Ive been asked to put a semi formal write up on how to float the ground on the 250r stator. For now Im going to just get it out of the stator and maybe later i can write something on rectifiying and changing output to d/c. Remember that "floating the ground" is much easier to think of as "isolating the ground" because on a standard atc/trx the lighting coil ground is grounding through the stator body and the path travels through the engine to chassis. (This is why there is only a lighting coil wire coming from the stator connection and not a ground wire.
I start by feeding a length of wire down the sheath, and through the stock grommet (sharing one of the holes that is already punctured) this can be tough but if you cut the wire on a diagnal so it is sharp and use di electric grease or similiar it goes right through. I then unclip the harness from the stator and follow the same path up to the body.
Your unsoldering the stator coil wire from the "v groove" that is attached to the metal portion of the stator body. Some aftermarket stators have a coil wire in one groove and another wire soldered in the other set of grooves that are over the plastic portion. Remember its always the one attached to the metal portion "as its ground through chassis"
Slide a piece of shrink over the new wire and solder it to the end of the coil wire that you unsoldered from the groove
This 3rd pic shows how the wire is routed tight against the stator coil out of harms way from hitting the flywheel as it spins.
Hopefully this helps, this is the actual ground isolation. You now have 5 wires at the stator. Ill cover from there in another chapter.
