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Messages - toydoc

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1
Projects / My 86 ressurection...and restoration build
« on: February 22, 2015, 06:38:03 AM »
Quote from: Don"HO"Daddy;50387
Anybody old enough to know what this is? LOL

Very sharp! They had that bike at the dealer when I bought my 86 250r. If I remember right, they had very good deals on new VF1000. I ended up going home with the new 1986 Ninja 1000R bike. The honda looks super nice, but the specs didn't match up. The mind set back then was the V motor is out for performance

2
Pics and Vids / The good ol' days
« on: December 03, 2014, 04:00:01 AM »
They are all BETA , Super 8 and VHS video. LOL

3
Carburetor, Intake, and Exhaust / Dial-A-Jet: Opinions?
« on: December 03, 2014, 03:50:51 AM »
They work. They can get dirty and stop working, so you would need to filter them on a ATV. The sled guys like them because you have 2, 3 or 4 carbs and not one is easy to get to or change jets. They also have 30*+ temp swings on the same day / ride.

4
Quote from: SmartCarb;46467
Kawasaki used a keyhole shaped carb back in the 70s and there have been several variations over the years. Lots of aftermarketeers have offered offset bore carburetors. Today we have this shape patented and the predictive technique used to design it. PSI actually was infringing on our patents a year after they saw an SC at the hillclimb in Jackson. So as gentlemen we offered Bruce Kahlhammer a licensing arrangement to continue selling the V shaped venturi they had started using, (not the early D shaped big air they have patents for) however after some rude discourse we ultimately had to serve them with a cease and desist order. Turns out the design they had didn't work all that well and they weren't selling enough to really matter. You'll note they had large scallops cut into the venturi to diminish laminar flow and frankly were going in the wrong direction. I'm not sure they are even still in business, which is too bad, they had some pretty cool stuff at one time.

Bruce did spin out back then. Went through a divorce, then a group remade Scorpion brand snowmobiles and ordered ALL the production motors from Bruce and didn't pay or went belly up. Sad deal. Last I knew he out in Utah playing with mountain sled heads.

Odd thing about patents, they don't stop anyone from using it. It just gives you the right to take them to court and fight

5
Quote from: udontknowme;46315
thats not bad, all things considered, and with  the new technology theyre using. i have a idea for a twin cylinder  engine totalling 500cc. if it ever makes it to fruition i estimate about  4.5 hp per CI or .28 per cc, using gas and a standard keihin or mukini  style carb and no fancy electronics of any kind. seems like the size of  your wallet is always the determing factor  :highly_amused:

Quote from: Jerry Hall;46320
Snowmobile engines do not usually have their power over as wide of an RPM range as engines with transmissions.  It is a lot easier to make huge peak power numbers if you do not need it over a wide RPM range.  The CVT can hold the engine at it's peak power.

I'll side track the topic a bit, sorry. All of my Mod sled motors make peak HP over 500+ rpm sweep just like mod ATV motors. Plus they are .30 hp per cc. A CVT can't just start at peak HP. Most start at 4500 ~ 5000 RPM then end at 9800 ~ 10,000 RPM. To tune a CVT and WIN takes alot more work then you think. I wouldn't use the word easier in any part of it. Your 60' time is everything and if your waiting to make power, you wont win. IMO it takes running 1.1's in 60' and a peaky motor wont turn that time

6
For sure foaming can do this. If you run it on a dyno with fuel flow reading, you will see fuel flow go erratic then no flow under WOT. When you see fuel flow bounce, kill the motor, check to see if its grounding out (just as he did). If it looks good, move the carb back / add intake boot.  Retest, if still a issue add weight to the bell mouth (epoxy wheel weights to clamp or bowl). Sometimes it's not just foam, the vibration will act as a Hz frequency on the needle and seat, like a impact on a nut. Then your into fluid dampers and moving rpm around

7
Pics and Vids / APT Smart Carb Testing today 40mm Billet Sphynx 363
« on: October 15, 2014, 04:17:29 AM »
Quote from: Jerry Hall;44399
Most two stroke engines can be a little rich in the RPM range before the power peak without appreciably affecting the power in this range.  A two stroke that is rich after the power peak will not rev and may have a rich miss-fire.  The majority of the highly modified two-strokes I have worked with will be too lean in the  RPM range before the power peak if we install a main jet that supplies the correct amount of fuel in the RPM region past the power peak. An engine that has the mixture correct in the RPM range past the power peak will have good over-rev and will run clean in this RPM range.

Knowing these facts forces us to make a choice of how we tune our carburetors, gear our bikes and then ride our bikes. Once we make these tuning and gearing choices we must ride our bikes in a manner for which it was tuned.

Tuning state #1.
If we ride our bikes on a closed course track where we never reach a speed in top gear where the engine will need to rev past the power peak, we can install a main jet that will produce the best power and acceleration up to an a few hundred RPM past the power peak.  If we take this engine package and gearing and try to run it WOT in top gear where it will try to rev a 1000 RPM or so past the power peak, it will probably have a rich miss-fire in that highly over-reved RPM range.  

Tuning State #2
If we decide to take our closed course bike and not change the gearing and just run it WOT in 6 gear we can usually lean the main jet and get a few more MPH and not hurt the engine.  With this leaner main jet the engine will probably be too lean in the RPM range before the power peak and we may hurt a piston if we ride it with these carburetor setting on a closed course or pull a hill where the engine is pulled down to the RPM range below the power peak.

Tuning State #3
If we want to do most of our running at top speed and get our highest top speed, we can use our carburetor setting and maybe richen it up a jet or two over what we used in tuning state #1, providing we take enough teeth off of the axle sprocket or add teeth to the counter shaft sprocket so that when we run it WOT in 6th gear, the engine peaks or does not have enough power to pull no more than a hundred RPM or so past the power peak.

Cool stuff Jerry. What would really drive your point is if you could dig up a 250R dyno graph. Overlay a tad rich run to leaner side run, show hp shift with no real dip in peak hp. Then arrows in the hp graph for "You are here, Tuning State #1, Tuning State #2, Tuning State #3.

That would be a good visual

8
Other ATV's / *Old rides we regret selling...My old 1987 LT500 Quadzilla*
« on: September 18, 2014, 04:02:05 AM »
1. Alsport Tri-Sport with the factory CCW twin cyl 340cc.
At the time it felt like running a Top Fuel rail thru the woods. NO suspension, solid axle and light the rear tires at will, at any speed. Good times

2. 86 TRX250R that I bought new and then turbo charged that same year. Nothing like todays stuff, but in 86 it was bad azz. I kept the turbo kit I made for it so I could recreate it, but not sure it would be the same

9
Carburetor, Intake, and Exhaust / Who can bore my 39 pwk to 40.5?
« on: August 13, 2014, 04:03:43 AM »
So Doug did the porting and said the 39 was fine. Doug can bore it and take your $$, but didn't. That says something, I think anyway

10
Projects / summer projects
« on: August 05, 2014, 04:15:34 AM »
Good point. Just throwing out some stuff to help.

The mod will work (add gap), but no reed is happy flexing on a edge back at the screws, on any motor.

11
Projects / summer projects
« on: August 04, 2014, 03:51:30 AM »
With the spacer under the stopper, it moves the flex point to one spot, that edge. That effect on the reed will feel like the stopper is removed and is just hitting the roof. Not sure if thats the way to go for power or reed life (hasn't worked for me anyway).

12
Projects / summer projects
« on: August 01, 2014, 04:16:04 AM »
IMO, Bad idea not to use any stop at all (or spacer). Bend the tips of the stop out to your spec, trim the stop ends back some if it's hitting roof, I'd set them to 10mm. Your reed mod looks alot like the very first billet V-force. and they work super.

It looks like your running a single reed. I'd fab up a extra tension reed and see if you get some TQ back into your motor. Dig up some used reed pedals, cut them down to 1/3 length and lay them on top of the reed pedal you run now. Run it and see if it helps. Cut them back more to add rpm, retest.

Very nice work by the way

13
Pics and Vids / Packard puma times from the Michigan national races
« on: June 22, 2014, 07:16:48 AM »
Cool!

That 60' time is everything :peaceful:

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