Author Topic: inframe drag pipe (Read 6166 times)

Kyle · « **on:** February 06, 2014, 01:16:36 AM »

what is the best inframe drag pipe? just sent my motor off for a full drag port and im switching to alky. question is what is the best inframe pipe? how much less will it make then a shearer oof? motor is a 344 drag ported by bubba.

rsss396 · « **Reply #1 on:** February 06, 2014, 08:23:31 AM »

We have had better luck with the FTZ inframe Drag pipe than the ESR11 or ESR5 on a 295 and a 344 on alky
ESR may have a better pipe now than the 11 pipe but with our experience it did not have the torque that the FTZ had and did not pull any better on top.
The 295 still runs a FTZ but the 344 runs a out of frame drag pipe from CPI now.
Try talking with Mike from CPI he probably can build you a inframe drag pipe if he is not to busy.

Rupp250 · « **Reply #2 on:** February 06, 2014, 10:48:33 AM »

Ask Matt if he will do an in-frame for you as well.

havinnoj · « **Reply #3 on:** February 06, 2014, 11:07:10 AM »

Matt would be a good choice. Arlan @ LED makes beautiful hand coned pipes as well and could set you up with something.

Kyle · « **Reply #4 on:** February 06, 2014, 01:25:14 PM »

matt wants $685 raw. If an ftz won't be that much less power I might as well try to find a used one. whats the power difference between an oof and inframe?

udontknowme · « **Reply #5 on:** February 06, 2014, 08:19:43 PM »

if the ftz is already known to work good on a engine real similar to yours then thats what i would use. alot of people could probly make you a pipe but if they havent made one for that particular engine combo then theyre basically just gonna be pulling numbers out of their arse and hope it works half decent.

Kyle · « **Reply #6 on:** February 06, 2014, 08:54:31 PM »

ya that's what I want to know is real world results and ppl who have tested them to chime in. I don't wanna be pissin in the wind.

xTHUNDERCATx · « **Reply #7 on:** February 06, 2014, 09:41:27 PM »

If bubba is doing the port work why not get his opinion? Id bet he has quite a bit of experience with the different pipes and what will or wont work with his porting

Kyle · « **Reply #8 on:** February 07, 2014, 01:54:23 PM »

He told me that esr,5,11, sparks,etc would work, just trying so see from you guys if one worked better then the rest.

xTHUNDERCATx · « **Reply #9 on:** February 07, 2014, 09:02:26 PM »

gotcha, what pipe do you have now?

Pumashine · « **Reply #10 on:** February 07, 2014, 09:24:36 PM »

Quote from: Kyle;24927

matt wants $685 raw. If an ftz won't be that much less power I might as well try to find a used one. whats the power difference between an oof and inframe?

Matt explained to me that there was not enough room to make a Puma in frame with good bottom end for playing around. I love my Shearer in frame when at wide open throttle. But it lacks good bottom end response. On the other hand Matt said the Puma OOF was long enough that the bottom end problems were not there. I believe he quit making the Puma in frame for that particular reason. My Shearer Puma in frame has been sitting on the shelf for 5 years now. I now have the 40mm smart carb in my possession and plan on seeing if the carb can make the correction for the bad bottom end response. It would be totally awesome to have the in frame work as well as the out of frame.

Kyle · « **Reply #11 on:** February 08, 2014, 12:24:38 AM »

Right now I have the sparks TT pipe

seanoktm · « **Reply #12 on:** February 09, 2014, 04:36:20 PM »

I talked to CPI last week about a big bore in frame pipe they want $320 for a pipe. I will be running a big bore inframe ftz pipe on my 370 that came with my polonda. The ftz pipe looks well built and is a nice pipe I think.

puma · « **Reply #13 on:** February 09, 2014, 06:50:43 PM »

curtis hi rev big bore is very good pipe and shearer inframe puma on my 344 run very well out pass my ftz and esr 11 and esr 5