Recent Posts

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Wanted / Re: Airbox
« Last post by The norm on May 24, 2020, 12:55:06 PM »
The Mad Scientist / Re: Engine cases
« Last post by The norm on May 23, 2020, 07:16:52 PM »
Engine and Bottom End / Re: CP Industries cylinder
« Last post by The norm on May 23, 2020, 02:27:25 PM »
I was able to take a look at one of these cylinders at Hybrid Engineering the other day. Pete and I discussed the differences between the lynx and the puma and whether it would be worth it for me to go back in the dog house with my wife for another new cylinder lol. Decisions decisions........
The Mad Scientist / Re: Engine cases
« Last post by croat1 on May 23, 2020, 09:08:23 AM »

Engine and Bottom End / Re: 363 Sphynx is Ready
« Last post by jcs003 on May 22, 2020, 09:23:13 PM »
very nice.  if it wasn't for the CTS-V i might have money for something comparable. haha
Suspension and Chassis / Re: Integrated Reservoir
« Last post by ytman on May 20, 2020, 09:05:15 AM »
I've wondered the same thing and have yet to pull the trigger on it.  Can you buy it already and give feedback? Lol
Iím currently forbidden. Haha Essentials only.
Engine and Bottom End / Re: Flywheel (loose hub rivets)
« Last post by Jerry Hall on May 20, 2020, 12:42:29 AM »
I have tig welded a lot of flywheels as a preventative measure.  If you wait until the rivets are loose enough to "rattle" you have waited too long.  It is next to impossible to get the flywheel shell and hub concentric before welding after the rivets get loose.  If the rivets are still tight and you see rust colored streaks on the flywheel shell that are originating at the hub and projecting radially outward, it is time to weld the hub to the shell.

I make 3 welds 1" long 120 degrees apart.  I have used filler rod on some, fused the hub to the flywheel without filler rod on others.  I have had both types balanced and could not feel any difference in the engine vibration between using filler rod and not using filler rod. If you are a competent tig welder, the weight of the welds will be really close to each other.  Each weld will be within 1 or 2 dabs of each other when using .035 or .045 filler rod.   I have welded some flywheels that the  rivets were rattling and they would vibrate a lot because they were not concentric.
Hybrid 250R / Re: YTMANíS 650
« Last post by 2ndmoto on May 18, 2020, 11:17:49 PM »
That looks like fun!
Engine and Bottom End / Re: 15 tooth sprocket
« Last post by Jerry Hall on May 18, 2020, 11:43:16 AM »
The point of entrance and exit depends upon the sprocket diameters and distance between the centerline of both sprockets and the amount of ware on your sprocket and chain. 

I attempt to maintain approximately 1 mm clearance from the chain tangency points on the top and bottom of the countershaft sprocket.  The number of degrees between these two tangency points will never be more than 180 degrees.  The basic concept is than the chain MUST stay tightly wrapped around the CS sprocket for a case saver to do what it is suppose to do.  One design deficiency I see on many of the case savers is that they need more chain direction control on the bottom of the countershaft sprocket to guide the chain alone the straight line between the chain tangency points on the bottoms of the two sprockets when the suspension is topped out.

There is not a need for a case saver as long as the chain stays on the sprockets.  If a chain breaks, the chain should feed into the top of the CS sprocket with the case saver keeping the chain fully meshed with the CS sprocket until the last link exits the CS sprocket and guides the chain away from the shift shaft, frame or any other obstacle as the chain exits the bottom of the CS sprocket.

If a chain is derailed from the rear sprocket and there is not any bent kinks in the chain or there is not any broken teeth on the CS sprocket, a case saver should allow the chain to stay on the CS sprocket and continue to run long enough to saw the rear axle in half. ;D
Wanted / Re: WTB: Regular rubber mount
« Last post by havinnoj on May 15, 2020, 03:27:29 PM »
Shoot - IDK actually but I believe it is part 8.  One is "supposed" to fit the rectifier I bought, so if anyone has both, I'll buy both.
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