See likes
See likes given/taken
| Post info | No. of Likes |
|---|---|
|
Re: LED bulb replacement?
Found this info April 06, 2022, 10:19:56 AM |
1 |
|
Re: Compression questions
On 2 of my R's I have stock 85-86 heads & ATC head gaskets which puts the cranking compression around 200-205psi. I have an oem 86 head with .013" removed & when I tried that one with the thicker TRX head gasket I was over 220psi. I like them in the 200-210 range & also run VP 110 but think I'm going to start mixing VP & non-eth 50/50. I ride woods sometimes here on the West coast & with a 12T front sprocket my R feels pretty darn snappy in the woods & it pulls good from right off the bottom & I have similar mods to yours except no porting & I have an FMF Don Emler H-13 gold series MX pipe.
April 18, 2022, 11:06:43 AM |
1 |
|
Re: Compression questions
Ethanol? I thought it’s best to stay away from it? Race gas, AV or Methanol is what I hear everyone is using. I don’t remember the last time I ran pump gas for one of mine (maybe 10 years ago). Joe April 19, 2022, 03:18:22 PM |
1 |
Re: Compression questions
Im an east coast woods rider. There is a "stage 2" port and polish on the cylinder, but I don't know the specific details of the port job. There is a fmf fatty and power core silencer, rad valve, 38mm carb, and the airbox lid is off. My goal is to make the bottom and mid be real snappy and responsive, but I still want a decent top end when I want to cut loose in a straight line. But most riding will be 1st through 3rd gear riding, in short bursts before another turn. I was hoping the bump in compression would let me lug the motor a bit more, but I don't want to add flywheel weight. As for the fuel cost, yeah, VP is expensive, but the gas quality sucks out of the pump, and it's not worth the aggrivation to me. I'd rather just purchase a few five's over the course of the year. I would try as many different pipe that you can beg, borrow or steel from you friends to find one that gives you the power characteristic that suits your needs. I have not had favorable results with the FMF fatty pipes on modified 250 R engines. Your engine does not know or care about what gear your are running. The shape of your power curve is controlled by the interaction of all of the components that make up your basic engine design. ( pipe, ports, carb size, reeds, intake system and ignition timing curve, etc). A power curve that is narrow and has a high peak power (Salt flat racing engine) is only good for very high speeds if coupled with the right gearing and or tire circumference. A power curve that produces maximum acceleration (drag racing engine) will have the highest average power in the RPM range that is defined by the RPM drop after each shift. Your transmission ratios define the RPM drop between gears. A power curve that works best for most outdoor racers is one that usually has the torque peak and the power peak about 500 to 1000 RPM apart on a 250cc single cylinder. The RPM spread between the torque and power peaks is usually what determines whether the engine is used by a Pro level rider or a Novice. Pro level riders make less mistakes in the corners so the width of the usable power range for some Pros may be similar to that of a drag engine. From a engine designers perspective it is easier to build an engine for drag racing than it is for Motocross or Stadium type racing April 19, 2022, 07:25:03 PM |
1 |
|
CR wire harness
South Texas Banshee https://www.southtexasbanshee.com/product-page/trx-250r-cr250-ignition-harness May 25, 2022, 10:46:24 PM |
1 |
Re: 2001 cr250r ignition swap question
Interesting, and comments noted. I don't do drama on forums, and typically don't engage. Just way too old for that garbage. Either way, I appreciate the heads up. I too am to old to engage. The certain guy you mention (I won’t repeat the the name) is a snake oil salesman. Shady from the beginning. There’s a reason why his “sponsored” riders left his “team”. More reasons why everyone in the R game (builders, producers of parts and common riders ) won’t deal with him. Hell, he “bought” a cheerleader following by giving away parts (know as nut swingers). His motor builder left (RIP Rob). Everything said person sells is available elsewhere. Just ask. Parts are available everywhere. Once again just ask. Yes I’m a moderator here and my opinion may be bias to some…feel free to search on the shady practices from the said company. I’m always available to talk in private if you like to get you up to speed on the “car sales man”. No offense to car salesman. With that said….sorry for the long response. To answer your question start with the plate lined up. I think that’s where mine is at. I’ll pull the cover off and verify and report back. Joe June 09, 2022, 12:22:02 AM |
1 |
Re: 2001 cr250r ignition swap question
LMAO. I can't quite put my finger on it, but I feel there is some kind of point attempted to be made here. I'm sure I can do some digging and find some of the posts across the net. https://www.modquad.com/ https://www.modquad.com/product-category/atv-parts/honda-atvs/250r/ just about everything billet you can think of! now, in my opinion the CR igntion swap is a thing of the past. DRW is about ready to relase the zeel ignitions again. better power, lower cost, and you can run lights https://www.forums.trx250r.org/index.php/topic,9324.msg84146.html#msg84146 June 09, 2022, 01:11:05 PM |
1 |
|
Re: 2001 cr250r ignition swap question
I also have a bdt plate and there’s 2 sets of holes and you’ll use the 01 obviously. I was told to turn the stator as far counter clockwise as possible to start. I ran it a little and the timing mark on the plug wasn’t quite right so I removed the little plate so I could retard it a tad more. That put the heat mark right on the bend of the plug strap.
June 11, 2022, 12:39:37 PM |
1 |
