TRX250R.ORG
Workshop => Suspension and Chassis => Topic started by: mandom250r on January 22, 2015, 05:34:45 PM
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Does anyone know who can fix this? Or can it be fixed? Had a talk with arlan and he had no clue lol
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Grind and smooth old welds. Get an aluminum spacer. Reweld spacer in correct place. Now tap the hole. Tapped aluminum is easily stripped out. I would install a metal insert such as a timesert so the bolt used will not pull out.
Easy fix just need the right tools.
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Arlan said these chassis are shot peened and heat treated. He said to do it right you have to heat treat it again because thats what makes the aluminum strong. He also said that if it was his he would just do a quik weld and use it like that lol
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Not really too concerned about the fender mount hole but i dont like that crack on the weld.
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Oh I see the crack now. I didn't enlarge the pic. Drill a small hole at each end of the crack. Clean out the crack and make a nice V for the new bead penetrate. Hit it with a map torch to heat it the weld in a new bead.
BAAAM!!! GO RIDING!!!
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Oh I see the crack now. I didn't enlarge the pic. Drill a small hole at each end of the crack. Clean out the crack and make a nice V for the new bead penetrate. Hit it with a map torch to heat it the weld in a new bead.
BAAAM!!! GO RIDING!!!
lol i wish i had some skills but i need this done right. Its going to be a duner again and i cant ride hard anyway but it will make me feel comfortable.
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Reweld and heat treat is best and correct solution. I'd weld gussets in at the same time.
Best regards
-Jason
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Reweld and heat treat is best and correct solution. I'd weld gussets in at the same time.
Best regards
-Jason
yup, you know anyone that does this kind of work? How much would it be?
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I would check locally with anyone working with aluminum to find someone to heat treat. Contact metal suppliers, machine shops, fabrication shops or metal finishing shops (chrome or anodizing shops). Someone has to know in your area. Big ones I know of are Sapa and Anodizing Inc, but they are in the NW and are production shops, might not do small quantities. I believe it was Sapa that was doing the LRD frames when they were in production.
Best regards
-Jason
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You will need a steel jig or fixture to hold the aluminum part to keep in alignment to maintain it's dimensions while heat treating. Aluminum is typically expensive to heat treat because of the hours of "oven time" and the size of the oven needed to hold the part and oven fixture.
Aluminum parts are unlike steel parts. Steel parts can have an infinite structural life as long as the part is never stressed or flexed past it's elastic region. Aluminum has a limited life span. Every time an aluminum part is flexed any amount it is one "flex" closer to failure. Flex the part very little and you will get many little "flexes" before it fails. Flex it a lot and the life is short.
Has your part reached its reached the end of its life span where the metal is fatigued everywhere and will continue to crack in other places or was it not welded properly when it was made.
I would follow Arlans advice and just weld it and hope for the best.
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You may be able to clean the anodize off and fuse weld that crack to get buy or just grind it all and re-weld it, I wonder what filler they used. It's about impossible to get an aluminum weld to hold in a higher fatigue type application like frames unless it is horribly over designed. Like Jerry said unless it was a poor weld it's all about fatigue limit and once that number of cycles has been met it's only a matter of time. I'm doing an lrd attitude build, I hope mine is fairly fresh :/
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If you're in the Kansas area I can have it done for nothing, we do a lot of aluminum square tubing at work.
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Thanks for the advise guys! I really didnt want to hear that but i guess ill save myself some money and maybe later when im rich ill just get another frame or two :lol:.
Mr. Hall you are correct, Arlan said that after they were heat treated they would have to be bent back because they would flex with the heat. I had a feeling it would be expensive to heat treat so going with another frame would be the best idea. I really want to keep it all LRD/LED so if you also say to follow Arlans advise then thats what im doing.
This damage was caused by me getting t-boned by a truck at the dunes so im thinking theres more damage but just havent noticed. Its going to stay a duner and i dont plan on doing any competitions anyway.
Bio86 i am going to tear the bike apart and inspect the best i can. If thats the only damage i find and you think you can help me out I would like to have this taken care of asap as i already placed the order for a LED sphynx.
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What does this frame weigh bare? Stock 86 is 46lbs
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What does this frame weigh bare? Stock 86 is 46lbs
i weighed it before but i forgot. I will post a pic on a scale when i strip it down.
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elastic region of material on a stress-stain graph is where it suffers no permanent deformation, yielding is where it starts to deform/lose shape. ultimate stress is where it fails. aluminum does have a certain life, where it only can take so many cycle loadings before it fails.
I'd call around. phone calls are few for the most part. being that it is heated evenly, I am not sure it needs a jig... however when doing concentrated heat, ie welding, it would be beneficial to have a jig.
just a thought, you might want to call some of the wheel manufactures. they all heat treat
its late and I'm getting punchy.
best regards
-Jason
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elastic region of material on a stress-stain graph is where it suffers no permanent deformation, yielding is where it starts to deform/lose shape. ultimate stress is where it fails. aluminum does have a certain life, where it only can take so many cycle loadings before it fails.
I'd call around. phone calls are few for the most part. being that it is heated evenly, I am not sure it needs a jig... however when doing concentrated heat, ie welding, it would be beneficial to have a jig.
just a thought, you might want to call some of the wheel manufactures. they all heat treat
its late and I'm getting punchy.
best regards
-Jason
Thanks for catching my error. I should have said past the elastic region for and not into the elastic region I will edit my post and make the correction.
I should proof read my post before pushing the post button.:witless:
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its all good. you have brought a lot of knowledge and good advice to this site. it it's appreciated
best regards
-Jason