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Engine and Bottom End / Kick back!
« on: May 26, 2015, 09:01:12 PM »
It ended up being the tether switch, to much resistance
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If you ride where there is any water puddles or mud you should keep your air box.
I am having the same problem with my stock carb that countryboy is/was having. I bought a carb rebuild kit and have adjusted the float and replaced the needle. (shindy carb kits are of terrible quality). It is still leaking. Carb was thoroughly cleaned and inspected. I even installed a hose and put it to my mouth, blowing air into the carb with the bowl off and would move the float manually up and down...it worked great. However, it still drips when gas is running through it.
Mine acted like it had some mismatched parts for some reason. It was like the float was not designed for the carb I had. I put my 38AS on and it took some modification to get it to fit but it runs much better now.
Part of me wonders if the ethanol in the gas has done something to the carbs, but I don't know.
I thought in order to run a 38 a/s carb you had to remove the airbox or at least the lid....Is that not the case?
its up to you. like stated it will press tight into the stock intake manifold without machining, but the boot on the air box side i do not know, it may need machined on that side, that is if you are running stock boot between airbox and carb. perhaps someone else can chime in.
Looking at getting this carb as well! I have a similar setup. .020" over with a fmf "rev" pipe and vforce 2 reeds. Should we be changing our pipes if we go with the A/S or will the FMF's be fine until more motor work is done?