TRX250R.ORG
Workshop => Engine and Bottom End => Topic started by: countryboy9799 on January 27, 2015, 11:37:53 AM
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Hey guys,
New to the forum with a recently purchased 87 250r. I had an 86 and 88 back in the glory days of my youth so I know these quite well. The 250r I purchased runs good, needs a little work like the clutch and the carb is running over and I will get to that next after the clutch.
I took the clutch apart today and the outer cage is grooved really bad. Looking for suggestions on if I should replace with a Hinson or something like that or just file it down. I am mainly looking for a nice trail riding quad so it doesn't have to be top notch either so if filing it down works that is the way I want to go. Thanks in advance.
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I should also add that the oil was very dark and crappy looking when I drained it out. The water pump bearing seems to be stiff and notchy so I think I will replace it.
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(http://forums.trx250r.org/vbulletin_imports/1262_4430_2017-04-18_7153.jpg)Hey guys,
New to the forum with a recently purchased 87 250r. I had an 86 and 88 back in the glory days of my youth so I know these quite well. The 250r I purchased runs good, needs a little work like the clutch and the carb is running over and I will get to that next after the clutch.
I took the clutch apart today and the outer cage is grooved really bad. Looking for suggestions on if I should replace with a Hinson or something like that or just file it down. I am mainly looking for a nice trail riding quad so it doesn't have to be top notch either so if filing it down works that is the way I want to go. Thanks in advance.
Those plates look severely worn from the picture you've shown. You can file them down if you need to ride it very soon, but otherwise I would opt for an excellent condition OEM basket or an aftermarket.
You don't have to spend Hinson money for a basket to get higher than OEM quality and longevity. There's quite a few other quality baskets out there for much cheaper
PE, Moose, and a few others come to mind. I'm sure others will chime in
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the barnett basket with the stainless inserts on the tab faces is a good buy.
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How are the wiseco clutch baskets?
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If I'm correct wiseco baskets carry a warranty
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http://trx250r.org/threads/2231-Clutch-Basket?highlight=clutch+basket
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Well it looks like I will bite the bullet and order a basket instead of filing the ears down. So will I have to drill out the rivets in my old one to remove the gear? How is it reattached to the new basket? I hope its with bolts or something easy.
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Well it looks like I will bite the bullet and order a basket instead of filing the ears down. So will I have to drill out the rivets in my old one to remove the gear? How is it reattached to the new basket? I hope its with bolts or something easy.
1. Take a grinder and grind down the rivets on the backside of the OEM basket until you get into the thin metal plate.
2. Take a hammer and punch and hammer out the rivets, they should fall out pretty easily if you have ground down far enough
3. After the thin metal plate breaks free the big gear should come free pretty easy, save the rubber pieces
Your new basket should come with all of the instructions you need. Usually hex-head screws are used to reattach the gear to the new basket. Make sure to use loctite on the screws
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It also appears that some of the clutch baskets need cushions, bolts and ect. Anyone got a link to steer me in the right direction so I get all the parts I need?
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save the cushions from ur old basket when u cut the gear off, reuse the cushions on ur new one when u bolt your old gear to your new basket
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I found this one but I don't know if it has everything I need.
http://www.amazon.com/Barnett-Billet-Clutch-Basket-321-35-01005/dp/B0041QKU3G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422456302&sr=8-1&keywords=321-35-01005
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I found this one but I don't know if it has everything I need.
http://www.amazon.com/Barnett-Billet-Clutch-Basket-321-35-01005/dp/B0041QKU3G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422456302&sr=8-1&keywords=321-35-01005
You must take the gear off the old basket and install on the new one. This is done on after market baskets. This add is for the basket only. Friction disks should be gotten OEM.
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Ok so if I take the gear and cushions off my old basket is there anything else I would need like screws or bolts? My clutch plates speced out good.
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The mounting hardware is supplied and locktight. Its supposed to come with a drill bit that my kit did not have. You must press your splined center gear into the middle of the new basket. It was a too tight fit. I used an arbor press.
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When I moved the gear from my OEM basket to my Hinson basket there was no pressing involved whatsoever. Just grind the rivets off and punch them out
All other bolts and necessary hardware were supplied.
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I ended up ordering this basket, seemed like the best deal
http://www.amazon.com/Barnett-Billet-Clutch-Basket-321-35-01005/dp/B0041QKU3G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422456302&sr=8-1&keywords=321-35-01005
I ordered the gaskets from my dealer as they were priced pretty close and I can get them faster.
Thanks
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So I have the starter gear ready to go on but it's very tight. I put the gear in the freezer and will heat the basket at 200 in the oven if that's correct? Do I need a press or can I use a vice or a wood block with a hammer? I don't have a hyd. press.
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Yes, it seemed a bit to tight. I have a arbor press which is hand operated. A vice should work but you have to worry about the alignment. Getting it started will be the tricky part. I am sure a vice will squeeze it together.
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So did you heat your basket and freeze the gear?
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Yes, I burned my fingers. Make sure to have some gloves to hold onto it. I did not do the freeze part cause it was already cold in the shop. 200 works but 400 makes it a bit easier. But a pain to work with.
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Thanks for the tips, 200 sound about right?
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Thanks for the tips, 200 sound about right?
Yes but depends on the room temperature. When I polish in the cold, aluminum does not stay 200 for very long. I set my oven on 250 just to make sure.
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400 sounds hot, I'm worried the rubber cushions might melt.
My dad has a 20 ton press but he's 100 miles away. I'll give the vise a try tomorrow.
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Well I got her together. I wish I would have made another heavy washer from the flat iron instead of using washers. On the gear side I used washers but it didn't start straight so I had to turn it over and put a block inside the basket, turn it over and pound on the gear to get it straight. I managed to pound it on all the way and so far it looks good. I just hope I didn't warp it or anything.
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I just hope I didn't warp it or anything.
I guarantee you this is the way we all felt after getting the gear on. Seems it would have been a little looser. This concept you are using has been used when putting the water pump bearing in also. Some guys will only use this method.
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Well that makes me feel better. It seems flat on the wife's dining room table lol. If I had to do it again I would definatly use 2 of those pieces of flat iron that I made, I am sure it would have stayed straighter.
Speaking of the water pump bearing, my wife is getting one today along with the gaskets. Will I need to bring the clutch cover in the house and freeze the bearing? Hopefully this weekend I will have it running, it was -15F this morning so I wont be doing any work on it anyways today.
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Speaking of the water pump bearing, my wife is getting one today along with the gaskets. Will I need to bring the clutch cover in the house and freeze the bearing? Hopefully this weekend I will have it running, it was -15F this morning so I wont be doing any work on it anyways today.
The bearing will come out pretty easy. Its the mechanical seal that has to be pressed out and back in. Pay attention which way the seal under the bearing is facing when you take it out. I think it will work either way its just hard to remember which way it came from the factory.
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I have the wp bearing out and leaving that seal in there. I think it should be fine.
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Well I have 1 problem. I cannot find the washer for the pressure plate. Could I get a machine washer at an auto parts store or am I going to have to order the right one? Really wanted to get this running today and I am so close.
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I have this style and the R is an 87 or at least I was told. It looks like I have the upgraded 89 clutch?
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Double check to see if its still the the pressure plate. Thats where mine always seem to end up.
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It isnt on the pressure plate, I bet it fell off when I had to move it. We have used a magnet all over the gravel floor and cannot find it. Found one washer and I thought I hit the jackpot but it was to small. Do you know about how thick it is?
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Well after further investigation I dont think the 87 used a washer, it was 88 and later so what do you guys think? Just put it together without a washer?
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The 87 does not have the needle bearing. The lifter is completely different. If you can take a pic of what you are working with it is easier to tell if it will work or not.
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Just got home and took some pics.(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/07/04d2306b80f8ff94dbf98f3e9e0d5cf8.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/07/d9d3f118ca3670a31b03b7dc73ffc9d4.jpg)
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Yea, you do need the thin steel washer to go between the roller and the pressure plate. That is the '89 style, or update that you have there.
Did your slide make it to you ok?
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Do you know about how thick it is?
It is .030" thick which is super thin. And it looks like its still there in the pic.
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Yea, you do need the thin steel washer to go between the roller and the pressure plate. That is the '89 style, or update that you have there.
Did your slide make it to you ok?
The slide made it here on Friday, thanks a bunch. Man that washer blends in and sticks in there really good, it was still in there. We used a magnet on the floor for 20 minutes today. Oh well we found some nails that wont find there way into tires LOL. Well hopefully another hours work tomorrow and we should have it running, maybe a little longer. I still have to put the gas tank back on, put the carb back together and put the pressure plate back on and I should be set.
Thanks a lot guys, this is a great forum!
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Thanks a lot guys, this is a great forum!
Thats what were here for. I can't tell you how many times I looked for that washer and its just stuck in there by the oil. I make sets of these washers in different thicknesses in case your cable is out of adjustment. All you have to do is add another .030" washer and you will get all the play back in your clutch cable. Nothing to worry about unless your bike wants to take off with the clutch pulled in.
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Well thats cool, it was hiding in plain sight :excitement:
Tony had a good call on double checking in the pressure plate, it was kinda hard to tell in the pics.
Pull it though the gears a few times for me :quad:
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I see the service limits for the clutch springs are 1.77 inches for the 86 and 87 and 1.81 for the 88 and 89. I must have the 89 upgrade so I would use the 1.81 service limit? My checked out at 1.70 so I am going to be short on that. I think I am still going to put it together and try it out, if it slips I can fix that pretty easily. Would another one of those washers help since my springs are short?
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Would another one of those washers help since my springs are short?
The length of the spring is not real important. The way to stiffen them up is to put washers behind them. There is a thread on the clutch spring upgrade. The washers on the lifter is to compensate for worn push rods or the actuator arm.