TRX250R.ORG
General => Lounge => Topic started by: Hawaiiysr on August 23, 2020, 06:24:11 PM
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i have been wanting a lathe and mill for sometime. in my neck of the woods they are hard to find. So on my last trip out to the mainland (Vegas) i had two options. Buy a harbor freight lathe or rent an exotic car.
(https://thumbs2.imagebam.com/a2/88/e8/1bfc191352184849.jpg) (http://www.imagebam.com/image/1bfc191352184849)
So i didnt but a harbor freight lathe lol
I have been asking this guy that owns a electric motor repair shop to sell me a lathe for 2 years. He has a couple in his shop and comes across them used from time to time. Last week i went to his shop and he tells me, "so you going to buy that lathe from me?" we came up with a price and he tells me to come back in the afternoon to pick it up.
(https://thumbs2.imagebam.com/63/67/4c/882ecb1352184671.jpg) (http://www.imagebam.com/image/882ecb1352184671) (https://thumbs2.imagebam.com/5d/c4/98/c66afb1352184673.jpg) (http://www.imagebam.com/image/c66afb1352184673) (https://thumbs2.imagebam.com/8f/d6/41/7f00e91352184675.jpg) (http://www.imagebam.com/image/7f00e91352184675)
She's an old 9" South Bend. I have yet to find the exact year. Older than me for sure. The last owner did clean it up pretty good. She's not perfect but she's perfect for the space i have and the duties it shall serve. All manual which is good because id like to learn on a simple machine. Id like to find the original manual and a parts manual as well.
so my question is since many of you have experience with mills and lathes, can you recommend a good online place to source parts? Both OEM and aftermatket. How bout some sites on how to operate this lathe? Im a total nob with this and not afraid to admit that. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Since im posting pics of my mug his one more along with another old machine i use at work. Miller DialArc HF. I use it mainly for Tig. This machine sat for many years uncovered in a warehouse till i came along and asked if I could try it out. Its a total BEAST!
(https://thumbs2.imagebam.com/fa/3d/84/c7a1051352184677.jpg) (http://www.imagebam.com/image/c7a1051352184677)
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Josh, start searching the model number. Did you find a serial number anywhere?
Joe
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Model 444 Z
SN 140182
i havnt done much research at all yet. Baby sitting guys at work is a job in itself.
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Nice lathe has the quick change gear box for threading like mine does id invest into a quick change tool post for it makes it easier switching out different cutters than it is with that lantern style
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You are having too much fun. Lambos, lathes and gynormous Tig. Rockstar. Seem to be in the Jesse James league
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Josh seeing as your new lathe has flat belt pulleys I would say it is 30's-40's. The thing with these older lathes is knowing that it is not a modern day engine lathe or gear head lathe. I tend to take way too big of a cut a slip the belts on mine all the time unless I put it in back gears.
Carbide inserts are nice if your lathe has enough ass to use them. Carbide likes tool pressure or higher feed rates than high speed steel (tool steel). Quick change tool posts are very nice and can be bought cheap on Amazon, but are not necessary at all. I have been using the old rocker style tool post for two years on my lathe. I just set up several tool holders and switch them as I need to.
For these old lathes the best place I found for oem parts is Ebay. Just like our R's they really don't make new OEM parts, although plenty of people are producing parts for them and are selling them on Ebay. Also check out LittleMachineshop.com. They have tooling, tool holders, and tool posts. My favorite tool post is the aloris style.
I think you have two options for learning to use the lathe. Option 1 is to go to your local community college and take some classes. Option 2 is to watch videos and just jump in! I would highly recommend the classes because you will get a broader perspective. I learned on the job and after work. I would draw a print out and then machine the part(or scrap it lol).
I did that several times until I could hit all the tolerances. Machine a shaft with a couple different sized bearing fits, cut an Oring groove, or machine a bushing. I would highly recommend attempting threads after you can hit a desired size with repeatability. Most of all I say to have fun with the lathe and be safe.
Loren
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I had a 10" south bend for years, The original belt was leather, and as long as the spindle bearings are tight you can get a belt made on site, as you can't buy one. Tailstock is important, carbide bits in 1/4" square work well with the stock rocker tool post. Back gears don't see much use, and are usually caked with old dead grease, but clean=able, alot of these didn't see heavy use, mine came from a Navy vessel on board machine shop. 10" was a little undersized for me.
desertR
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Nice lathe has the quick change gear box for threading like mine does id invest into a quick change tool post for it makes it easier switching out different cutters than it is with that lantern style
If and when i get hardcore enough ill invest in some. I looked them up. They sure do look nice and will save time changing cutters for sure
You are having too much fun. Lambos, lathes and gynormous Tig. Rockstar. Seem to be in the Jesse James league
I did have a great time on that vacation! That day alone was jam packed with expensive fun. Rented the Lambo, went in door sky diving, rented a cabana at a hotel i cant even recall OMG that was nuts. I have to sensor myself here. I was in Vegas for a week and everyday we did something really fun. Clothing optional clubs, quad riding, roller coasters, beer, beer, and, Liquor. Hoover dam was cool too:)
Not going to lie though. I sure was broke when i got back home. Totally worth it.
I had a 10" south bend for years, The original belt was leather, and as long as the spindle bearings are tight you can get a belt made on site, as you can't buy one. Tailstock is important, carbide bits in 1/4" square work well with the stock rocker tool post. Back gears don't see much use, and are usually caked with old dead grease, but clean=able, alot of these didn't see heavy use, mine came from a Navy vessel on board machine shop. 10" was a little undersized for me.
desertR
The guy i bought it from gave me a belt but it has a seam. as i understand it a completely flat belt is best. He gave me a website that i could buy a belt as there is no one local that can make me a leather belt. This machine also came from a ship yard (pearl harbor) as it sits it does not seam to have got much use.
Loren,
Thanks for the tips. Dont think i could make it to any real classes but i do feel i would learn the best there. Im excited to dive in (time permitting) I did get to play with it some yesterday before i went home. Ill need tooling for sure as i only have 2 rusty cutters.
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I’m still trying to figure out how to get a nice finish
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Try increasing your feed and slightly radius your tool steel.
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Try increasing your feed and slightly radius your tool steel.
Mostly having issues with turning steel on a aluminum I can get a decent finish
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Turn steel slow, that is the key, also auto feeds make a Huge finish difference
The IS not a production machine
desertR
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Just came across something on YouTube saying you can replace the belt with a serpentine belt from the automotive shop but you have to take the lathe apart to put it on
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thats a good idea. ill run by napa and see what they have. id like to run a VFD on this. that way i can run a smaller belt and make the foot print a little smaller. im sure i have a 3 phase motor around here that will work. would be super cool to use a automotive type tensioner on it. LS serpentine ;D
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Honestly I don't know if you would ever wear a belt out on that lathe. I would get a good belt made if the belt is suspect and then take the headstock off so you can change the belt. That way you can inspect your bearings and replace them if needed.
My lathe is going to need a belt soon and that is what I am going to do. I can get those adjustable length V belts and just "put a belt on ", but I would not feel like I was properly maintaining my machine.
Just my humble opinion...
Loren
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What usually happens with the belt is that it becomes soaked with oil over the years I would check the headstock bearings with an dial indicator on the chuck and a bar in the chuck. If I remember correctly, the bearings are cast in place and not replaceable, but wear like iron. Pull the caps and clean them, check the felts, and be sure the oil cups the there, and will hold oil. They spec 100 or 200 oil, I remember using 90 wt.
desertR
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Honestly I don't know if you would ever wear a belt out on that lathe. I would get a good belt made if the belt is suspect and then take the headstock off so you can change the belt. That way you can inspect your bearings and replace them if needed.
My lathe is going to need a belt soon and that is what I am going to do. I can get those adjustable length V belts and just "put a belt on ", but I would not feel like I was properly maintaining my machine.
Just my humble opinion...
Loren
You do not need to take off the head stock to replace a belt. Go to one of your local bearing / industrial supply businesses and have them make a rubber coated belt that has a master link in it. Ask if they can make a belt from "Potato belt material" . The master link is made with many stainless steel wire cleats on each end of the belt and a pin joins the links together. The Potato belt has woven fabric with rubber vulcanized into it. I have a big lathe that originally had a leather belt. After 10 years or so, the leather belt stretched to the point there was not enough adjustment to make heavy cuts.
I have used many of these rubber coated belts on it over the last 35 years. Do not over tighten one of these rubber belts. Over tightening will pull the cleats from the end of the rubber belt.
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this is the type of belt i have on mine