TRX250R.ORG
Workshop => Body and Controls => Topic started by: engineer81 on October 01, 2014, 11:37:32 AM
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OK. So while I'm waiting for some parts to arrive I decided to remove the broken stock headlight on/off switch. The lights are gone and the previous owner installed a tether kill switch. So I removed the gas tank and found a ball of wires, tape, and connectors going everywhere. Does anyone have a simple wiring diagram or explanation of how I can clean up this mess? All I need is the tether, I don't plan on ever putting lights back on this machine.
Brad
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if you need any more let me know
(http://forums.trx250r.org/vbulletin_imports/190_3297_2017-04-18_1975.jpg)
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if you need any more let me know
(http://forums.trx250r.org/vbulletin_imports/190_3298_2017-04-18_2212.jpg)
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Do you have a simpler diagram say for a race setup w/o lights. All I want is a kill switch and eliminate all the excess wiring. Just curious. Thanks
Brad
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Do you have a simpler diagram say for a race setup w/o lights. All I want is a kill switch and eliminate all the excess wiring. Just curious. Thanks
Brad
ya but I don't have it saved on my hard drive...its on a couple of the other site 250r sites in the sticky on atv riders and on net, under my name just google 250r schematics in color and it should come up
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Just lay that diagram DnB posted out and start eliminating the things you don't want to the nearest splice. Can hook it up and test it after each removal just to make sure something goofy doesn't happen along the way. When I switched to DC I did the ignition completely separate with a momentary push button to kill the motor and it worked out fine.
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There is a guy on the Facebook page who makes race cut harnesses if you are interested. I picked one up from him and it looks good.
I also have a mess of wires on mine so I know what you are dealing with.
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Ricky Stator was the race harness for about $70. Is the guy on Facebook cheaper?
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60.00 shipped if I remember correctly.
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Thanks for the info.
Brad
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Does this help ?
:)
(http://forums.trx250r.org/vbulletin_imports/150_3324_2017-04-18_7440.jpg)
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Or this..... :)
(http://forums.trx250r.org/vbulletin_imports/150_3325_2017-04-18_8137.jpg)
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Or this..... :)
(http://forums.trx250r.org/vbulletin_imports/150_3325_2017-04-18_3085.jpg)
this one still has the regulator...in case at some time you want to run lights....but for full race you don't need the yellow wire or the reulator
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Just what I was looking for. Thanks y'all
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this one still has the regulator...in case at some time you want to run lights....but for full race you don't need the yellow wire or the reulator
I'm not an electrical wizard by any means....so if there are any here, please comment.....But I thought if you have a power wire that is live....it needs to go to a source be it a LIGHT or a REGULATOR.....or you'll strain the coil.
I guess if you're never going to run lights....this would be ok....but could it cause a spark if not sealed off correctly ?
:( That would be very bad.
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the regulator is only for auxiliary circuits (lights) it has no effect on the coil and can be left in the harness and plugged into when you want to use lights by just simply unplug the connector at the stock light switch location in harness and use the yellow wire to feed a toggle or any switching means and run lights as long as they are not above around 65 to 70 watts...
but yes it would be good to insulate the live end when not in use
in the stock stator you can see there are 2 distinctly different sets of windings one set for the cdi to coil for high voltage spark,, and the others are for lights and what ever you want to setup if clever ...but 2 separate sources completely ... you can just about fry your stator lighting coils and still not change the way the quad runs
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the regulator is only for auxiliary circuits (lights) it has no effect on the coil and can be left in the harness and plugged into when you want to use lights by just simply unplug the connector at the stock light switch location in harness and use the yellow wire to feed a toggle or any switching means and run lights as long as they are not above around 65 to 70 watts...
but yes it would be good to insulate the live end when not in use
in the stock stator you can see there are 2 distinctly different sets of windings one set for the cdi to coil for high voltage spark,, and the others are for lights and what ever you want to setup if clever ...but 2 separate sources completely ... you can just about fry your stator lighting coils and still not change the way the quad runs
Good to know! Thanks for the info....I HATE electrical problems.....little gremlins that you can't SEE!
:)
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Thank you guys for this info, I was just about to ask this same question.
Can you just fill the removed connections from the CDI box with silicone?