TRX250R.ORG
Workshop => Engine and Bottom End => Topic started by: Pumashine on August 02, 2014, 09:47:35 AM
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Whole motor...raw aluminium :)
Really? (pics?) Even if you had a spectacular bead bast finish wouldn't you want to put a coat a clear to keep it from oxidizing?
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(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p701/samw450r/20140505_211255_zpszqbvsf4h.jpg) (http://s1347.photobucket.com/user/samw450r/media/20140505_211255_zpszqbvsf4h.jpg.html)
[MENTION=9]Pumashine[/MENTION] What finish is this?? The only chemical I've used to clean my quad is a simple green ssolution. I just want a stator cover to match...
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[MENTION=9]Pumashine[/MENTION] What finish is this??
Ultrafine glass beads at low pressure. This is the first step of the paint or polish process.
(http://i61.tinypic.com/a1kcib.jpg)
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[MENTION=9]Pumashine[/MENTION] I noticed the middle one does not appear to say made in Japan or the gear #'s. Would you have one of those available??
Sorry for the thread jack spirit!
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Really? (pics?) Even if you had a spectacular bead bast finish wouldn't you want to put a coat a clear to keep it from oxidizing?
Had my whole engine bead blasted 24yrs ago. I wash the engine & bike with zip wax car wash after every ride. The engines a little darker but it never oxidized. I only ride dunes with it though, never see's dirt. I pulled it out a few months ago for repairs, gonna get it bead blasted again after I split it open.
(http://i1080.photobucket.com/albums/j332/scrappyfab/DSCN0919_zps018b51dc.jpg) (http://s1080.photobucket.com/user/scrappyfab/media/DSCN0919_zps018b51dc.jpg.html)
(http://i1080.photobucket.com/albums/j332/scrappyfab/DSCN0922_zpsbc126f7b.jpg) (http://s1080.photobucket.com/user/scrappyfab/media/DSCN0922_zpsbc126f7b.jpg.html)
The cylinder & stator cover came from the motor above:
(http://i1080.photobucket.com/albums/j332/scrappyfab/DSCN0925_zpsaf0458da.jpg) (http://s1080.photobucket.com/user/scrappyfab/media/DSCN0925_zpsaf0458da.jpg.html)
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[MENTION=9]Pumashine[/MENTION] I noticed the middle one does not appear to say made in Japan or the gear #'s. Would you have one of those available??
Sorry for the thread jack spirit!
I moved the hijacked thread to this one. The 85 3 wheeler ignition cover did not have the 1-6 gear shift pattern on it. I purchased a cover from a member that had a gouge so deep I could not sand it out without destroying it. He sent me that one as a replacement. Seems it was in a fire and had rotted from the chemicals in the fire extinguisher. I had to remove the Made in Japan to try to get below the pitting. It did not work. The pits are not removable without destroying the cover. So for $60 I was sold 2 junk covers. I probably have $100 into this piece of junk. Just thought you might want it. I am told its worth $$$.:lol: I also have 5 more I paid $40 a piece for that are just a little worse. Not sure why so many people think their shit is gold. I found one today that looks to be restorable without flaws.
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Looks OK
(http://i57.tinypic.com/2i91654.jpg)
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Spent an hour cleaning and bead blasting. Looks like it needs about another 15 minutes to get the black paint out of the gearshift numbers and made in Japan. Has a small ding to the left of the Honda. Hard to find perfect ones after 24 years of riding. This should get you on your way Sam. (http://i59.tinypic.com/x0rwd1.jpg)
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I have 2 85 covers. Had another but sold it to my buddy with a motor. I would let them go for $200 each. Lol
I would trade if someone really wanted it.
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I wonder if there is a better media to blast with than glass beads with sharp edges. It would be interesting to try baking soda or walnut shells, this may leave a more closed pore surface that would be less likely to hold dirt in the pores
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I wonder if there is a better media to blast with than glass beads with sharp edges. It would be interesting to try baking soda or walnut shells, this may leave a more closed pore surface that would be less likely to hold dirt in the pores
My experience with walnut shells did not last long. The brown mud appearance on the aluminum was not the desired finish. These glass beads are not sharp. The glass impact beads are round like marbles. At low pressure they do not break apart into dust&sharp edges. The finish is very smooth unlike sand blast media. We have coarse 100 grit sharp-jet in the other media blaster. That is used to clean mild steel and rusty parts. Its the garnet we use to cut parts on the waterjet. That media tears the aluminum up and does not leave the bright finish the ultra-fine glass does. The coarser the grit and higher the pressure does leave a porous surface behind. Only use it when paint is going to be applied.
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A demo I gave a friend looking for a clean aluminum finish..
Junk cylinder..
(http://i925.photobucket.com/albums/ad97/4traxman/Iphone3s288.jpg) (http://s925.photobucket.com/user/4traxman/media/Iphone3s288.jpg.html)
After less than 2min of media blasting mainly to remove grease and flaking paint.
(http://i925.photobucket.com/albums/ad97/4traxman/Iphone3s290.jpg) (http://s925.photobucket.com/user/4traxman/media/Iphone3s290.jpg.html)
Painted with the paint I use. It's 300 degree resistant, oil, grease, mud, and fuel,resistant so stains and dirt wash right off. Plus if anything does affect it you can easily touch it up. My dads cylinders never needed anything and looked great on his banshee after 3-4years of running. I painted a friends set of cases and my dads cases and they held up really well also. Painted
(http://i925.photobucket.com/albums/ad97/4traxman/Iphone3s292.jpg) (http://s925.photobucket.com/user/4traxman/media/Iphone3s292.jpg.html)
The paint.
(http://i925.photobucket.com/albums/ad97/4traxman/Iphone3s293.jpg) (http://s925.photobucket.com/user/4traxman/media/Iphone3s293.jpg.html)
My pilot cylinder painted.
(http://i925.photobucket.com/albums/ad97/4traxman/pilotmotorpics003.jpg) (http://s925.photobucket.com/user/4traxman/media/pilotmotorpics003.jpg.html)
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Thanks Damon for the demonstration. Cylinders are very porous so no need to worry about which media you are using. The clear plasti coat is the one thing that I am trying to convey to everyone to use. Any dirt or grease will easily wash off and still give you that raw aluminum look. The cases in post 5 shows the oil and dirt that is really soaked into the porous surface. The clear paint fills in the porous surface to give you a flat surface that can easily be cleaned with soap and water.
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What about a dine silver base coat with a flat clear you would get something similar I'd think. Maybe I'll play in the garage see what I can come up with
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What about a dine silver base coat with a flat clear you would get something similar I'd think. Maybe I'll play in the garage see what I can come up with
Painting the parts silver is real close. If you needed to hide some discoloration or if all the finished parts are a shade different you can get a consistent finish with paint. But I think Sam wants to match all the aluminum he has already on the bike. The pic below shows 3 stator covers. The 2 above are done with a fine glass bead at low pressure. The one below is blasted with sharp sand at a high pressure. The bottom one is a bit darker in color. The ones on top are a bit lighter in color and have sort off a shine to them. Sam is gonna have to figure out how his other covers/cases were finished to get an exact match.
(http://i58.tinypic.com/mcc1gn.jpg)
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The cases in post 5 shows the oil and dirt that is really soaked into the porous surface. The clear paint fills in the porous surface to give you a flat surface that can easily be cleaned with soap and water.
That's exactly why I go this route, it cleans to look like fresh bare aluminum for a long time. Anymore, I just want to ride with the least cosmetic maintenance.