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Workshop => Engine and Bottom End => Topic started by: sangheraent on April 05, 2016, 07:45:20 PM
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I am going to the dunes in 3 weeks and was going to buy a CBR or PWR radiator pretty sure its the same thing. I was going to buy it while out there to save on the tax but I will have to install it out there also.
My question is will it install easily into the factory spot? Is there any modification to the shrouds needed?
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I have one on a stock 86 frame with OMF shrouds and [MENTION=9]Pumashine[/MENTION] radiator mounts. Zero fitment issues. Obviously being an 86 frame, I needed the correct radiator hoses to make it work.
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I have a walsh frame, with a semi custom way of mounting my shrouds. my current radiator has the ends coming out and pointing in wards. I guess is that there shouldn't be any issues but I don't want to need something that I don't have there, especially since the local shop already ripped me off on my motor.
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If your current radiator inlet and outlet points inwards, I am assuming you are saying that you have an 86 style radiator. If that is the case, you will need the 87-89 radiator hoses in order to run the CBR radiator. This should really be the only change that you need to make to run the new radiator. However, since you have a semi custom way of mounting your shrouds, there's no guarantee that you won't need to do a little modding there depending on the situation.
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Are the 86 hoses just longer? Because my hoses already have a ton of slack I have them almost all the way up the radiator inlets and still there is slack.
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Are the 86 hoses just longer? Because my hoses already have a ton of slack I have them almost all the way up the radiator inlets and still there is slack.
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They route differently. I will try to find pictures.
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87-89 radiator hoses.
86-87 uses different hoses than the 88-89. Why are they listed as 87-89 are the same? Will all hoses, work on all years of radiators?
Are the 86 hoses just longer? Because my hoses already have a ton of slack I have them almost all the way up the radiator inlets and still there is slack.
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It is obvious the radiators have different inlet and outlet angles. They may work. I would like to know as well.
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Take a look at these pics in my build thread. I was converting from an 86 engine and 86 style radiator (curved inlet/outlet) to an 88 frame and 88-89 style CBR radiator (straight inlet/outlet). Take notice of the particular formed shapes and bends of the radiator hoses specifically the ones to and from the radiator.
Pics are about half way down the page.
http://trx250r.org/threads/4726-Little-Engine-That-Could-changed-to-BEAST-MODE/page3 (http://trx250r.org/threads/4726-Little-Engine-That-Could-changed-to-BEAST-MODE/page3)
Now let me find some pics of the 86-87 style radiator and hoses and you will see the difference.
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I only have one pic, but this shows the different shape in the radiator hose for the 86/87 style radiators.
Look about half way down the thread.
http://trx250r.org/threads/3189-Project-Younger-Woman/page2 (http://trx250r.org/threads/3189-Project-Younger-Woman/page2)
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On ebay they sell 1 kit for 86 to 89 is that going to work for me?
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On ebay they sell 1 kit for 86 to 89 is that going to work for me?
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I'm seeing a separation between them.
Here is 88-89
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-Radiator-black-HOSE-Honda-TRX250-TRX250R-88-89-1988-1989-TRX-250R-250-/262141032706?hash=item3d08d2b902:g:8rcAAOSwMpZUnJTJ&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-Radiator-black-HOSE-Honda-TRX250-TRX250R-88-89-1988-1989-TRX-250R-250-/262141032706?hash=item3d08d2b902:g:8rcAAOSwMpZUnJTJ&vxp=mtr)
Here is 86-87
http://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Aluminum-Radiator-hose-Honda-TRX250-TRX250R-TRX-250R-1986-1987-86-87-/261582934894?hash=item3ce78ed36e:g:vUsAAOSwVFlUBtko&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Aluminum-Radiator-hose-Honda-TRX250-TRX250R-TRX-250R-1986-1987-86-87-/261582934894?hash=item3ce78ed36e:g:vUsAAOSwVFlUBtko&vxp=mtr)
It may be POSSIBLE to mix and match years, but I betcha they won't fit as good as the years they are intended for. And you will need to be careful to make sure that the radiator hose doesn't touch your pipe also. Ebay is not a good place for fact checking.If you look at Honda part #'s, Honda changed the part number between years 87 and 88 because they changed they shape of the inlet and outlets. There is a reason that the hose shapes are different. It is to accommodate the different shaped inlet/outlet fittings. I would recommend you run the hoses that match the radiator fittings, unless you are running some type of universal unformed hose.
I hope this helps.
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I used an AFCO dual pass radiator on my 310, and it wants to run at 130 degrees at an idle. Hard duning will get it up to 180 degrees. It almost works too good. I used standard Napa heater hose along with the supplied AN fittings that came with the radiator. It wasn't any trouble to install.
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last trip out my bike was detonating because of an incorrect head cut it ran like garbage and with my stock radiator it hovering around 200 unless I hit a straight. That was at florence and that place is flat, were going to winchester this time and I know I am going to be doing some treeshots and high rpm climbing without much room for straights so id rather be safe then sorry.
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That's where I run mine, is at Winchester. I haven't been to Florence yet.
If you fix your detonation issues, I would think your stock radiator should be more then plenty.
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last trip out my bike was detonating because of an incorrect head cut it ran like garbage and with my stock radiator it hovering around 200 unless I hit a straight. That was at florence and that place is flat, were going to winchester this time and I know I am going to be doing some treeshots and high rpm climbing without much room for straights so id rather be safe then sorry.
What motor? my puma is running a stock radiator without issues.
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310 procross cylinder with a 4mm crank my radiator has some bent fins iv tried two different stock radiators and on two different motors I'm hovering around 200-220. My 265 stayed below 200 most of the time unless I really made it work hard.
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310 procross cylinder with a 4mm crank my radiator has some bent fins iv tried two different stock radiators and on two different motors I'm hovering around 200-220. My 265 stayed below 200 most of the time unless I really made it work hard.
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Does the head have the restriction holes like a stock head gasket?
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Not sure it has o rings, no gasket and the procross cool head (cool head should fine a new name as we know that's all bs)
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Not sure it has o rings, no gasket and the procross cool head (cool head should fine a new name as we know that's all bs)
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I know like on a quadzilla they have a few issues with actually pulling the heat from the cylinder with a cool head.
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That's where I run mine, is at Winchester. I haven't been to Florence yet.
If you fix your detonation issues, I would think your stock radiator should be more then plenty.
sounds like BDT cut you head. check your combustion area and confirm you are using the correct octane.
john
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actually the guy that built this motor was Pat at that sport shop in Reedsport. Did a terrible job on it, the bike became super fuel efficient was hitting Rev limiters all over the place, over heating issues, and best of all no power my 310 had less power then my 265. I called him like 10 times over a year and he gave me answers like "oh your running cr250 those don't work so good we have best results with stock ignitions"
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It sounds like you need to save that money you want to spend on a radiator and put it towards a good motor builder who can get your engine fixed up right. My 310, when it was still on the stock radiator did fine. 180-190 degrees if I remember right. The only time it went over 200 was in snow when I had a lot of wheel spin but not a lot of speed with not much air flow through the radiator.
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I did that already sent it to Kevin Herr of Herr jugs racing out in California. He built my old banshee and my rm250 both bikes I'm super happy with so I sent him my 250r. (Plus some builders didn't want to try to fix a hack job jug).
Bike runs awesome now tons more power all issues gone throttle super crisp. iv tested it around my house here haven't got over 180 but my area and the trails here aren't enough to over heat a bike so I never usually know until I get on the sand and by then it's too late and there goes a 5 day trip wasted.
So do I need a radiator maybe I don't know, however having one doesn't hurt and I don't have a money issue so nothing stopping me from buying one.
That is my thought process. Rather waste 400 on a radiator I don't need then have a trip I take once every year go to waste.
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I did that already sent it to Kevin Herr of Herr jugs racing out in California. He built my old banshee and my rm250 both bikes I'm super happy with so I sent him my 250r. (Plus some builders didn't want to try to fix a hack job jug).
Bike runs awesome now tons more power all issues gone throttle super crisp. iv tested it around my house here haven't got over 180 but my area and the trails here aren't enough to over heat a bike so I never usually know until I get on the sand and by then it's too late and there goes a 5 day trip wasted.
So do I need a radiator maybe I don't know, however having one doesn't hurt and I don't have a money issue so nothing stopping me from buying one.
That is my thought process. Rather waste 400 on a radiator I don't need then have a trip I take once every year go to waste.
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Even the big motors run just fine on a stock radiator as long as they are clean in and out without any build up.
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id get a new radiator even if it is just one of those china jobbers. it might be the same size but at least its clean bare metal u never know how much corrosion is down inside the cores of your 30 yr old stocker.
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I understand. I'm in the same boat, usually big trips far from home, so whatever I put together on the quad has to work or my trip may be ruined. In that case, go for an aftermarket radiator, I did, and I haven't regretted it. I haven't had a single issue with my Afco in the 6+ years I've had it.
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I understand. I'm in the same boat, usually big trips far from home, so whatever I put together on the quad has to work or my trip may be ruined. In that case, go for an aftermarket radiator, I did, and I haven't regretted it. I haven't had a single issue with my Afco in the 6+ years I've had it.
take big main jets run non oxygenated 110 for those tree shots. winchester will smoke more otherwise reliable engines than anywhere else.
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Pat is the guy at #1 Stop Sports or whatever in Reedsport, yeah? If so, I'd steer clear. OCP in Winchester Bay would have / is a much better option.
And to agree with the rest of this thread - stock radiator will work fine on that size motor in the Oregon Dunes. Have ran stock ones (and aftermarket) on similar and bigger motors for years without issue.
take big main jets run non oxygenated 110 for those tree shots. winchester will smoke more otherwise reliable engines than anywhere else.
Care to elaborate on this statement? I've been riding Winchester and the OR dunes for 15 years and never had issues..
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when conditions are right air quality, combined with extended wot can make winchester bay unique requiring larger main jets and good fuel to keep cool imho.
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when conditions are right air quality, combined with extended wot can make winchester bay unique requiring larger main jets and good fuel to keep cool imho.
As long as you have enough fuel to make the pull in the bowl and jet is large enough not to lean the mixture it wouldn't matter where you are.