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Messages - Grande huevos

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1
Engine and Bottom End / Chains
« on: July 24, 2017, 11:39:03 AM »
Curious what kinda of chain people recommend. I have a 363 and I ride XC and hit the sand couple times a year. I previously ran the renthal z ring chain and it's been awesome, the only issue is it's thicker then other chains so you can't run a case saver with a 15T front sprocket and that's what I would like to do..


Also what are you guys running for sprockets? The only 15T I've been able to find is a sun star

2
Suspension and Chassis / Re: Ball joint replacement for a arms
« on: July 18, 2017, 02:35:04 PM »
Awesome good info thanks for the help guys!

3
Suspension and Chassis / Re: Ball joint replacement for a arms
« on: July 17, 2017, 11:04:42 AM »
I guess I misunderstood what you were asking I'm sorry. Your looking to replace the balljoints, I thought you were asking about the boots. I wonder that to, I have a set of +3's with no ball joints at all.
Did a quick Search and apparently people were upgrading to automotive tie rod joints , for the burgard a arms as replacements.



You wouldn't happen to have a part number would you? Or know about how much it would cost to replace all 4?

4
Suspension and Chassis / Re: Ball joint replacement for a arms
« on: July 16, 2017, 11:10:36 PM »
Lol good question. I have a set of burgard aarms that I am running and the boots are torn. I was thinking of taking a boot off and take it to a auto parts store and see if they could match them. I haven't done that yet. Would that be a option for you? I'm pretty sure Burgard finally went under


I'm not sure if that's an option or not. I guess as long as they haven't been torn for long to where they have started to rust then you could get away with just replacing the rubber. But it would be nice to know either way for the future or if one ever got broken somehow.  I've read lots and lots of bad things about burgards customer service so it would come as no surprise if they went out of business! Surely somebody else makes a direct replacement

5
Suspension and Chassis / Ball joint replacement for a arms
« on: July 16, 2017, 03:59:13 PM »
I'm looking at getting a used set of burgard arms but the rubber boots are torn and I was wondering if I have to get the replacement joints from burgard or if they would work from another company ?

6
Suspension and Chassis / Re: Switching from +2 to +3 front end
« on: July 14, 2017, 03:23:07 PM »
How serious of a rider are you.   Do you adjust your suspension for every ride/race?  If your not constantly tuning your shocks, then i doubts its worth your time to have them adjusted for the longer arms.  They will feel softer to you, but that can be adjusted with pre load.

Its all about how much you want to spend and how hard/fast do you ride.  Most people dont take advantage of the suspension adjustments they have.
I used to ride a lot but unfortunately I simply don't have time for it anymore so I only get out a hand full of times per year. I ride at a pretty fast pace but no I have never made adjustments per ride. I had them setup and then I tweaked them a little when I first had them built and then I've left them alone.  I didn't know if it was bad for them or if I would notice anything drastically if I made the switch in arm length without servicing them. I'd love to not spend any extra money but if it's going to make my ride handle different or damage the shock over time then i could justify spending the cash.

7
Suspension and Chassis / Switching from +2 to +3 front end
« on: July 14, 2017, 01:58:16 PM »
I've been wanting to make the switch from my current +2 setup to a +3 setup. The shock length will stay the same as long as I stay with standard travel correct? I'm hoping I can just buy some + 3  arms and keep my front shocks that I already have and just get them re valved for the +3s

8
Suspension and Chassis / Re: Difference in aftermarket frames
« on: July 13, 2017, 01:05:00 AM »

The space between the swingarm and cases would be how thick of material they used when building the swingarm.
[/quote]

So you don't think that a frame would solve the issue then? Hmmm... well I have a lone star swinger and it's to close for comfort especially when I'm going to slapping in a motor that's brand new top to
Bottom!! Any info on the clearance from different brands of swingers?

9
Wanted / Looking for a +3 setup
« on: July 13, 2017, 12:58:54 AM »
Looking to switch from my +2 setup to some +3

10
Suspension and Chassis / Re: Difference in aftermarket frames
« on: July 12, 2017, 02:51:32 PM »
I've had really good luck with Laeger chassis'. Like @Skeans1 said you may or may not have some fitment issues. I had some minor issues with intake but just made my own to solve the problem. My LRD pipe fits perfectly on my frame. The cases on mine are very close to the swingarm. I also prefer the Laeger std/wide frame to the narrow but its all personal preference. You could always have Steve Buchinsky build you a complete new one too and have it tailored to what you want.

As much as I'd love to buy a new frame the price tags are a bit scary  from what I've seen. DR lobo, Walsh , and Lone star. I've found a few "cheaper" used ones but I haven't been able to convince myself to pull the trigger on one.. the main reason for wanting a aftermarket frame is to get better clearance between the swing arm and cases but it doesn't sound like the leagers have much either?? my oem frame doesn't appear to have any and I'm scared to stick a motor back into it with brand new cases!! I have a friend with a nice arens and it looks like he has a solid 1/2-3/4" space so I assumed all after market frames had the same as a way to fix the issue of busting cases so easily

11
Suspension and Chassis / Re: Difference in aftermarket frames
« on: July 11, 2017, 07:47:58 AM »
Also if it's a cr linkage can you use any shock and just toss the oem linkage out? What are the benefits of running the no link setup? 

12
Suspension and Chassis / Difference in aftermarket frames
« on: July 11, 2017, 07:37:57 AM »
I'm currently on the hunt for a aftermarket frame and I have a few question that hopefully you guys can answer for me.  First off do all the aftermarket frames have a sufficient gap between the swing arm and the back the cases? My oem frame has almost none! Maybe slide a index card in between the two of them.  Second are there any major differences between leagers narrow, lone star Baja, and an arens?  Do they all accept oem hardware, and do you have to have any brand specific parts (a arms, swing arm, nerf bars, etc..)   Pros and cons from one frame to the next? Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
.

13
Carburetor, Intake, and Exhaust / Opinions on my plug chop
« on: September 11, 2016, 12:20:36 PM »



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14
Carburetor, Intake, and Exhaust / Opinions on my plug chop
« on: September 10, 2016, 10:35:36 AM »
Quote from: Jerry Hall;69487
The porcelain cone of the dissected spark plug does not show any detonation that I can see,  The operating temperature of the porcelain cone is too cold.  I do not know if that is because the heat range is too cold or the combustion temperatures are not in the range where they should be when an engine is making close to maximum power.  You have cut off the most important part of the spark plug that tells experienced tuners about the heat range and combustion temperature.  Please do not destroy any more good spark plugs trying to find the optimum jetting.  Please read this link.   http://trx250r.org/threads/7326-More-power=67051&viewfull=1#post67051    I hope that it will prevent you from becoming another victim of another one of the very popular internet myths that are causing novice tuners to destroy pistons when trying to tune their engines using the spark plug dissection approach to jetting.  

Show me the top of the piston.  I can tell you much more about where you are in your search for the main jet that will give you the highest power and whether your piston temperature is knocking on deaths door.

Coolant temperature has very little to do with burning a piston unless the engine package was not well designed and tested.  A well designed package will not be driven into detonation with 175 deg coolant temps.  A poorly designed package can experience detonation when coolant temps are at room temperature. A hole will not burn in the center of the top of the piston or burn off the edge of the piston on the exhaust port side unless the engine is experiencing detonation.

 Detonation will raise it's ugly head when one or more of the following conditions exist:

1.  The engine is too lean.
2.  The ignition timing is too advanced.
3.  The cylinder head design does not match the rest of the engine package.
4.  The exhaust pipe design does not match the rest of the engine package.
5.  The exhaust pipe discharge path has too much restriction.
6. The fuel's octane rating is below what the engine package requires.  You will never cause an engine to experience detonation by using fuel that has a higher octane rating than what the engine package requires.


This is the first plug I've ever cut because I keep reading to look at the base of porcelain.. I normally just look at the electrode.  My complete engine was built new by Pete @ Hybrid Engineering so I'm assuming all is up to par. I started by dialing in the air screw pilot and needle which feels great but it always seemed very sluggish up top with a 200 main. I couldn't  even pull the front end off the ground in 3rd or 4th gear and it felt sputtery so I dropped it to a 190 and that's where I'm Sitting now. The bike has woken up tons and feels great! Now she will stand up in 5th and the power comes on smooth all the way through.. The plug on the left is after 30 min hard ride with 190 main and the plug on the right is same jetting but with a 200 main.

Thea other pics are all of the 190 plug




Here is my piston after 14 hrs of running with the 200 main jet




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15
Engine and Bottom End / What temp does your big bore run at?
« on: September 08, 2016, 06:19:17 PM »
My 330 with Afco never broke 175-180* at the dunes on a 172-175 main

Same bike with a 363 runs about same temp with main jet set at 190-200


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