TRX250R.ORG
General => Projects => Topic started by: mudbogger on March 13, 2016, 09:13:16 PM
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Hi All. Newbie here to the site, and also to my 1988 trx 250r. A bit of history behind this ride. Purchased years ago by myself for a rider, ebay purchase, had limited knowledge of these particular rides, the ATC 250R I do have much experience with. Bought and after a good hard look decided to take it apart and start over. Well life, work, marriage, etc put the project on hold, but the time has come to get it rolling again.
When I first purchased, the engine needed a rebuild, compression was not what seller stated and to be honest did not bother me, I rebuild engines all the time and if I can't my engine builder is more then happy to do for me:beguiled: so off the frame it was. Stripped it down to a bare frame, cataloged what I did not have, and had, purchased items I wanted to upgrade too, and then it sat on the shelf for all these years.
Moving forward, here is the current status. Frame had a Pumashine gusset kit welded in it. I have purchased Lonestar +2 a arms with tie rods, +2 OR +4 Lonestar steering shaft, Lonestar anti vibe, Laeger swinger, rear hubs,anti lock nut, sprocket hub, the works in the back.
CURRENTLY have engine in the frame for mock up purposes, the engine I plan on running is being rebuilt currently, nothing out of ordinary, no ECR jug or anything, just one bore up on jug, OEM Honda piston, Boyesen Rad valve, LRD expansion chamber with silencer, basic stuff.
What I am doing currently is mock up to make sure I have everything for the project, after mock up is complete I will tear it down and send what needs to go to powder coating BUT i MIGHT PAINT the stuff as well, powder I have done for years, love it but also I hate it. Have time to figure that out.
Here is a couple pictures
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Purchased a set of spindles of a member here. Weighting purchase of rad valve of just go stock reed cage as I trail ride most of the time anyway, long wide open runs not really in the areas I ride. Have all the rear components, Axis front shocks are goin g to be sent out for re valving. Stock rear is as well something I need to think about just a service as the seals are shot in it, or a purchase of a used aftermarket from a source. Any information of shocks?
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Definitely sounds like a project going on here... good start though
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Get that beast together, riding time is here!
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Looking into handlebars, and also replacing the rear shock internals as it was leaking badly. Took shock apart today, threaded tie rods and ends onto +2 new tie rods, I am not going to put the rear bearing and such together till after I get the main items back from powder after I dis assemble the TRX.
Any opinions about handlebars is welcomed, I am 6-4 225 pounds with long arms, have a anti vibe already on the stem.
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Question, on the bottom of the steering stem, is there supposed to be a flat washer under the nut to hold the stem into the bearing? Mine does not have anything, all that was there was the bearing.
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I have a washer an nut on my stem. At your height i would think a low bend would be fine , I'm 5'8 an low bend work's for me.
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Thanks, I figured as much but wanted to check. Everything on this thing is missing, or replaced with the wrong item. Shot you a text:05.18-flustered:
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Looks like a fun project. Hearing it run & being able to ride it for the first time will make the wait worth it.
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pro-Taper-Contour-Red-Fat-Handlebar-Windham-RM-Mid-Bend-1-1-8-28-6mm-Bar-Pad-/381574343599?hash=item58d79a6baf:g:nhgAAOSwiwVWR5hV&vxp=mtr
Will these bars work with the Lonestar 1 1/8 clamp I have?
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Aluminum-Airbox-Air-Box-Intake-Honda-TRX250R-TRX-250R-CFM-Performance-/152014684772?hash=item2364c80264:g:oU4AAOSwezVWy5TM&vxp=mtr
Air box I purchased some time ago as well to replace the stock one. I may just go back to the old school air box, thinking it out
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pro-Taper-Contour-Red-Fat-Handlebar-Windham-RM-Mid-Bend-1-1-8-28-6mm-Bar-Pad-/381574343599?hash=item58d79a6baf:g:nhgAAOSwiwVWR5hV&vxp=mtr
Will these bars work with the Lonestar 1 1/8 clamp I have?
They should as long as there 1 1/8 bar like your clamp
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Is this swinger a "no link" swinger?(http://forums.trx250r.org/vbulletin_imports/1710_7384_2017-04-18_7198.jpg)
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Forget the swinger question, I figured it out. I wanted to ask the group several questions- running a rad valve intake what carb air box combo are you guys using with it? I have the stock reed cage and carb combo dry fitted on the ride with all the stock rubber intakes and I am way off on the carb to jug side intake, now my garage is not heated and currently the weather is like 30 degrees so the rubber is not going to flex like it should, but it is over an inch out. Is anybody running a spacer plate with there rad valves? or stock intakes?
Also, where are you guys mounting the rese's on the front of your rides please? Any pictures?Thanks!
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i have run a reed spacer on stock reeds to make it fit . sometimes ya gotta leave the air box loose an push it to meet the rear of the carb.
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yeah, I have dealt with them in the past but the space needed to get the carb all the way into the intake is way too much-I do have a alumn BOX that I picked up off Ebay from CDR? performance but what intake do you use for it? The stock is not going to work on that box-
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That i do not know. Maybe another member will have a answer for ya.
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With all the oem intake components & airbox mounted there's a 1" gap? Got pics?
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Yeah I got it on the carb without using a spacer but then you can't get it into the rubber grommet because it is too far in, hence the question about the spacer.
I was also looking to see what was being used with the aftermarket alumn box in regards from the carb to box inlet. Is it from a 3 wheeler?
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Yes I will take a pic and post. Again the ride is in my unheated garage so the rubber is not flexible at all but the gap seems way too much.
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3 wheeler air box is totally different stock vs stock. I would think the same when aftermarket
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Pic. This is without the rubber grommet installed for the air box in the frame.
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The reed spacer will take care of that.
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Thanks for the help
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If you are wanting a rad valve. I have one that doesn't have the reeds. I would give ya a deal
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Thanks I have a valve already ready for install. My problem with that is the stock carb is way to small for it, hence the question about aftermarket carbs.
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I think they made different size boots. Trx has a smaller carb stock than cr250. Mine was marked for the smaller carb. I can take pic for you
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If I remember the cr250 rad valve was designed for a 38mm carb whereas the trx250r rad valve was made for the 35mm carb. You probably have the cr version. I have a rad valve for the trx (i think it had a 04 stamped on the side) and it fits perfect.
Sent from my Galaxy S5
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I have the CR & TRX rad valves & the valve inlets & boots were all the same & fit the bigger carbs. Boyesen might make a boot to work with the stock 34mm carb but I think 36mm is where the larger Keihin throats start & those are the standard boots on rad valves. If Boyesen doesn't make an adapter for the rad valve to stock carb you could make your own pretty easy.
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Thanks for the help, I spoke to a Boyesen rep and they indeed do make a valve for the 34mm stock carb, which is what I will order. I have the rad valve here and the spacer did indeed take all the space out.
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Ok project has basicly been completed, but I need a couple items for it:
Kick starter
snap ring for the excalibur axle, stock is what they say fits
Foot pegs
2 upper tie rods for +2 Lone star a arms, the ones that came with it do not fit the 88 spindles. Vendors that sell would be a huge help to me for this!
And finally handlebars, never got them, got 1 1/8 anti vibe LSR on the stem,any ideas are greatly welcomed for this!
Engine off/on, lights on/off full assembly, mine is toast and needs to be replaced-used is fine!
Mount that goes to the frame on the exhaust side that keeps coolant line away from the pipe.
Anybody have these items please PM me, and thanks for all the help-
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Ok project has basicly been completed, but I need a couple items for it:
Kick starter
snap ring for the excalibur axle, stock is what they say fits
Foot pegs
2 upper tie rods for +2 Lone star a arms, the ones that came with it do not fit the 88 spindles. Vendors that sell would be a huge help to me for this!
And finally handlebars, never got them, got 1 1/8 anti vibe LSR on the stem,any ideas are greatly welcomed for this!
Engine off/on, lights on/off full assembly, mine is toast and needs to be replaced-used is fine!
Mount that goes to the frame on the exhaust side that keeps coolant line away from the pipe.
Anybody have these items please PM me, and thanks for all the help-
With the 88 89 radiator and lrd pipes your pipe and coolant line will rub.
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With the 88 89 radiator and lrd pipes your pipe and coolant line will rub.
Thanks, any tips or methods to avoid burning the line? Project on its wheels off the work horses, all together but need help on 1 item, I can get any spark, checked everything, used my fluke meter for pulse generator, alternator, cdi, all the electrical components. They all checked in within tolarances. I had 1 question, I do not have the stock ignition switch, the previous owner has cut and spliced the living hell out if this harness I do have a tether switch on the bars, were does the wires off that go?
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My lrd pipe clears my hoses just fine on my 88
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I have a rad valve for the stock carb. If you want to pay for the ride you can have it. It does not have reeds on it.
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Oops guess I should of read were I already offered it to ya
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If the coolant line touches the pipe you can cut a piece of larger hose & put it between the pipe & coolant line for protection. This bandaid does nothing to keep the pipe heat from transferring into the coolant line but it does help prevent a burnt hose.
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thanks i actually did that mod and wrapped with header wrap as well.
finally got the spark to work, had to take the harness apart and re wire it����ordered a new repro off ebay to replace it in the future.
after getting spark i actua)y finished up the other little items pit the plastics on and did some compression checks, etc got 198 psi
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Glad ya got it figured out gregg. Those aftermarket cdi boxes are hit or miss sometimes causing kick back or spark issues or work fine. I would try it an not let it sit as a back up so you can send it back. Everyone perfers oem cdi.
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Glad ya got it figured out gregg. Those aftermarket cdi boxes are hit or miss sometimes causing kick back or spark issues or work fine. I would try it an not let it sit as a back up so you can send it back. Everyone perfers oem cdi.
hey rich i actually used the stock oem cdi it was good after all was said and done.
As a footnote to this project i coild have never fiinished it without your help, i appreciate your many texts and parts, guidance and just general help, thanks much sir!
next is bleed brakes, change out pads front and rear, install fresh brake fluid, nerfs, and fasten shock rese's on front of frame
, some jetting as well and new air filter.
Is there any guidelines here on setting the front end using the Lonestar +2 a arms?