TRX250R.ORG
Workshop => Suspension and Chassis => Topic started by: evaneyeball on March 15, 2020, 11:38:16 PM
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I'm making a +2 86 swingarm and it's going to be make out of steel tubing. It's going to be kind of like a ladder swing arm. But I got the old swing arm apartand this is the carrier. I was hoping to use the old carrier and the tube that it sits in
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I'm not going to ignore information and normally dont but I just like to use all information I have and for me someone that I have met and know what kind of work they do and have seen it says alot more than anything else .I'm not trying to offend anyone here but it does. And the swingarm is going to be made out of metal that is pretty much scrap and I'm not going to destroy my oem one it will be for backup. And I am not going to take on the carrier holding system and i will cut one off of a different swingarm. Preferably a newer bike for future bearing replacement. And now knowing that someone on here has welding for 30 years you might be able to help me a bit. If i screw up it's really no harm. And can try again. Just with different materials.
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I think it's fantastic that a young man has some drive in today's world. Too many kids want to sit on the couch playing video games or getting into the next Facebook drama.
Some important things to consider when taking on a task like this are:
1) Do you have the skills required or have someone to back you.
up. You must be able to make a weld that will take some.
serious abuse. You must be able to measure to the nearest
1/32"
You must be able to keep the swingarm square (Jig/Fixture)
2) Do you have the equipment...
What weld process will you have available to you?
(MIG, TIG, STICK, GAS)
3)Do you have the appropriate materials
Stock 1986/87 swingarms are constructed from mild steel
Tubing. 1988/89 are constructed from aluminum.
I will not tell you that you can not do your swingarm modification, but I will ask you to really consider the things I listed above. I have modified swingarms, steering stems, frames, foot pegs on my 250R and other people's ATV'S. One thing I have always told people I will not do is modify an aluminum swingarm. Even if the swingarm looks like it was fabricated and not cast. An aluminum swingarm that is manufactured from extruded tube and is welded can not be altered by anyone but an expert. Aluminum must be heat treated after being welded.
Everything I build or alter on R's is done with a TIG welder. TIG welding is very precise and clean welding. No spatter, cold lap, lack of fusion, or slag to deal with. MIG is a very convenient weld process, but also taken for granted. I have seen people lay a beautiful MIG weld only to see it fail. Penetration is the key! Keep in mind that a big weld is not a good weld.
STICK welding has no place at all in this discussion! Do not STICK weld on your Quad period!
In summary:
You have to start somewhere and can't go through life being afraid to try new things, but doing this type of project wrong can get you hurt or killed. Your welds can look good on the surface and still fail because they were not good where it really counts. I have 20+ years experience in welding/fabrication and will help you if I can. I would hate to see you get hurt.
Loren
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I can't comment on the welding piece since but as an FYI for swingarm components - you might consider buying a couple pieces you need like the carrier clamp / pinch stuff / etc from a place like JJA if it helps the build process:
http://www.jjandaracing.com/contents/en-us/d15.html
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Thank you all I will have someone to back me up my uncle who has worked tig welding for a long time and my grandpa has worked construction actually everyone in my family did so the high stress situations should work fine. And I wont be destroying my oem one
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This is the general design I've come up with the tubes on top are mounted higher in the tubes on the bottom. And this is a rough sketch no measuring went into this drawing. And the center top tubes on the carrier will not meet. Do any of you think this is a good design and if not let me know I would love any info on this for safety
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It totally spaced in my mind t the put the picture in but I'm looking at buying the jj and a back strap style 1 but am confused is that and the carrier all you need or a guard for it and Also what do I do about the tightening part would I have to weld on a clamp type thing or a nut and bolt. I can't seem to find any pictures
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It totally spaced in my mind t the put the picture in but I'm looking at buying the jj and a back strap style 1 but am confused is that and the carrier all you need or a guard for it and Also what do I do about the tightening part would I have to weld on a clamp type thing or a nut and bolt. I can't seem to find any pictures
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the jj an a carrier housing is all you need the stock carrier slides inside of it as far as clamping it its real simple ill try to remember to get you a pic of my swing arm tomorrow to show you
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heres the swing arm i run you can look at the pics to see how it clamps
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwi8h4y9w6DoAhVFHs0KHZmhCQoQFjAAegQICRAC&url=https%3A%2F%2Fstellarperformanceaz.com%2F&usg=AOvVaw3r5FwRJzarCNBhZuem2mEJ
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thank you. but i am running into a clearance problem i cant fit a pipe of the size that i want on the bottom rails for the shock mount and have to fit it on the top but then the shock would mount too high causing there to not be enough room for the shock can i just move the mount back and make the shock angle kinda low and just make room that way or can i move the mount even more fore wards and make it a no-link but im not really sure if i can do that or if i might need a new shock for it to be no-link. i know that the angle that the shock is at effects the performance. and im trying to keep the same oem mount. if i moved the mount back id have to make a new linkage system wich is no problem.
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I just finished the 1/2 scale model. Out of 1 inch scrap PVC pipe and hot glue it together. I'm still working on a way to mount the shock but the support in the middle I think is where I'm going to mount it up.
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I would for simplicity sake just keep the linkage set up oem and keep the geometry the same as stock. I would highly recommend only adding length behind the linkage mount.
Loren
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That is what I ended up deciding on.