug so some detonation was happening but that more than likely was caused from to much timing and/or to lean of needle
I would try a differant CDI and a richer needle
You can't see it in the pic but the plug is white. I did find the stator side crank seal is leaking air. I do have another cdi to try.
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I think it's ignition and your air leak. The normal Arlan jetting is 50-52 pilot dej needle in the 4 clip and high 160' to mid 170's on the main. Even at this a bit leaner needle still wouldn't do what's happening like Dave said the rings are free on the piston and the exhaust side of the piston doesn't show scuffing.
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I think it's ignition and your air leak. The normal Arlan jetting is 50-52 pilot dej needle in the 4 clip and high 160' to mid 170's on the main. Even at this a bit leaner needle still wouldn't do what's happening like Dave said the rings are free on the piston and the exhaust side of the piston doesn't show scuffing.
I will change the cdi and replace the seals. The jetting is directly from Arlan, the 180 is the high end but the range he gave me was 175 - 180 on the main. Like i said it will probably need to be fine tuned but i can't do that until i can keep from burning a hole in the piston.
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I know you said "stock" ignition, but is it all "oem"? Some of the aftermarket CDIs have really bad advance curves.
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I'd say ignition I've never seen a oem one do that. Can you take a pic of your flywheel and pick up coil. Maybe it has a timing advancer on it.
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Just by the looks of your spark plug, it looks like a detonation issue to me. I had a detonation issue in the past and it took the tip off the plug. The top of your piston is also speckled, which I believe is another sign of detonation. Detonation can result in significant damage quickly, which comports with the fact it only takes 10 minutes. Also, just to note something that hasn't been mentioned, you might consider your cooling system as a contributing factor, more specifically check that your impeller nut it tight. I've had that happen too. The impeller wasn't spinning, the coolant wasn't flowing, and the engine overheated, which created a detonation problem.
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If it was a fresh bore and was a heat issue wouldn't the sides of the piston be trashed? Wouldn't the piston expand faster than the bore and 4 corner seize?
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I was just reading about detonation in Alexander Graham Bell's Two Stroke Tuner's Guide. Here is a direct quote:
"Detonation leaves many tell-tale signs for which the two-stroke tuner should have an ever-wary eye. The most obvious sign is a piston crown peppered around the edge as though it has been sand blasted. Bikes with plated aluminium cylinders will usually show the same sand blasted effect around the top lip of the bore. A cracked (not molten) spark plug insulator also indicates detonation. If kept running, a detonating engine will eventually seize and/or have a hole punched right through the top of the piston. The conditions leading to detonation are high fuel/air mixture density, high compression, high charge temperature and excessive spark advance. A high piston crown or combustion chamber temperature can also lead to this condition. In a racing 13 Two Stroke Performance Tuning two-stroke all of these detonation triggers are virtually unavoidable, with the exception of excessive spark lead."
With detonation you should also be hearing a kind of knocking, i.e., the engine almost working against itself because the fuel is self-igniting too early.
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If all ignition components have been changed out and the timing looks to be most of the problem, the only thing left would be the keyway is indexed wrong on the crank,the plugs color is soot black that would make you think it wasn't lean,but yet the hole appears to be melted from preignition and not detonation, preignition can be started from a lean condition that it doesn't seem to have .Sorry just thinking out loud ,somebody jump in here edit reread post and seen new crank was used , it couldn't be keyway
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I'm sorry in my post I said a dej needle as leaner but its actually richer in the 1/2 throttle position than a dej so just like most have said you have ignition issues or air leaks. The key way on the crank isn't a bad idea to look at either.
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I think we really have preignition and not detonation
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if the carb and cylinder are the only things that haven't been changed out, that would leave the carb as the culprit.I think you have a fuel delivery problem and the bowl is going empty ,you may have good flow at the hose going to carb,but have you checked for good flow though carb.preigniion causes the piston to have a melted look and detonation would have more of a broken look.preignition can cause detonation to occur along with it
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If it is pre-ignition then you have to ask, what is the source? My understanding is that pre-ignition results from a hot spot in the cylinder, either built up carbon or a spark plug that is too hot, i.e., the wrong heat range. Pre-ignition is not due to too much advance; it is not due to an electrical spark at all. Since you have a new engine that eliminates carbon build up. Check the heat range of your plug, it should be an 8 or 9 (the higher the number the colder the plug).
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If it is pre-ignition then you have to ask, what is the source? My understanding is that pre-ignition results from a hot spot in the cylinder, either built up carbon or a spark plug that is too hot, i.e., the wrong heat range. Pre-ignition is not due to too much advance; it is not due to an electrical spark at all. Since you have a new engine that eliminates carbon build up. Check the heat range of your plug, it should be an 8 or 9 (the higher the number the colder the plug).
your understanding and mine are the same ,a lean condition is the only thing left that could get the piston glowing, most often that results in the exhaust edge being melted,the carb is the only left that has not be changed out and the piston appears to be melted and not broke
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Kind of weird, I've accidently ran mine real lean on the bottom end thinking I had it too rich at first and didn't notice any kind of damage. Could it be super retarded and rich? Sometimes that can cause extremely high temps as well.
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The carb is not the culprit, it was on my Zilla and worked fine. The CDI is also one item that has been on both engines. Here are some pics of the ignition.(http://forums.trx250r.org/vbulletin_imports/901_2661_2017-04-18_1748.jpg)(http://forums.trx250r.org/vbulletin_imports/901_2662_2017-04-18_3653.jpg)(http://forums.trx250r.org/vbulletin_imports/901_2663_2017-04-18_9154.jpg)(http://forums.trx250r.org/vbulletin_imports/901_2664_2017-04-18_3966.jpg)(http://forums.trx250r.org/vbulletin_imports/901_2665_2017-04-18_2011.jpg)(http://forums.trx250r.org/vbulletin_imports/901_2666_2017-04-18_8695.jpg)(http://forums.trx250r.org/vbulletin_imports/901_2667_2017-04-18_9651.jpg)
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You know what your squish, band width, kicking compression was before you ever even fired it up? Just curious.
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I bought the bike in Feb it has never ran longer than ten minutes without burning up the piston. Yes it has been rebuilt, my original post states that. At this point the only things that have not changed are the carb and cylinder.
Im sorry but Im really lost, in this post you say that the only thing that hasn't been changed out is the carb and cylinder .now your saying It cant be carb and the cdi hasn't been changed out. What parts are the common denominator that resulted in the three pistons having holes in them. The CDI ?
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Kind of weird, I've accidently ran mine real lean on the bottom end thinking I had it too rich at first and didn't notice any kind of damage. Could it be super retarded and rich? Sometimes that can cause extremely high temps as well.
Lean coming off the pilot would cause bog but not damage motor according to Jerry Hall ,but if jetting is correct and motor is making power and it runs out of fuel that could be different.In 27 years the only time I have burnt a hole in piston was running out of fuel on the hill at Dumont.this happened at full throttle and the hole was on edge of exhaust..On car motors I have seen the results of retarded timing and that was the exhaust manifolds glowing from the fuel still burning as it went out the exhaust
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Im sorry but Im really lost, in this post you say that the only thing that hasn't been changed out is the carb and cylinder .now your saying It cant be carb and the cdi hasn't been changed out. What parts are the common denominator that resulted in the three pistons having holes in them. The CDI ?
As far as engine components, yes only the carb and cylinder have been run on both engines. I don't believe the carb is the problem because it was on two other bikes and worked fine. Now the CDI which is mentioned here in a reply has also been on both engines. I know it has an air leak, the leak down test confirmed that the stator side crank seal is leaking air. The piston damage is unlike any piston i have seen damaged by lack of fuel. By the visual damage to the piston and plug it seems like the plug is acting like a blow torch and melting through the piston. I did not take any pics the last go around but when i pulled the jug off there were little balls of what used to be the top of the piston everywhere, as if you where cutting metal with a blow torch.
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Have you verified there are no obstructions in the exhaust pipe or silencer?
I would check for air leaks, compression ratio, squish, and verify timing before I jumped on and started riding again. I had an Lt250r that burned holes in pistons like that, after the third one, I put it together with a stock piston and sold it.
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I do not have time right now to explain what is going on. You are missing something very basic that is causing some detonation, then preignition and then run-away detonation and then then blowing a hole in the piston.
Use a timing light to check the ignition timing curve.
Were you riding the engine in the medium to high RPM range with the throttle position around 1/2 throttle opening or less?
Does the exhaust system have a spark arrestor?
Have you inspected your muffler for a broken core or anything that may be offering slightly more restriction than the original design intended?
An engine that is burning holes in the piston like you have pictured was talking to you telling you what it was getting ready to do. Remember these sounds. This is detonation. Pre-ignition does not make any sounds. Remember the sounds it was making intermittently the last 10 to 20 seconds before it quit. This is intermittent detonation. Remember the tone of the engine and sound the last 5 to 10 seconds before it quit. This is run-away detonation and the engine is in the process of drilling the hole.
The 10 minutes you rode the bike had nothing to do with the failure. When you have something drastically wrong with the engine build or tune (air fuel ratio and or ignition timing) the above damage can be done it less than 30 seconds from the time the engine first began telling you what it was going to do, to the time that it did it.
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i do not have time right now to explain what is going on. You are missing something very basic that is causing some detonation, then preignition and then run-away detonation and then then blowing a hole in the piston.
Use a timing light to check the ignition timing curve.
Were you riding the engine in the medium to high rpm range with the throttle position around 1/2 throttle opening or less? Yes!!
Does the exhaust system have a spark arrestor? No spark arrestor!!
Have you inspected your muffler for a broken core or anything that may be offering slightly more restriction than the original design intended? No i have not
an engine that is burning holes in the piston like you have pictured was talking to you telling you what it was getting ready to do. Remember these sounds. This is detonation. Pre-ignition does not make any sounds. Remember the sounds it was making intermittently the last 10 to 20 seconds before it quit. This is intermittent detonation. Remember the tone of the engine and sound the last 5 to 10 seconds before it quit. This is run-away detonation and the engine is in the process of drilling the hole.
The 10 minutes you rode the bike had nothing to do with the failure. When you have something drastically wrong with the engine build or tune (air fuel ratio and or ignition timing) the above damage can be done it less than 30 seconds from the time the engine first began telling you what it was going to do, to the time that it did it.
there is no warning that detonation is happening. Arlan at led thinks this could be the risk of running av gas,as opposed to running race fuel, so this last time i ran 110 race fuel. No change, the only warning was just before it blows through the piston there is a 1/2 second raise in rpm's and then it's done.
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there is no warning that detonation is happening. Arlan at led thinks this could be the risk of running av gas,as opposed to running race fuel, so this last time i ran 110 race fuel. No change, the only warning was just before it blows through the piston there is a 1/2 second raise in rpm's and then it's done.
I have never burned a hole in a piston that I was not given ample warning.......the problem was, I did not have the experience at that time to recognize what the engine was telling me. I have made a lot of pistons look just like your pistons early in my career, before I learned to pay close attention to the slight changes in the sound of the engine and slight performance change as the process is set in motion.
The AV-gas IS NOT THE PROBLEM unless the oil you are using is not mixing homogeneously. Have you given your fuel the tried and proven "jar test"
I will ask this very important question again. Were you cruising at medium to high RPM at partial throttle?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
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Do you have one of these attached to your motor ?
(http://forums.trx250r.org/vbulletin_imports/150_2675_2017-04-18_5843.jpg)
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I have never burned a hole in a piston that I was not given ample warning.......the problem was, I did not have the experience at that time to recognize what the engine was telling me. I have made a lot of pistons look just like your pistons early in my career, before I learned to pay close attention to the slight changes in the sound of the engine and slight performance change as the process is set in motion.
The AV-gas IS NOT THE PROBLEM unless the oil you are using is not mixing homogeneously. Have you given your fuel the tried and proven "jar test"
I will ask this very important question again. Were you cruising at medium to high RPM at partial throttle?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
Jerry, let me start with saying i appreciate you and all the others who have responded to my post offering info, suggestions and solutions. I do not in any way disagree or doubt anything you have said. I did answer your questions in my first reply they are at the end of your questions in the shaded box that was your original post. I apologize for the confusion. Yes i was riding at about half throttle at medium to high rpm.
Let me also clarify the AV gas reference, Arlan did not imply that the AV gas was the cause of the detonation. He and i have had several discussions about the use of AV gas, while he believes it should work in my engine his feeling is it's marginal at best and pure speculation on his part that maybe i'm not identifying the detonation because of the AV gas.
I have not heard what i identify as detonation, pinging, knocking or rattle of any kind. Now i have only ridden this bike three times since i bought it in Feb each time less than ten minutes and each time with a piston failure. I'm not saying it's not detonating but that i have not recognized it was happening.
I also did a leak down and discovered an air leak at the stator side crank seal. I have replaced both seals, even though they are brand new and it has been holding 6lbs of pressure for the last two hours.
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how bad was that air leak? Was it not hold any pressure or how quick was the drop rate?
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Do you have one of these attached to your motor ?
(http://forums.trx250r.org/vbulletin_imports/150_2675_2017-04-18_5924.jpg)
No i do not.
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how bad was that air leak? Was it not hold any pressure or how quick was the drop rate?
It was real bad, it would leak out as fast as i pumped it in. I tore both covers off and i could then hear the air leaking out of the stator side seal.
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if that had that severe of an air leak,, refer back to my original post please,
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no need to reply to this ,but a leak that bad would have been noticed by anyone. You would not have gotten the idle to calm down. its only my opinion that the seal was damaged during the failure .An explosion entering the lower end could easily mess up some seals and I cant imagine why the new seals you had installed just before this failure would leak. .I wish the best of luck to you
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no need to reply to this ,but a leak that bad would have been noticed by anyone. You would not have gotten the idle to calm down. its only my opinion that the seal was damaged during the failure .An explosion entering the lower end could easily mess up some seals and I cant imagine why the new seals you had installed just before this failure would leak. .I wish the best of luck to you
Well it did idle, there was no indication of an air leak. it started one kick it idled just fine.
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was the spark plug loose each time the engine failed?
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was the spark plug loose each time the engine failed?
No!
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if that had that severe of an air leak,, refer back to my original post please,
Judging by your helpful, informative and positive replies, you must be the pride and joy at your professional position, at the suicide prevention hotline !
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well I did stay at a holiday inn last night... as jerry hall said.. LISTEN you can hear way more than you can feel. I have been running 2 stroke engines 45 years and I have never burned a hole in a piston of any kind,, because I learned from my grampa a long time ago to listen to the song of the motor,, it tells you everything.. it may sound funny to you kids,,, and you can say all you want ,,, it works for me...
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Wonder if its going into an overly lean condition when you're mid to full throttle cruising. Sure be nice to have a pyrometer and wideband o2 sensor to log what is going on during the failure.
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I have a data logger with wideband o2 and extra analog for tps, or egt or any analog signal I'd sell it for 250.00 never been used. Think it runs 400.00 new.
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well I did stay at a holiday inn last night... as jerry hall said.. LISTEN you can hear way more than you can feel. I have been running 2 stroke engines 45 years and I have never burned a hole in a piston of any kind,, because I learned from my grampa a long time ago to listen to the song of the motor,, it tells you everything.. it may sound funny to you kids,,, and you can say all you want ,,, it works for me...
We can go back and forth for days about this, 100 more people can post here and tell me the motor is telling you there is a problem. I too have been riding two strokes for over twenty years i have a garage full of them. I have never had this problem with any of them. I have had engines with air leaks, i have had motors that ran lean and yes i could tell that there is a problem. This engine is not doing that!! Hence the reason for my post. Thanks to all that contributed , i will figure it out i always do.
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You posted pics of your ignition, the first pic im assuming is your CDI? That doesnt look like an OEM CDI.. Id toss that thing and get an OEM replacement.
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You posted pics of your ignition, the first pic im assuming is your CDI? That doesnt look like an OEM CDI.. Id toss that thing and get an OEM replacement.
I thought so too. I just didn't want to sound dumb if I was wrong.
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Ive never seen markings like that on an OEM CDI. You will never get consistant readings while trouble shooting the engine if your using an aftermarket garbage CDI.
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Ive never seen markings like that on an OEM CDI. You will never get consistant reads while trouble shooting the engine if your using an aftermarket garbage CDI.
The CDI was mentioned, i have already got a replacement for it, thanks
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That is an OEM CDI, Shindengen is who manufactures them for Honda. Is it for sure a 250R CDI? Should have either HA2 or HB9 on the other side. I think the 400EX CDI is about the same size and has the same connectors...
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That is an OEM CDI, Shindengen is who manufactures them for Honda. Is it for sure a 250R CDI? Should have either HA2 or HB9 on the other side. I think the 400EX CDI is about the same size and has the same connectors...
And there it is !! This cdi was on one of three 250r's that i bought, plugged into the harness like it belonged there. I put it on this bike, never checking that it could be something other than a 250r cdi. The number is KKO CL-77, turns out it's for a XL200. Thanks
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And there's the holes in your pistons... Glad you figured it out!
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All you have to do is swap an XL200 motor in and you're all set!
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Using a timing light after the first piston failure would have instantly found the problem and prevented the audible hole drilling detonation on the 2nd and 3rd piston.
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Glad you figured it out.
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Using a timing light after the first piston failure would have instantly found the problem and prevented the audible hole drilling detonation on the 2nd and 3rd piston.
Yes it would have, I was thinking fuel not spark. What is it i am not hearing?? I did not hear pinging or knocking from this motor.
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All you have to do is swap an XL200 motor in and you're all set!
Haha! Wise a$$i love it! Glad you got it figured out OP.
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Glad i could provide some comic relief! feels like i have been taken out behind the wood shed about a dozen times this week!
Props to rsss396 you nailed it early on.
mx250r91 your post prompted me to do what i should have done from the start, verify the cdi was indeed a 250r unit. Thanks
Thanks to Jerry Hall who spent quite a bit of time with me on the phone yesterday, it's pretty amazing how quickly what you think you know, turns into, you really don't know after talking to someone with the knowledge and experience Jerry has. I thank you good sir, i appreciate your time!
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(http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv132/xwolver1nex/this_thread_delivers_ups_chick_amazon.jpg)
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first page i said to look into cdi. since there isnt much else that could burn a hole it only made sense :nose-pick:
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I didn't mean anything negative by my last post at all, just being a tard trying to lighten up the mood. I was really curious what it ended up being, glad you found it. It would have taken several pistons for myself as well I'm sure.
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first page i said to look into cdi. since there isnt much else that could burn a hole it only made sense :nose-pick:
Yes you did my apologies.
Thanks to all who contributed.
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I didn't mean anything negative by my last post at all, just being a tard trying to lighten up the mood. I was really curious what it ended up being, glad you found it. It would have taken several pistons for myself as well I'm sure.
No worries, i did not take anything personal from any reply on here. You put yourself out there on a public forum you will take some heat regardless. The end result is what's important with all the input the issue has been resolved.
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Using a timing light after the first piston failure would have instantly found the problem and prevented the audible hole drilling detonation on the 2nd and 3rd piston.
If we was only as smart as you Jerry. You got a 800 number we can just call you when we have problems.
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Yes you did my apologies.
Thanks to all who contributed.
i dont want credit for anything. the only thing that made sense was spark timing problem. im sure airleak would of just seized up the piston walls
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Some funny stuff in this thread for sure. I'm glad you finally figured it out. Sounds like an expensive and frustrating time you've had.