TRX250R.ORG
Workshop => Body and Controls => Topic started by: jcs003 on July 06, 2016, 10:19:14 AM
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does anyone have any experience with PC on fenders or other plastics?
http://www.pcimag.com/articles/96285-new-technology-enables-powder-coating-for-plastics--composites-and-other-nonmetallic-substrates
a project at work brought this to my attention and it might have a place in the ATV world.
thanks,
john
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We are currently working with a supplier, that is able to powder an acrylic substrate. One problem still is the high temperature needed for curing. They other is acquiring a high gloss finish. It's closer to achieving, than it was in the past.
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If you can get PC on the fenders to cure without melting or deforming them the next challenge would be making PC thats flexible enough to withstand the abuse fenders take. Does anyone make a flex agent for PC like they do for paint? It would have to be in powder form if thats possible.
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they use light curing too, as you see on some 3d printers. 'powder" is loosely used.
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does anyone have any experience with PC on fenders or other plastics?
http://www.pcimag.com/articles/96285-new-technology-enables-powder-coating-for-plastics--composites-and-other-nonmetallic-substrates
a project at work brought this to my attention and it might have a place in the ATV world.
thanks,
john
The article says cure temperatures are in the 250 to 400 deg range. Has anyone tested the OEM plastic to see if it will maintain its shape at those temperatures? It would probably be a good idea to "cook" some OEM plastic for a few hours at a little less than 400 deg to see if the some of the oil/plastic components evaporate from the plastic making it weak or brittle after it returns to room temperature.
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The article says cure temperatures are in the 250 to 400 deg range. Has anyone tested the OEM plastic to see if it will maintain its shape at those temperatures? It would probably be a good idea to "cook" some OEM plastic for a few hours at a little less than 400 deg to see if the some of the oil/plastic components evaporate from the plastic making it weak or brittle after it returns to room temperature.
I think OEM fenders would be too risky. especially if they are older, as you know, photo-degradation occurs in plastics and makes it brittle anyway. Thats why the UV curing-liquid resin type would be better for the OEM fenders.
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There's no way fenders will withstand those temps. You would need a thermosetting plastic to get up near those temps and not melt