TRX250R.ORG
Workshop => Suspension and Chassis => Topic started by: engineer81 on September 21, 2014, 10:22:05 PM
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Hello. I am new to the forum and just started restoring an 1987 250R. After tearing down the rear end, I discovered that one of the bearing surfaces of the rear axle is smoked. I would like a reasonably priced fix and wondered what my options are for replacement axles. Will a 400Ex or 450R axle work? Any help appreciated. Thanks
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I am running a 400ex axle in a 250r without any issues!
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It will work. My last 86 had a 400ex axle/hubs on it. I believe they are a little narrower with this setup.
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Yes...need to run 400ex hubs. They are almost identical width. You can't run the 250r antifade unless you have 3/16 machined from the nut (at least for a RPM setup).
http://trx250r.org/threads/3000-Laeger-XC-quot-ONE-of-ONE-quot/page4
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I have a nice set of chrome 400ex hubs for sale. what I ran on my R
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So what you guys are saying is that I can use a 400EX axle but also have to use the EX anti-fade nut assembly or have the 250R one machined? Also when you talk about hubs do you mean the hubs the wheels mount to or the hubs that the sprocket and rotor mount too? Like I said I am new to the 250R world so I'm a little confused with the lingo. Thanks
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So what you guys are saying is that I can use a 400EX axle but also have to use the EX anti-fade nut assembly or have the 250R one machined? Also when you talk about hubs do you mean the hubs the wheels mount to or the hubs that the sprocket and rotor mount too? Like I said I am new to the 250R world so I'm a little confused with the lingo. Thanks
That's a big NO on the EX anti fade but yes on the EX wheel hubs. Dan may be right on the LSR stuff but I can only confirm for the RPM parts. RPM does not make a 400ex antifade and the 250r will not clear without machining. I'm 100% sure on the RPM. I spent a ton of time on the phone with them trying to have them do a run of 250r XC axles. In the end we came up with a solution to machine 3/16 from the disc side of the nut to allow enough clearance for the snap ring. BTW - the stock Honda 250r brake hub/nut setup worked fine with the EX Axle.
(http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/af169/Bnau267/Laeger%20XC/imagejpg1_zps799872fd.jpg) (http://s1004.photobucket.com/user/Bnau267/media/Laeger%20XC/imagejpg1_zps799872fd.jpg.html)
(http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/af169/Bnau267/Laeger%20XC/imagejpg2_zps00a85370.jpg) (http://s1004.photobucket.com/user/Bnau267/media/Laeger%20XC/imagejpg2_zps00a85370.jpg.html)
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RPM carriers are not OEM fitment, and I believe they come with their own brake stay. Just FYI. I had the same problem you mention on spacing when I had the tapered bearing carrier.
You might be thinking about RAD mfg with the special brake stay. The RPM double row is a direct OEM replacement. I'm running a T&T though...
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You might be right on that, I'll stop confusing the OP. I'd call Heath at LSR, super knowledgeable and will answer your questions.
Yeah. Best bet for the OP. We need to join a debate club...lmao.
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Pay close attention to the alinement of the chain.
What I found with a G Force brand 400EX axle, the sprocket hubs not machined the same (not as long) as a 250R lonestar axle & a 3/16" spacer washer will be needed between the sprocket hub & the carrier bearing, so that the chain will be in line with the front sprocket.
That sprocket hub by it being shorter, will bottom out on the seal in the carrier as well, so that spacer washer must be used to make the 400EX axle work. G Force that is.
Neil
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Well thanks for all the info/discussion about this topic. I was more or less going with a stock type set-up to keep the cost down(I'm not a racer either). I was planning on buying an aftermarket billet carrier already assembled so I don't have to mess with the bearings. Aftermarket axles are very pricey so probably off to ebay for a good used axle/hubs. If anyone knows where I can get a fair deal on an axle please let me know. I would prefer a 250R axle over the 400EX one (to eliminate any issues and reuse my hubs) but would take either if the deal is right. Thanks
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Pay close attention to the alinement of the chain.
What I found with a G Force brand 400EX axle, the sprocket hubs not machined the same (not as long) as a 250R lonestar axle & a 3/16" spacer washer will be needed between the sprocket hub & the carrier bearing, so that the chain will be in line with the front sprocket.
That sprocket hub by it being shorter, will bottom out on the seal in the carrier as well, so that spacer washer must be used to make the 400EX axle work. G Force that is.
Neil
Just measured my setup vs the OEM R an you are correct on the chain alignment. Guess I'm calling RPM tomorrow to have then machine 3/16" from the carrier side of sprocket hub where the chainring bolts up. This should fix the alignment. Glad [MENTION=1050]engineer81[/MENTION] started this thread.
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Just measured my setup vs the OEM R an you are correct on the chain alignment. Guess I'm calling RPM tomorrow to have then machine 3/16" from the carrier side of sprocket hub where the chainring bolts up. This should fix the alignment. Glad [MENTION=1050]engineer81[/MENTION] started this thread.
No, all you need is that 3/16" machinery washer to put between the sprocket hub & bearing to space the axle out. Whole lot cheaper than having that carrier machined. Now you could just pop the seal out of the carrier, if the bearings is a sealed bearing & the hub might clear, but you'll still have the chain alinement deal.
That is on a G Force axle though. The sprocket hub, how it is machined where the seal touches, it is flat & then has a curve like to it when it gets to the part where the sprocket bolts on & in that curve is where it will touch the carrier.
Neil
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The 3/16 washer would be placed here? Would that effect where the bearing race and dust seal, would sit on the axle? I need to replace my LSR axle. Them new are taxing! The Tusk brand could provide.
(http://i532.photobucket.com/albums/ee328/RideRed187/250R%20Pics%20Parts/6BF63215-5AF4-46EF-B10C-86C59DDDC05B.jpg)
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I have been running a tusk axle on my trx450 for around a year. no problems. have heard the sprocket hub is weak but have not had any signs of it getting loose.
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I have been running one on my 450R for years, as well. No issues, chrome is like new! For the trails small jumps, hard to beat.
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That is correct Fred, where your showing, because if you dont put that 3/16" spacer on the axle, the chain will be just a bit out of aline with the front sprocket. If that spacer not used, it might run like that ok, but would probably wear the sprockets more on one side & a lot more attention would need be paid to keep the chain tight.
On my daughters R, hers has a chain guide on the swingarm & the chain was out of aline enough it was rubbing one side of the plastic guide.
What are those 400EX Tusk axles going for now ?.
Ohhhh, you'll also find even with using the extended type 400EX hubs, the 400EX extended axle is 1" shorter than the Lonestar +4. That 1/2" narrower on each side didnt bother us though, just tightened the ol girl up in the corners a bit more.
Neil
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Thanks Neil. They still cost $200.
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Shucks, they not gone up very much then, cause that one I got was $180.00 to my door & did ok so far.
Neil
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I would like to share my setup and possibly point out possible flaws in what was mentioned previously. I am running a LSR 400ex axle in my 250R. To use the 250R anti fade I did not machine the disc side of the hub, if you do so the disc moves towards the swing arm...which will ruin disc to caliper alignment...I machined the back of the anti fade nut itself and the large threads that go inside the nut...this gives you clearance for the circlip and doesn't affect brake alignment. This setup does not require a washer on the sprocket side either.