TRX250R.ORG
Workshop => Engine and Bottom End => Topic started by: Jake250r on September 08, 2016, 04:23:35 PM
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Hey guys,
First off, sorry about posting in engine work, i can't seem to find the right sub thread. Looks like there is suspension, carbs, exhaust, frame etc., etc., but no electrical? Maybe I missed it sorry if so. So here's the deal, I haven't ridden my 250r since i left college at 18. I would put a little Belray down the plug hole and kick it over about 2-3 times a year to ensure that nothing froze up or rusted out on me. Never noticed any issues, always had good compression and was never a problem to kick over. Without going into a whole mess of another story, the house was broken into by my father as a revenge thing on my mother, and also I'm pretty sure he took some time to sabatage my bike. it is what it is.
So I had a feeling about it, he's always had it out for me as well as long as i can remember, so i check my bike and found it suddenly frozen up completely. I mean completely jacked. You could bounce a truck off the kick starter and not move it. Ended up taking the head off and using a clean board and 3lb hammer to free it up again. I have replaced the CDI box, the coil, and just today i finished the stator. I have zero spark. I know I'm going to need to rebuild it, as it kicks over with almost no compression but I'm trying to get spark before throwing in more $. All of the wiring looks good, The grounds are good. I'm just not sure what else to do.
As it is, I couldn't even begin to guess what sabatage was done to the bike. We live out in the country, and the house was vacant at the time. He could have had all day to screw with it. Or maybe it's all one very convenient coincidence. Regardless I am trying to rule out every component. I shold mention I am a heavy mechanic by trade, and my father is a 40+ years maintenance/heavy mechanic. He has bragged to me all my life about how slimey he can sabatage things. He's a real stand up guy, I know. I'm guessing he probably just hooked a battery up to my headlight wire or something and caused a complete short out after revving it until it seized. I would assume that all the components that I've changed Should have remedied that though. I'm at a loss at this point.
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My 2 cents, doubtful it was sabotaged, if it was froze up from it being sabotaged, there would be some sort of tell tale sighn, weather the cylinder being badly scored from something being put in it, or rusted all to hell from water being in it, which in theory could come from a leaky head gasket. When you unfroze it, there went the rings, and compression. If it was indeed sabotaged, you would know with out a doubt.
That being said, if it sat a long time, its very possible mosture collected and rusted up the cylinger walls, or head gasket could have been leeking and didn't know it with or without oil being poured in it, sitting water still would have caused problems. It may very well have been tired in the first place with lower compression, it also could have hot seized after it was rode hard and parked, there is a lot that can be in play.
Electrical, there is another thing,spark could have been fine when parked, a loss of spark just happens. They are old machines, and coils wear out. You can ride 1 day with great spark, get on it the next, and its cooked, nature of the beast.
Check all your connections, check for good ground, test your plug coil, take the boot off, cut it back a little and re attach the boot if the coil tests good. If that all fails, see if your ohm readings on the stator are in spec, if not you have a bad stator. Check the pins on cdi for corrosion, and the female plug that plug into the cdi, my problem was a pain to find, and it was one of the female pins that plug to the cdi was loose.
If thats it winds up it I have a few stators I can sell you one. If stator is in spec check flywheel key to make sure it didn't shear, and if none of that is the case, pull the fly wheel, shake it around and if it rattles, the magnets are broken. And you need a new flywheel.
If you need any parts, I have a good oe plug coil, oe stator, and oe flywheel, and oe cdi.
Good luck.
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I will ohm the stator and let you know. Like I said, the coil( and plug boot), plug, CDI, and stator are all brand new. That's not to say they are working, but they have all been replaced with no change. I've swapped back and forth between CDI boxes and the coil resistance is within spec. Is pulling the flywheel the only way to check the magnets?
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Stator should be between 50ohm and 250ohm, obviously less ohm =weaker spark. Pick up coil should read 50 to 200. If you need wire colors to test it all, I could look them up for you.
Green tab to black tab on ignition coil should be .1 to .3 ohm, and green tab to boot should be 7 ohm to 11 ohm.
You can try spinning the flywheel slowly and listen, but would be hard to hear. Make sure key way didn't shear also. As far as cdi, if its bad you'll still get spark, but it will be out of time. If you rule out dirty connections, ground, flywheel magnets, keyway, and coil, I would say its the stator or pickup coil.
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Well I cleaned the connection just behind the cdi and below the tank after checking the new stator (116 ohms), had the gf hold the plug to block while I kicked it faster and im getting spark now. Not sure if its in time, I shot a bit of Ether on the plug hoping to get just a second of run time and shut it down but nothing. I'm going to switch back CDIs and try it again. Any tips for a top end rebuild kit? Best brand for the money etc.? Im probably just going to default to wiseco if not
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Thats good you are getting spark now. Probably just dirty connections. Wieseo is good but have a tendency to seize if not allowed to warm up properly and especially if heat cycles are not done for break in. Start it, let it idle until you can't hold your hand on the cylinder, shut it down and cool completely, and repeat 3 to 5 times. After heat cycles, ride it like you stole it, but not more than 3/4 throttle in 6th, let it cool repeat it 1 more time, then ride like normal. Wossner are a little better piston imo, pro x are also fine. Esr are Wieseo cut for there cylinders, but are fine on a stock jug.