When you lengthen the arm on the clutch actuator ( the part that rotates the cam that pushes against the push rod) you always reduce the amount of disengagement of the clutch plates when the clutch lever is fully squeezed in. I have observed over the years that any time the movement of the pressure clutch pressure plate is reduce to about 1.5 mm or less it may lead to one or more of the following problems.
1. The bike want to creep when the clutch lever is fully squeezed in and the RPMs are high.
2. It may make getting the bike in neutral difficult if it has been in 1st or 2nd gear.
3. It may make shifting difficult when the clutch does not fully disengage.
The same reduction in pressure plate movement can also be caused by any of the "easy pull" snake oil devices like different clutch levers and or clutch lever perches, or " in the clutch cable devices" that alter the geometry that moves the pressure plate in the clutch.
Do not be tempted to reduce the "free play to zero" in the clutch cable to gain more pressure plate movement. This may lead make the clutch not be able to fully engage and may lead to clutch slip.
In summary:
Any modification to the clutch lever or the actuator on the engine that reduces the effort to squeeze the clutch all the way up against the bar, reduces the amount of pressure plate movement. You may need to man up if you want to ride a big bore that need heavy clutch springs.
The clutch problems with the high torque big bore engines can only be solved with increased spring pressure, or larger diameter clutch baskets/clutch plates or more clutch plates or all of the above.
