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Author Topic: CR250 38mm Mikuni TMX  (Read 9347 times)

Offline The_Steve_Man

CR250 38mm Mikuni TMX
« on: November 28, 2015, 07:12:57 PM »
I just got this carb and was taking it apart for cleaning and thought I would share some pictures for people that are not familiar with these carbs and how to make them run on a 250r.

The 01 has an S9 nozzle (needle jet) and the 02 has an S8 nozzle. The S9 will make it run richer and I think that is where a lot of people has problems not getting then lean enough.





Offline The_Steve_Man

CR250 38mm Mikuni TMX
« Reply #1 on: November 28, 2015, 07:15:05 PM »
This carb had an S9 nozzle in it and the clip on the needle was at the top to get it leaned out.


Offline The_Steve_Man

CR250 38mm Mikuni TMX
« Reply #2 on: November 28, 2015, 07:20:53 PM »
It needs an S8 nozzle to get close to where it needs to be. I run mine with the clip in the middle and around a 390-420 main.
 
When you replace the float needle you can get it with needle and seat so all that is new.

Offline Robsessed86

CR250 38mm Mikuni TMX
« Reply #3 on: November 28, 2015, 07:54:14 PM »
Good call on starting an informative thread on one of these carbs. Not many people use these I feel B/c they don't know enough about them. This is is all good info for those that don't know these carbs well. Keep the posts coming brother. I remember many years ago I put one of these exact same carbs on a Esr 330pv and it ran well after some jetting and tinkering. I Don't use these any longer but not B/c of any problems with the mikuni.

Offline 2ndmoto

CR250 38mm Mikuni TMX
« Reply #4 on: November 28, 2015, 09:45:08 PM »
Some people love them. Honda ran them for a year or 2 on the early 2000 cr250s, then switched back to Keihin. From my experience, keihins tend to be easier to tune.  I am sure the mikuni is a good carb, but I have never spent much time with tuning them in.

Thanks for the info
-Jason

Offline Skeans1

CR250 38mm Mikuni TMX
« Reply #5 on: November 29, 2015, 01:45:44 AM »
Quote from: 2ndmoto;61457
Some people love them. Honda ran them for a year or 2 on the early 2000 cr250s, then switched back to Keihin. From my experience, keihins tend to be easier to tune.  I am sure the mikuni is a good carb, but I have never spent much time with tuning them in.

Thanks for the info
-Jason
Jason they have more circuits making them a little harder but they can be dead on.

Offline The_Steve_Man

CR250 38mm Mikuni TMX
« Reply #6 on: November 29, 2015, 06:26:53 AM »
I found the setup for the jetting on Pro Circuit site for the cr250 and it should be close to the R. I set it like they had, it fired right up.

The only reason I tried this carb is because I never really liked the PWKs I had. Maybe they wasn't new or tuned right, but something about them I didn't like. The throttle response is great on this and they are cheap to get. The parts that wear out on the keihin can be replaced on the Mikuni.

I haven't tried any of the other mikuni carbs so I know they would be more involved in tuning, but this one was very easy.

Offline The_Steve_Man

CR250 38mm Mikuni TMX
« Reply #7 on: November 29, 2015, 06:29:47 AM »
Quote from: 2ndmoto;61457
Some people love them. Honda ran them for a year or 2 on the early 2000 cr250s, then switched back to Keihin. From my experience, keihins tend to be easier to tune.  I am sure the mikuni is a good carb, but I have never spent much time with tuning them in.

Thanks for the info
-Jason
Honda ran them from 01 to 07. The Pro Circuit site says to setup the 03+ carbs just like the 02 with the same needle, slide and everything.

Offline The_Steve_Man

CR250 38mm Mikuni TMX
« Reply #8 on: May 31, 2016, 07:59:12 AM »
Bump for new interest.

Offline Donovan52

CR250 38mm Mikuni TMX
« Reply #9 on: August 10, 2016, 10:20:20 PM »
Quote from: The_Steve_Man;67955
Bump for new interest.


Im in the process of setting up one of these. I noticed on pro circuits jetting guide for the CR250 they recommended a different needle as well as a 32.5 Pilot jet. Did you install those in your carb as well?
88 310R


Check out my youtube channel for 250R Videos!
http://www.youtube.com/buckfoston86

Offline The_Steve_Man

CR250 38mm Mikuni TMX
« Reply #10 on: August 10, 2016, 11:12:07 PM »
Quote from: Donovan52;69168
Im in the process of setting up one of these. I noticed on pro circuits jetting guide for the CR250 they recommended a different needle as well as a 32.5 Pilot jet. Did you install those in your carb as well?
What year carb do you have? I have ran an 01 and 02 carbs. I kept the needle that came in them and on the 01, I changed the nozzle to an S8.

Offline dp250r

CR250 38mm Mikuni TMX
« Reply #11 on: August 11, 2016, 01:01:02 PM »
How can you ID what Mikuni carb you have.I bought an after market intake for an aircooled R it came with a 38 mill carb.But its missing the cap and slide and slide spring.

Offline The_Steve_Man

CR250 38mm Mikuni TMX
« Reply #12 on: August 11, 2016, 05:35:28 PM »
I just look at the needle. That tells me what year it is. A slide will cost you almost as much as another carb. They are $88 at jetrus.

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Offline Donovan52

CR250 38mm Mikuni TMX
« Reply #13 on: August 11, 2016, 11:02:52 PM »
Quote from: The_Steve_Man;69169
What year carb do you have? I have ran an 01 and 02 carbs. I kept the needle that came in them and on the 01, I changed the nozzle to an S8.

Mine had the S9 needle jet in it so Im assuming its a 01. I have already changed it to the S8 and it made a big difference. I just happened to notice on the pro circuit jetting guide for the cr250 they recommended the 6BEY30-74 Needle. Mine had the -73 needle in it so I ordered the -74 and am waiting for it to come in. I also noticed pro circuit recommended a 32.5 Pilot jet which seems kinda big to me ESR sends them out with a 25.
88 310R


Check out my youtube channel for 250R Videos!
http://www.youtube.com/buckfoston86

Offline The_Steve_Man

CR250 38mm Mikuni TMX
« Reply #14 on: August 12, 2016, 07:17:17 AM »
The BEY needle is from the 02. The BEH needle is 01. The only difference is the taper. I set mine up like the PRO Circuit guide and only had to change the main.
Here the article that helped me understand the numbers in the needle.

http://www.bogord.com/2010/10/jetting-mikuni-tmx-s-7-nozzle-swap-2001.html?m=1


Oct 31, 2010

Jetting, Mikuni TMX S-7 Nozzle Swap, 2001 CR250

Although this was done on a 2001 CR250, the same basic principles apply to most carbuerated bikes.*
In a previous post, "Carb Jetting Basics" I explained why jetting is important, what factors affect jetting, and how to do basic jetting adjustments. I also stated that in most cases*when doing jetting the needle and/or the needle jet does not need to be changed. Although this is true, there are conditions that do require a needle and/or a needle jet change.*The diagram to the right shows that through the throttle range, different parts of the carburetor come into play to help achieve the correct mixture from idle to wot(wide open throttle). As you can see, by changing the idle jet, main jet, and by dropping or raising the clip on the needle, it is possible to adjust somewhat the entire range. However, if you find that you are dropping or raising the needle to the last slot and still not getting the results you want it becomes necessary to change the needle and/or the nozzle(needle jet). There are 3 different elements that can be changed to get the desired results. The first 2 have to do with the needle. One is the straight diameter of the needle, and the second is the taper of the needle. The straight diameter has more effect from idle to half throttle while the taper controls from roughly 1/4 to 3/4 throttle. You can even buy needles with changing tapers to further control how fuel is metered, but again, in most cases, you can get good results with a single taper.*A bigger needle will lean the mixture, where a thinner one will richen the mixture.*Also, lowering the needle(raising the clip) will lean it, and raising the needle(lowering the clip) will richen it.*The nozzle*is the 3rd element that can be changed to either richen or lean the mixture. In my case, I needed a leaner mixture. If your bike is stock, with the stock s-9 nozzle, and you are riding at higher elevations, chances are good that you'll have the same problem.*Since every bike is different, and there are so many variables, it is nearly impossible to say you can jet your bike just like mine and have the same results, but using someone else who has a similar bike and rides in similar conditions can get you very close and at least get a place to start.

The picture to the left is a good illustration of how these parts actually work to control the mixture.

What are some good indications that you might need to worry about the nozzle and/or needle?*As I said, first jet the main and idle, then if you are on or close the the lowest position on your needle, but you still are rich in the mid range, then you should consider it. You'll know you are rich if you are still fouling plugs and they are black when you change it out. Also, if your bike tends to run well wide open, but loads up in slower technical stuff where you are in the low to mid throttle, then you'll know your still rich in that range as well. After doing a plug chop at full throttle, I determined my main was right on. The plug was the right color and it had good smooth power.*I decided to change the nozzle and the needle*The stock nozzle(needle jet) is a S-9.*The size is denoted by the letter and the number and dictates the jet's inside diameter. The leanest is the N-0 @ 2.55mm(inside diameter). From there and alphabetical increase in size code indicates an inside diameter .05 larger than the original. A numerical increase of the size code indicates a change of .005mm. In my case, the stock S-9 has a size of 2.845mm, and the S-7 would be 2.835mm (an S-8 would be 2.84mm). The S-7 has been regarded as a good choice and an all around decent fix for the mikuni tmx carb if you ride in the 4,000 or above elevation range for the 2001 CR250. The stock needle for a 2001 CR250 is a 6BEH1-73. The last two numbers in the part number determine the straight section diameter of the jet needle, otherwise known as the original diameter or root diameter. In the case of the stock 2002 CR250 needle, 6BEY30-74 (for example) the straight section diameter is 2.740mm Going from a -74 to a -75 will lean the mixture at approximate 1/8 to about 3/4 throttle (2.740mm to 2.750mm). The 6 at the beginning is the needle series number designating that this needle is used for a TMX 38mm carb (and some others that use the 6 series needles). The letters ‘BEY’ are the taper of the needle.The first letter of the alphabet, 'A' represents 15" (minutes) of taper, with each succeeding letter representing an additional 15" (minutes) of taper. So in this case 'B' would be 30", 'E' would be 2*15", and 'Y' would be 6*15". The other numbers (30) are seemingly placed at random and have not had any type of pattern associated with them in order to decode them, BUT an increase in this number, say for example part no. 6BEY31-74 would be 1/2 clip position leaner than the stock needle. I ordered a 6BEH1-74, or one step leaner for my bike. I have included catalog pages from*Sudco International, that can also be found here (pg 114,*pg 115). At the time I placed the order, they didn't have needles, so I ordered one from cheap cycle parts, in the OEM section. Keep in mind while doing changes with your jet needle and/or needle jet, that all these elements overlap in determining the final air/fuel ratio. So, you may need to look at your other adjustments, such as your main and idle jet to make sure you are not too lean at idle or wot. Leaning the needle and needle jet will most likely lean the main and idle circuit slightly as well. If you are not already on the lean side, you should be ok, but it's worth checking again. After all my jetting adjustments, this is the setup I ended up with:

Main Jet: 350
Idle Jet: 30
Jet Needle: 6BEH1-74 (clip, 3rd from the top)
Needle Jet(Nozzle): S-7*
Air Screw: 1.5 turns out*

 

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