TRX250R.ORG
Workshop => Carburetor, Intake, and Exhaust => Topic started by: udontknowme on July 13, 2013, 11:47:58 AM
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i was hoping we could make a discussion post about different peoples methanol setups. like how you have eveyrthing plumbed in etc etc. what pet**** you using and how you installed in to the tank, the size and type of fuel line and where to buy it, quick disconnects, fuel pump.
trying to setup mine but not sure exactly what parts i need. was thinking a pingle guzzler 3/8 NPT inlet then screw it in the bottom of the tank i guess where the stock pet**** used to be and one oulet from the pingle in either 3/8 or 5/16 size. my pump is the black mikuni with 2 outlets so i figure i just put a T in it to merge both outlets together. not exactly sure where to mount the pump though. and maybe a quick disconnect or some other type of fitting just after the pet**** to hook in the purge bottle ? once you purge does the gas need to be drained back out of the carb or will it fire up next time with the gas still in there ?
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I run the pingle guzzler but it still has the small dia. screen on it to fit the small hole in a Honda tank, I run a 3/8 npt guzzler on the snomoquad with dual outlets.
What I had pingle do on both my guzzlers is to give me a extra tall screen to hopefully help flow better if it starts to get a little crap in the tank.
I have also ran the standard pingle for the Honda with its really short length screen on both gas and alcohol, I cant say the guzzler has done anything for me except one less thing to worry about restricting flow.
I run I think is a 3/8 ID tygon tube from the fuel valve to the pump, and 1/4" ID from the pump to the carb. all my hoses are the largest that can be run on the fuel fittings and in fact are loose and need small plastic hose clamps to prevent leaks.
I run the Mikuni Hex black single inlet/dual outlet pump, You want to try and mount it behind and below the fuel valve but above the carburetor.
You should try and aim the vacuum port down ward so no oil builds up in the pump. You can also take the screws out and change the direction of the inlet and outlets in relation to the vacuum port that is part of the base plate used for mounting.
I have also had to in the past had to drill and tap the pump for a threaded hose fitting with a angle. if you use a angled fitting its best to just use a 45 so flow is not restricted as much, especially on the suction side
you do not drain the gasoline purge out of the bowl this gasoline will make the bike very rich when starting the bike next which is just like running the bike with the choke on and it will purge it out after a couple minutes of run time.
I bought the CPC inline white plastic purge valves but never used them because they looked to small, I just pull the hose off the fuel valve and hook it to my purge bottle.
I run tygon hose but only get 2 seasons at most and many times only one season, it tends to shrink some and get harder, I think the blue fuel hose works better but I think 3/8 is not available plus I really do not like the color hose.
I buy the tygon from McMaster
(http://www.watercraftwerks.com/images/53-3328.jpg)
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^^^same here but I still use the stock pet****. Same pump and all. I use the cast dual inlet bowl from CP. Which I believe rsss uses also.
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i have the pump already. talked to packard about the billet bowl and he said its 2" deep from the bottom of the carb to the bottom of the bowl so i gotta check if i have enough clearance. but regarding the pump ill only have one inlet to the carb so i guess ill just put a T and connect together both outlets from the pump and have 1 line into the carb ?
on the 3/8" npt pingle did you have to slightly drill the tank hole bigger and then just screw it into the plastic tank with some sealer on the threads ? what do you think of a fuel filter with 3/8" in/oulet right after the pingle instead of a tank screen ?
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anybody know where i can get the tygon F4040A yellow tubing by the foot ? every place i call wants to sell a 50' roll of the ****.
what i need is
5' - 1/8" ID x 1/4" OD
6' - 1/4" ID x 3/8" OD
5' - 5/16" ID x 7/16" OD
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think i found what i needed
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McmasterCarr
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never thought to check mcmaster. didnt know they had tygon. guess i should check out that site more often. ended up calling packard and he had all the hoses i needed. does mcmaster ship the same day ?
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I run the pingle guzzler but it still has the small dia. screen on it to fit the small hole in a Honda tank, I run a 3/8 npt guzzler on the snomoquad with dual outlets.
What I had pingle do on both my guzzlers is to give me a extra tall screen to hopefully help flow better if it starts to get a little crap in the tank.
I have also ran the standard pingle for the Honda with its really short length screen on both gas and alcohol, I cant say the guzzler has done anything for me except one less thing to worry about restricting flow.
I run I think is a 3/8 ID tygon tube from the fuel valve to the pump, and 1/4" ID from the pump to the carb. all my hoses are the largest that can be run on the fuel fittings and in fact are loose and need small plastic hose clamps to prevent leaks.
I run the Mikuni Hex black single inlet/dual outlet pump, You want to try and mount it behind and below the fuel valve but above the carburetor.
You should try and aim the vacuum port down ward so no oil builds up in the pump. You can also take the screws out and change the direction of the inlet and outlets in relation to the vacuum port that is part of the base plate used for mounting.
I have also had to in the past had to drill and tap the pump for a threaded hose fitting with a angle. if you use a angled fitting its best to just use a 45 so flow is not restricted as much, especially on the suction side
you do not drain the gasoline purge out of the bowl this gasoline will make the bike very rich when starting the bike next which is just like running the bike with the choke on and it will purge it out after a couple minutes of run time.
I bought the CPC inline white plastic purge valves but never used them because they looked to small, I just pull the hose off the fuel valve and hook it to my purge bottle.
I run tygon hose but only get 2 seasons at most and many times only one season, it tends to shrink some and get harder, I think the blue fuel hose works better but I think 3/8 is not available plus I really do not like the color hose.
I buy the tygon from McMaster
(http://www.watercraftwerks.com/images/53-3328.jpg)
did you happen to notice if the hole in your tank was 3/8 " before you put the 3/8npt pingle in ? this one is 3/8" exactlly. i figure that should have enough material for the threads to bite in and hold securely. what do you think ? did you use any pipe sealer or that tape stuff on the threads ?
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Yeah 3/8" is about right because when we were scrambling to get Troy's saber in a chassis I had a factory tank and factory valve that I removed to put a pingle on, I had both a spare 3/8 npt and the smaller Honda style, I thought about tapping threads into the tank but it was not mine.
The problem with the pipe threads in plastic is it may get loose and leak with temp changes or vibration. Alcohol is hard to find something that does not dissolve it or break it down
My snomo quads tank with a 3/8 threaded bung is aluminum along with the rest of the tank
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any clue what needle this is ? heard alot of talk about pe1 but i dont know how to tell. also it measures 52.5mm from the tip to the base where it goes into the slide. does that sound about right for a strating point ? ?
(http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j357/doddledo/IMG_20130716_192223_zps17da7e24.jpg) (http://s1081.photobucket.com/user/doddledo/media/IMG_20130716_192223_zps17da7e24.jpg.html)
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mine is a pe1 but I dont think it matters to much because that groove cut in the needle is done by packard so what ever the needle was it isnt anymore
My needle is set at 50.5mm on the 50mm, but I run them rich
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any idea what cable i need for a twist throttle on a bike ? the end where it hooks to the slide appears to be different than the keihin cables.
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Packard builds them but you have to run a certain magura twist throttle
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ok. the oem throttle on this bike is magura. does it have to be a special one or you think the one i got will work ? i can take a photo if you need to see it
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give Packard a call I have not seen one but I did ask about one for a customer
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i learn something new eveyday. aparently motion pro makes custom cables to any length with any type of end connections to fit pretty much any throttle and carb. so ill figure out exactly what i need and give em a call.
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Terry Cable can do the same. Plus you can get them in a steel braided in different colors.
http://www.terrycable.com/
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terry cable was the only place that I have been able to talk with someone to build a special cable and willing to do it without having to send them the cable, The only thing is twice I asked for the standard cable with chrome or stainless ends and they said OK but sent me standard zinc hardware
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ill make a few calls tomorow. should be simple to figure it out. cant recall off the top of my head but i think i just need a barrel on each end of the cable, the sheath will be close to same length as stock then i just measure the length of the cable that i need. only thing im wondering is if this throttle has enough throw to open the lectron all the way ? originally it had a 38pwk. the thwist handle thing has a cam that can be set in mx or enduro positions. the enduro setting has more throw if i recall. mx setting opens a 38pwk in 1/4 turn i think and enduro is 3/8 or 1/2 turn im thinking
if this throttle fully opens a pwk at 1/4 turn and the cam is bottomed out in the throttle housing, that meens it wont open 48 lectron all the way, is that correct ? since the enduro setting can twist farther ill probly have to use that ?
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Packard sells the twist throttle for 25.00 that matches the cable he makes seems like the fastest safest way to go and he is right by you
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well i learned alot more today. stock throttle and cable will work fine and opens the slide fully in 1/4 turn. but i dont like the little nipple so im gonna get a different cable with a barrel on the slide end. modified the brass thing to slide the cable through because the barrel wont go through. anyways i did some dry test runs with a old cable and it appears to work like greased lightning.
fully open at 1/4 turn
(http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j357/doddledo/IMG_20130719_000148_zpsed8224e2.jpg) (http://s1081.photobucket.com/user/doddledo/media/IMG_20130719_000148_zpsed8224e2.jpg.html)
modified the brass deal so i can use a barrel. you can see how the barrel fits in perfect. the nipple type from a pwk would work but didnt look right to me.
(http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j357/doddledo/IMG_20130718_235305_zps7b03aaf1.jpg) (http://s1081.photobucket.com/user/doddledo/media/IMG_20130718_235305_zps7b03aaf1.jpg.html)
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tomorow i gotta tackle the pingle issue. dude on the phone said the 3/8npt needs a 9/16 hole but i dont know if he knows what the hell he talking about so ill get that sorted out what size hole it gotta be. so far i got quit a few late to midnight getting this beotch sorted out and it aint over yet. not sure what the hell im gonna do with the pump. guess i figure that out when i get there
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is everyone using the metering rod turning tool from lectron or how you doing it ?
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lol, never even knew they had a tool for it. I just grab the needle and turn, make sure its facing the correct direction and your good.
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it wouldnt turn by hand thats why i wasnt sure. ill go try again maybe its just stuck
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few questions.
probly just tap in the transfer port for the vaccum. is that location as good as any other spot ?
im sure its best to keep the vaccum line to the pump as short as possible for a stronger signal but i dont know how close i can get it because im limited on places to mount the pump. im thinking 12" is about the closest ill be able to get. is that gonna work ok ?
not real familiar with these pulse pumps. i know the outlet of the pump pushes the fuel but does the inlet side have some suction to pull it from the tank ? tomorow ill look it over to find the lowest spot possible but right now i dont see no way to get it below the fuel valve. i guess gravity will push it somewhat if i dont have it mounted real high.
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12 in is fine just make sure you use a heavy gas line type hose, that way the hose does not flex with the pulses of the motor, meaning the pump will get a stronger signal.
When you mount the pump you really want to utilize gravity if you can, the pumps will suck fuel no matter where you mount it. But the best setup will have it mounted below the pet**** or at least the bottom of the tank and above the carb for the fuel line and above the vacuum port.
If the pump is mounted below the vacuum port then there is some chance of small amounts of oil building up in the pump hurting the performance. If you did a yearly cleaning of the pump then you would be fine with the amount of possible oil buildup
I always drill and tap the reed cage, I dont like disruptions to airflow to the transfers, I drill centered to the side of the V-force reeds, and if the reed cage is very close you can clearance the reed cage some and I always grind down the threads sticking into the reed area of the cylinder. I also take a countersink bit and open the very end of the brass fitting.
There is not allot of flow in and out of the fitting so do not get to worried having allot of open area on the end of the fitting
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i didnt get photos yet but i got a few things sorted out today i think. im gonna screw the pingle into a flat piece of alluminum and then mount that setup to the existing hole in the tank with the existing fuel valve screw holes. should be more permanent than just screwing the pingle into the plastic hole. screwing it into a plastic hole is probly a bad idea after i got thinkiong about it. found a good spot to make the vaccum port. side of the intake but its in front of the reeds where the cage comes to a point so the side of the cage wont get in the way. as for the pump i think ill put it in the airbox since it will be empty because ill use a pod type filter. pump will be just slightly above the fuel valve but i think the head pressure of the fuel will partially push it.
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i didnt get photos yet but i got a few things sorted out today i think. im gonna screw the pingle into a flat piece of alluminum and then mount that setup to the existing hole in the tank with the existing fuel valve screw holes. should be more permanent than just screwing the pingle into the plastic hole. i was looking at it and i doubt it would hold up very good. i found a good spot to make the vaccum port. side of the intake but its in front of the reeds where the cage comes to a point so the side of the cage wont get in the way. as for the pump i think ill put it in the airbox since it will be empty because ill use a pod type filter. pump will be just slightly above the fuel valve but i think the head pressure of the fuel will partially push it.
are you sure you dont need the adapter from ESR??? I have a plate that bolts to the tank, then you screw the Pingel into that... I can get pics if you need them??
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well thats what i was gonna make is a adapter plate. screw the plate to the tank using the existing screw holes from the stock fuel valve then screw the pingle to the plate. had some 6061 plate sitting around that should work good but maybe it would be easier to use the esr unit if it will fit. by the way this isnt a 250r its a old ktm. whats the esr adaptor look like and is it 1/4 or 3/8 npt ? ? was thinking of 1/4npt with a 5/16 outlet and hose to the pump
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Pingle sells that plate with their valves, it will have pipe threads in a plate with 2 holes so you can bolt the valve to the tank with the factory O-ring in between
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heres the tank and ill drill this hole like the green line then i mount the plate to the screw holes. atvfan the screw holes are 1-5/16 center to center. not sure what those esr ones are. they probly use large bolts though. this one is small screws. it wont be no trouble to make a adaptor plate but you think it would be fine if i used a gasket and some type of sealer between the plate and tank or even just sealer ? think i got some .010" klingersil laying around
(http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j357/doddledo/IMG_20130723_000639_zps7ffeaf41.jpg) (http://s1081.photobucket.com/user/doddledo/media/IMG_20130723_000639_zps7ffeaf41.jpg.html)
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you can try,
when we put troys saber in the drag chassis and used a tank that had been sitting around without use for 10 years the oring leaked after installing a pingle valve.
So I took a old crankcase gasket and made a oring like gasket slightly bigger than the oring and ssandwiched it between the alum plate and oring with just a little 3bond smeared on it. worked perfect for the weekend
The gasket acted like a shim to squeeze the oring harder.
If you take a hole saw and a drill press you can make a oring groove the alum plate you are making if you do not have access to a milling machine.
If the gas tank is thick enough you can oring it instead like honda does then you just use a flat plate
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mine is a pe1 but I dont think it matters to much because that groove cut in the needle is done by packard so what ever the needle was it isnt anymore
My needle is set at 50.5mm on the 50mm, but I run them rich
carb i have was from packard. needle is adjusted 2mm out farther than what you got which meens it would be leaner correct ?. do you think he set it to a certain length before he shipped it or should i put it closer to what you got and see what happens ?
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Packard usually sets them. Wouldn't hurt to richer it up though. Always better to start richer than leaner in my opinion.
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Packards usually pretty close start there or 1 turn richer and try it, every motor is differant.
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made the adaptor plate and tapped the fuel valve threads. fuel valve will be here monday then ill install everything. probly gonna use a gasket and sealer. im thinking that should work fine but if not ill look into a oring. drilled out the gas cap today to use a 1/2" ID hose. i figure that should be sufficient. what size you guys using for the breather hose ?
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1/2 inch is huge. Should have plenty of breathing room. Not sure what size I drilled mine, however I do know I still use a sr adware size hose.
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1/2 might be a bit overkill hek i m not sure. one less thing to worry about i guess. had some hose sitting around and it fit perfectly in the gas cap hole so i just drilled the center out.
(http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j357/doddledo/IMG_20130727_174246_zps3d6cb1de.jpg) (http://s1081.photobucket.com/user/doddledo/media/IMG_20130727_174246_zps3d6cb1de.jpg.html)
(http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j357/doddledo/IMG_20130727_211429_zps6dadd6cf.jpg) (http://s1081.photobucket.com/user/doddledo/media/IMG_20130727_211429_zps6dadd6cf.jpg.html)
(http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j357/doddledo/IMG_20130727_211045_zpsd263c21c.jpg) (http://s1081.photobucket.com/user/doddledo/media/IMG_20130727_211045_zpsd263c21c.jpg.html)
(http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j357/doddledo/IMG_20130727_170708_zps17094199.jpg) (http://s1081.photobucket.com/user/doddledo/media/IMG_20130727_170708_zps17094199.jpg.html)
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Well that's pretty big :). If you have issues with that setup then try threading a pipe to hose fitting in there 1/4-3/8 is normally as big as you need.
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its nothin fancy but i think it should work. made a gasket to go between the adaptor plate and tank with some hondabond or something like that and teflon tape on the threads
(http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j357/doddledo/IMG_20130729_224420_zpsf3dc2437.jpg) (http://s1081.photobucket.com/user/doddledo/media/IMG_20130729_224420_zpsf3dc2437.jpg.html)
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made the hole for vaccum. put it in location thats not obstructed
(http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j357/doddledo/IMG_20130801_000533_zps2e38ff67.jpg) (http://s1081.photobucket.com/user/doddledo/media/IMG_20130801_000533_zps2e38ff67.jpg.html)
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looks like i can use the stock airbox setup with boot,filter etc. the boot where it attaches to the back of the carb was intended for pwk with has a 2-1/2" OD bell. lectron is 2-3/8" . its not real loose but definatly i should use something to take up the slack. i was thinking to wrap some electrical or duck tape on the OD of the bell to make it alittle bigger so the boot will fit snug. think this will work fine or is there something better?
was gonna put the fuel pump in the airbox agaisnt the back wall. might sound stupid but im thinking of cutting a sqaure hole like a flap in the back of the airbox and put a hinge on it so i can open it like a door and the pump would be mounted to it on the inside. then i could open it and the pump would be out of the way to change the filter .
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changed out the bearings today. well all except the drum bearings which were still good and obsolete so theyre impossible to get anyways. i use only oem stuff. seen em go many years so theres no point in rolling the dice on oddball kits of unknown qaulity. got rid of the ball bearing behind the clutch and went with a roller style. you can sort of see the trenching. ended up with .020" at the tighest point which should be fine i hope. if not i guess it will clearance itself HAHAHAA
in the oven
(http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j357/doddledo/IMG_20130810_131443_zps308a3a0d.jpg) (http://s1081.photobucket.com/user/doddledo/media/IMG_20130810_131443_zps308a3a0d.jpg.html)
halway
(http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j357/doddledo/IMG_20130810_132111_zps2e17cdc7.jpg) (http://s1081.photobucket.com/user/doddledo/media/IMG_20130810_132111_zps2e17cdc7.jpg.html)
new bearings in
(http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j357/doddledo/IMG_20130810_150434_zpscc304170.jpg) (http://s1081.photobucket.com/user/doddledo/media/IMG_20130810_150434_zpscc304170.jpg.html)
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Looking good. What did you use to trench the cases?
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looks like i can use the stock airbox setup with boot,filter etc. the boot where it attaches to the back of the carb was intended for pwk with has a 2-1/2" OD bell. lectron is 2-3/8" . its not real loose but definatly i should use something to take up the slack. i was thinking to wrap some electrical or duck tape on the OD of the bell to make it alittle bigger so the boot will fit snug. think this will work fine or is there something better?
was gonna put the fuel pump in the airbox agaisnt the back wall. might sound stupid but im thinking of cutting a sqaure hole like a flap in the back of the airbox and put a hinge on it so i can open it like a door and the pump would be mounted to it on the inside. then i could open it and the pump would be out of the way to change the filter .
rsss suggested to me that i epoxy a piece of pipe to my carb that way i could run a larger ID filter... Which would be a lot better than using tape. :)
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rsss suggested to me that i epoxy a piece of pipe to my carb that way i could run a larger ID filter... Which would be a lot better than using tape. :)
thnx for the idea. sounds like a better idea than tape. this is my first experience with this sort of issue. you meen plumbers plastic pipe or what kind ?
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Looking good. What did you use to trench the cases?
the cases already had a factory trench so i just took it and went down another .030 or so. used a flex attachment hooked to a dremel with a sanding drum. used a magic marker and painted the area i was grinding so each pass it would grind off the marker and would keep it more uniform if that makes sense. for cases with no existing trench i would recomend having a machinist do it
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made it alittle farther and realized it was 2am. better call it a night
these are alittle different in the aspect the crank end float has to be set. book says .006-.010". gotta measure each half and the gasket then subtract your crank width. alot of headache if you dont get it right the first shot and have to pull the races back off. on paper i figured .0055" is what i had after i did all the measuring. crankworks actually set the crank .0025" wider that what i told em even though i sent a paper with specific widths of what it needed to be. i figured in some wiggle room in case they effed up. anyways this is how i measure the halfs.
(http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j357/doddledo/IMG_20130810_154623_zpsb43e83e2.jpg) (http://s1081.photobucket.com/user/doddledo/media/IMG_20130810_154623_zpsb43e83e2.jpg.html)
i install the crank and double check with a indicator just to verify my calculations on paper. indicator said .005. book says .006-.010. close enough for me
(http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j357/doddledo/IMG_20130810_220406_zps83a4a116.jpg) (http://s1081.photobucket.com/user/doddledo/media/IMG_20130810_220406_zps83a4a116.jpg.html)
(http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j357/doddledo/IMG_20130811_010233_zpse0a5079e.jpg) (http://s1081.photobucket.com/user/doddledo/media/IMG_20130811_010233_zpse0a5079e.jpg.html)
ill finish the rest tomorow
(http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j357/doddledo/IMG_20130811_020728_zps04c81016.jpg) (http://s1081.photobucket.com/user/doddledo/media/IMG_20130811_020728_zps04c81016.jpg.html)
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everyone using the m1 or different brand ? local place had some no name stuff but they couldnt tell me the manufacturer so i just went and got 15gal m1. $hit is expensive these days. same price as race gas
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i went to one local speed shop and they had some for $5 a gallon but he couldnt tell me the brand. So i end up going to another place and got VP M1 in the 5 gallon can. It was $60.
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i went to one local speed shop and they had some for $5 a gallon but he couldnt tell me the brand. So i end up going to another place and got VP M1 in the 5 gallon can. It was $60.
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I run both generic methanol and m1 and honestly have not noticed a differance. Even ran methanol sitting in my plastic cans for a month with no issues.
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My buddy buys Alky by the barrel for his top sportsman car. He has seen absolutely no difference in et running the generic down to a thousandth of a second in the quarter. The generic he runs is just over a 100 bucks a barrel.
I buy from him and run it with no issue either.
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I run Sunoco blue barrel Dynoed my bike with Sunoco and vp and there wasn't a diff
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damn thought i was gettin screwed. payed something like $153 otd for 3 pails. the generic stuff was same price only a shorter drive to get it.
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got the bottom end together but thats as far as i made it. spent alot of time inspecting every part. found a hairline crack in the kickstart shaft. ill see if i can get a pic tomorow. didnt notice at first but just happen to take a second look and seen it. would of sucked a$$ if i went to start it and the kicker broke off hahahahaa. got 2 and 3 of every part for these engines so i just grabbed another shaft out of the stock pile.
dont really care for this clutch design with no cushions and rivets but it is what it is. went with 7075 billet instead of the stocker
(http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j357/doddledo/IMG_20130811_174849_zps9f6c973f.jpg) (http://s1081.photobucket.com/user/doddledo/media/IMG_20130811_174849_zps9f6c973f.jpg.html)
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is wondering if these pumps can push the fuel up hill alittle bit ? its the black mikuni
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wasnt much room to work with so this is what i did. what you guys think ?
(http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j357/doddledo/675002_zps3b27384a.jpg) (http://s1081.photobucket.com/user/doddledo/media/675002_zps3b27384a.jpg.html)
(http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j357/doddledo/675003_zpsc7fec59d.jpg) (http://s1081.photobucket.com/user/doddledo/media/675003_zpsc7fec59d.jpg.html)
(http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j357/doddledo/675004_zps5c012276.jpg) (http://s1081.photobucket.com/user/doddledo/media/675004_zps5c012276.jpg.html)
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this was yesterday. had a old pj38 sitting in the garage so i threw it on just so i could give the bike a shakedown. didnt run that great as you can hear but really i didnt care because i was gonna put the lectron on today. only mechanical issue was the fuel valve was leaking alittle around the bolts but i put more sealer so i hope that fixes it. thnx to rsss as he gave me some pointers along the way and neels van niekirk helped me quit a bit also. alot of this engine was designed using neels program.
[video=youtube;A6ITyRamAI0]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A6ITyRamAI0[/video]
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yeah thosedirt bikes are hurting for space for any extras.
couple things that stand out just looking at the pics.
the pulse line from the motor to the pump may need to be the reinforced type especially with the added distance I use standard renforced black fuel linefrom the autoparts store
I would not run a fuel filter, the screen in the tank will be enough, filter hurt flow and the with a lectron ther is not really any small orfices that can get plugged from small dirt that may pass threw a screen in the tank
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i changed out the clear one for 1/4x1/2 fuel hose. i think its reinforced. had some white fiber stuff in the middle. should be good now
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what do you know about spraying nos on a alky motor ? just remembered this ign has 12v 130w which should be enough to power a small electric pump for a wet kit. mount a 2lb bottle on the front number plate . intake manifold is alluminum so i could tap in there for the nozzles. :smoking
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anyone got some advice for what they see from the pics and vids ? the plugs had multiple passes so maybe theyre not of much value. with both PJ open it wouldnt clean out so i kept the same plug and kept closing 1 PJ until it started to run better. seems like its in 3 turns now. runs alot better than it did at first. also im thinking the needle might be lean ? seems to zing quit a bit when you rev it up and let off. kind of looks like all the plating might be burned off but then again i did alot of runs one after another so maybe that had somethin to do with it. also there isnt much smoke
(http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j357/doddledo/672001_zps8127fa21.jpg) (http://s1081.photobucket.com/user/doddledo/media/672001_zps8127fa21.jpg.html)
(http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j357/doddledo/672007_zpsa6ccc2d2.jpg) (http://s1081.photobucket.com/user/doddledo/media/672007_zpsa6ccc2d2.jpg.html)
[video=youtube;Eiiseg-Fr_w]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eiiseg-Fr_w[/video]
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[video=youtube;YqC2I2cTjz0]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YqC2I2cTjz0[/video]
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the plug in the second picture shows heat in the motor and would not lean it anymore.
I would adjust the needle at least a 1/2 to 1 full turn in and go from there, sometimes when they are new you need a little cresent wrench to turn the needle because it being so tight.( make sure you are slightly pulling down on the needle while doing this)
If you do a half turn you have to push up and adjust the needle position so the flat side faces the reeds.
Pushing up and turning the needle is NOT adjusting the needle length this only changes the position
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heres where im at now. saturday went and tuned more by my house. turned the needle one turn richer and it sounded alittle better. one more turn it sounded even better. one more turned sounded better. so its 3 turns richer than the original 53mm length. sounded pretty good and didnt have that lean zingy sound. put the PJ all the way open then 2 turns in. you could take off full throttle and it would sound like a blubber sound for about 2sec then go like a raped ape. so i leave the carb like that and drive to the dunes 1,500' lower elev and about the same temp. now the damn thing wont run worth a crap in 2 or 3rd gears but went you hit 4 and 5th it goes like a raped ape again. 2 and 3rd gears sounds like a gas bike with main jet 10sizes to big. turning the PJ in made no difference. since i was testing on a dirt tire and switched to a paddle maybe that put a different load on the engine making it pull different amount of fuel ? this engine is confusing the hell out of me. like i said i had it working good at my house then at the dunes 2 and 3rd sounded real boggy and wouldnt go more than 15mph full throttle then hit 4 and 5th and it went like a raped ape.
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needle sound to rich , paddles put allotmore load on the bike just keep adjusting the needle until it cleans up
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probly the needle but i dont see how it could of went rich with the drop of elevation unless the tire had something to do with it. got some dunes around here to test it next time instead of dirt with knobby tire. swingarm extensions are next on the list. kept trying to flip over with the paddle