Messages

1

Carburetor, Intake, and Exhaust / bigger engine wanting less fuel?

« on: December 19, 2016, 08:34:28 AM »

I ran 3 different b9es plugs at +- .016-.020 and a b8es for laughs and giggles but didn't notice any difference. My only other concern is that I had to replace my flywheel in the mix of the rebuild as my original stripped when trying to do the dc Conversion and I had to weld a puller to it to remove it. The replacement is off of a 88 trx according to the seller and mine is a 87 long rod. The part numbers are different but my understanding is any of the Trx flywheels interchange anyways. I hadn't gave the ignition much thought however as it appeared to clean up by leaning it out. It feels pretty cool ( I can hold my hand to the jug for a few seconds) even after a couple of hard pulls and doesn't have any symptoms of being lean, I'm just terrified of burning up a 1300$ top end.

Thanks for the thoughts

2

Carburetor, Intake, and Exhaust / bigger engine wanting less fuel?

« on: December 18, 2016, 09:33:19 PM »

Kind of along the lines of what I was thinking, I just wanted to verify that I wasn't nuts/ going to melt this shiny new aluminum down.

3

Carburetor, Intake, and Exhaust / bigger engine wanting less fuel?

« on: December 18, 2016, 06:06:47 PM »

My 250rs top end bit the dust a few weeks ago out in the dunes (age/low compression, no catastrophic failure) and I opted to go for the 310 set up from ESR. The previous motor was a simple .20 over bore with a 38mm air striker carb, fmf pipe, and air box removed. It ran perfect (maybe a little lean on the pilot) with the carb set up from esr at about 1100ft ( I think the esr setting is ddg needle on 4th clip, +-182 main, and like a 50 pilot?). When I put the 310 kit on it with their reed set up and trx7 house port I bumped up the pilot 1 size (52 maybe?), the main to a 185 to start. I also went from running straight pump 91 to 50/50 91 and 110 vp mixed at 32:1 w/ klotz on esr's 93oct dome.

With that said I took it on its maiden voyage today and the bottom end to 2/3 throttle was near perfect but around 3/4 throttle it blubbered out. I ended up having to jet the main down to a 172 to get it to even take over 3/4 throttle, but it is still fat and the plugs are coming out very dark and fat from the top end. I am concerned that a bigger motor wants so much of a smaller main jet. Is this just a side effect from the greater air mass, reeds that arnt 30 yrs old and running race fuel or am I missing something else in the tuning that is causing the main to be fat?

4

Suspension and Chassis / 87 rear rotor spacing

« on: November 17, 2014, 08:15:23 PM »

so I just attempted to take apart my rear ends and may have stumbled on something. it appears that the nut threaded all the way out to the wheel side of the threads, and when I try to spin it, it moves, but then gets real tight. I put more muscle into it and it popped and it was loose again, but the nut does not move no matter how much I spin it, so im guessing this thing is stripped/cross threaded. may this be my issue?

5

Suspension and Chassis / 87 rear rotor spacing

« on: November 12, 2014, 08:55:34 PM »

All of the parts are there, including the slider and the c-clip. I have looked the carrier over and picked the rear end up to check the axle. I gave it a few love taps with a hammer to see if it would move but the axle is tight and firm. I have to think its in the carrier and just something I can't see it. The carrier was replaced probobly 8-10 years ago. How does the rear end come apart? Looks like I'm doing some exploratory surgery. So there is no adjusting the axle left/right via the large jam nut on the right side of the axle correct?

6

Suspension and Chassis / 87 rear rotor spacing

« on: November 11, 2014, 09:25:03 PM »

So I ran into a snag last weekend out at the dunes. My rear rotor started grinding into my caliper mounting bracket. I have looked at this thing over and over again and cant figure out how my axle/rotor have shifted to the left side/what the eff moved. The only thing that seems out of place is it looks like there are more threads showing where the big axle nut is at, but I might just be imagining things. the axle is nice and tight with no movement back/forth or side to side, and rolls freely with the brakes removed. I have never removed/pulled apart a rear axle/carrier so this is new to me.

any thoughts on what could have moved? Thanks