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Messages - JOEY11

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1
I’ve got one of those ignition kits and it does work well and very simple to install. I’ve got just over 210lb cranking comp and the original R ignition it was a pain to get it started. I took the svc Honda ign kit off after testing to make sure it worked and then put in a 99 CR ign since I got it cheap compared to what used 01 kits go for so that’s what I use now and keep the svc Honda kit as a backup for a new engine I’ll eventually put in.

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Engine and Bottom End / Re: Debris found on crank
« on: June 14, 2022, 03:46:47 AM »
I guess everyone starts somewhere and why these forums are here to help the inexperienced learn. I had a feeling the piston didn’t look good by reading other posts showing pics especially since the seller said it only had 10mins of run time on this piston and I think I knew better but didn’t want to admit it. I’m in NJ and don’t know of anyone that can teach me about this so I’ll have to send it out to be corrected. Luckily somehow my running engine is still going so I have time to fix this one without needing to rush getting it back together.

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Engine and Bottom End / Re: Debris found on crank
« on: June 13, 2022, 09:05:30 AM »
Here's some pics

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Engine and Bottom End / Re: 2001 cr250r ignition swap question
« on: June 12, 2022, 01:06:30 PM »
I’m just learning from what I read on forums and apply it if it sounds legit. Probably not the best way but I don’t know anyone with much knowledge of 2 strokes. I could see the coloring on the strap move as a changed the timing and it didn’t have any detonation that I could hear (not that I would probably notice it) and it didn’t run worse. I’m not looking for max performance and don’t race competitively so I guess what I’ve done so far has kept it from melting a piston after 1.5yrs riding every weekend on pump gas has worked. I didn’t know all this different things could change the mark on the strap so it’s really not a good way to adjust timing if you want it to be right. Thanks for taking the time to write that and I think there’s a lot of guys that tune like I have.

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Engine and Bottom End / Re: Debris found on crank
« on: June 12, 2022, 10:42:26 AM »
I looked at the pieces again and they’re rubber. The seller said he was told it needed main seals due to burning crankcase oil. The seal looks installed flush so I’m not sure why it would be sucking oil. I attached pics of the piston and cylinder and I think it looks ok but I’m no expert and plan on doing a leak down and seeing for sure if that’s the issue. He’s got 1 piece of the trx gasket and says the head is shaved so I’ll do a compression test also. I bought a compression tester and tested the engine in my trike and it’s was 200lbs tested 3 times and that’s after 1.5yrs of running 93 pump gas with 927 the whole time always from the same shell station and same exact pump. I bought some Torco110 to start mixing with 93 for this new engine but I might run it in the current one. I can’t believe after riding every weekend for almost 2yrs the top end is still strong.

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Engine and Bottom End / Re: Debris found on crank
« on: June 12, 2022, 04:19:11 AM »
That’s not good. I carefully removed some of the pieces and it’s not hard so I didn’t even think it could be that. It feels rubbery but Im sure you’ve seen it a hundred times and know what it is.

7
Engine and Bottom End / Debris found on crank
« on: June 11, 2022, 12:47:33 PM »
I got my 87 engine and took the covers off just to check it out and it’s definitely a nice engine. All the case threads feel tight and new like it hasn’t been abused it’s whole life. I was looking through the intake and noticed a piece of rubber or something on the crank. I pulled the cylinder off and found these little pieces of something only between the rod and crank weights in the pic. Any idea what it could be? It looks like pieces of permatex. The seller said it’s a fresh build and it definitely looks like it. I’m going to do a leak down first and hopefully it’s seals like he thought it needed.

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Engine and Bottom End / Re: 2001 cr250r ignition swap question
« on: June 11, 2022, 12:39:37 PM »
I also have a bdt plate and there’s 2 sets of holes and you’ll use the 01 obviously. I was told to turn the stator as far counter clockwise as possible to start. I ran it a little and the timing mark on the plug wasn’t quite right so I removed the little plate so I could retard it a tad more. That put the heat mark right on the bend of the plug strap.

9
Engine and Bottom End / Re: 87 engine in 85 fitment
« on: June 04, 2022, 05:37:37 AM »
Thanks. He says it’s got a new top end but it was burning trans oil due to dried up seals from sitting before putting the top end on and the clutch side crank seal is bad so I’m hoping that’s all it is. He isn’t sure of the cranking compression or uccr so I may have some questions about figuring that out since I want to run pump 93 in it. It supposedly has all oem internals and some mild port work. I can tell my main brgs are on their way out and there’s some stripped case bolts in my engine run this new engine while I repair mine.

10
Engine and Bottom End / 87 engine in 85 fitment
« on: June 03, 2022, 07:21:45 PM »
I’m assuming everything will bolt on but just wanted to check in case it doesn’t and I know before running into it. I’m buying and 87 engine and will be swapping it into my 85 frame to replace the 85 engine. I shouldn’t run into any problems should I? I’m going to have to check compression and squish as well as a leak down before putting it in and I’m sure I’ll need help figuring out compression since I want to run 93.

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Engine and Bottom End / Re: Clutch arm play adjustment
« on: May 29, 2022, 06:39:42 AM »
I searched this a lot and saw that post. It’s really close but wanted to get it perfect since I spent so much time trying to get it spaced correctly. I tested the clutch in the shop yesterday and it seems to work well so I’ll leave it alone for now. The clutch pull is hard and I have pretty solid forearms but i could see it being a workout after an hr ride.I’ll lube the new cable and grease the new lever/perch and see if that helps at all.

I lubed the new cable and put some anti seize on the lever pivot and the after riding a little it definitely softened up the lever pull. I guess the plates were stuck together and some oil splashing around loosened them. The old clutch wasn’t bad but it pulls much harder with the new setup. Also put in a rebuilt CB since the bearing was a little loose and the motor sounds much better. It almost has a gear whine sound now and vibrates less.

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Engine and Bottom End / Re: Clutch arm play adjustment
« on: May 28, 2022, 02:21:15 PM »
Yes it did. Pressure plate, washer, top hat piece, needle bearing and rod. I bought another kit just to get the additional washer because I figured I’d need it. I bought a slightly thicker washer at a hardware store but was afraid to use it since it wasn’t hardened steel. With that washer it was lined up perfect with minimal arm travel. All the parts are brand new except the center clutch hub. I have a video showing the arm travel but it won’t let me post it due to size.

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Engine and Bottom End / Clutch arm play adjustment
« on: May 28, 2022, 11:11:39 AM »
I installed a new clutch arm, 89 update kit, oem clutch discs, cr500 springs w/washers also a new basket. Its about 1/4” seems excessive but I couldn’t get it shorter and used 2 of the washers that come in the 89 kit and with 3 there was no play. Do you think it’s ok where it is? I have the cable adjusted properly and the clutch grabs right away and goes into gear smoothly. I just didn’t like that the arm isn’t exactly at 90deg and it’s got a little more play than I’d like.

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Engine and Bottom End / Re: Ignition problem/bad cdi
« on: November 15, 2021, 07:00:13 AM »

[/quote]

Stator rewind service:

https://www.rickystator.com/page/rewinds

Joe
[/quote]

Thanks. I didn't know they provided that service. Have you used them or know anyone that has? That's one of the places I've heard mixed reviews on with their new stators.

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Engine and Bottom End / Re: Ignition problem/bad cdi
« on: November 12, 2021, 06:33:51 AM »
My 85 came with an aftermarket cdi and stator but didn't find that out until may hours of thinking it's fuel related. Once I figured it out I swapped both with used oem and it runs like it should. I've yet to hear someone say they've had luck running the aftermarket ebay junk electronics on these bikes so I can't believe these companies are still selling them. I wish someone could rewind our oem stators or make one that actually works like oem but I guess there's not enough need for it.

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