Author Topic: Painting Plastics (Read 5271 times)

pinned250r · « **on:** November 14, 2013, 03:10:29 PM »

I know we had this discussion on the old forum, but im not allowed there and am facing a dillema. I have a set of beat up OEM, no cracks, just have that spider webbing. I want to paint them either white or charcoal(they are currently white), just curious if anyone has any experience in doing this and what prep steps you took. I have painted vehicle and done plenty of body work, but i am curious how this paint hold up and what not. Any input is appreciated.
Thanks guys
God Bless
Colin

jcs003 · « **Reply #1 on:** November 14, 2013, 03:34:27 PM »

they will obviously need scuffed and an adhesion promoter will be needed. also, i used a plastic specific paint along with the adhesion promoter.

john

pinned250r · « **Reply #2 on:** November 14, 2013, 03:44:40 PM »

Yeah ive painted plastic mirrors, fender flares, etc before for vehicles, and i used an 3M product called like "plasti-stick" came out like a white, then i primed, painted, cleared. it always turned out fine on those applications, but they dont flex all day long like our R plastics do when riding.

johnny22 · « **Reply #3 on:** November 14, 2013, 03:57:58 PM »

We scuff them first then do bulldog for the adhesion promoter, then sealer, base and clear. Mine have held up fine but mine are also cut pretty short

jcs003 · « **Reply #4 on:** November 14, 2013, 04:02:49 PM »

Quote from: johnny22;17510

We scuff them first then do bulldog for the adhesion promoter, then sealer, base and clear. Mine have held up fine but mine are also cut pretty short

yes, mine were maier and were race cut. they held up well and showed very lil wear.

john

pinned250r · « **Reply #5 on:** November 14, 2013, 04:17:24 PM »

Awesome guys, thank you. The fronts are race cut on these.
Next question, with the plastics being that old and having the spiderwebbing, think that will make a difference?

johnny22 · « **Reply #6 on:** November 14, 2013, 04:26:55 PM »

I would sand them out. Try 600 wetsand and if that doesnt work do 320 then 600 then scuff. They'll probably peak through if you dont sand them

pinned250r · « **Reply #7 on:** November 14, 2013, 04:39:19 PM »

10-4, thanks guys!

Bigred · « **Reply #8 on:** November 14, 2013, 05:46:59 PM »

Ppg has a plastic prep kit buy and use that then paint um like a car. Best stuff on the market hands down

atv fan 28 · « **Reply #9 on:** November 14, 2013, 10:13:21 PM »

i know these guys can paint plastics which will hold up very well!!!!

http://excesspaint.com/ATVS.html

dariusld · « **Reply #10 on:** November 15, 2013, 09:52:30 AM »

I thought spider webs led to cracking? That's what happened to mine. If so, should you cut them and then paint?

mennis1971 · « **Reply #11 on:** November 15, 2013, 09:21:04 PM »

Many different ways to achieve that goal of painting them. Another alternative that no one has brought up is to dry sand them and ruff them up to make them "hairy". Then prime them using a primer with flex agent. This gives the primer something to adhere to. When sanded it will be smooth. I have painted oem R hoods this way and it holds up very very well. IDK if I'd do a whole set of plastics tho. They flex to much and take a beating too(such as mx or xc). These aren't car bumpers(which don't flex very much). For the cost of quality paint supplies alone(not counting labor or just your time if you can do it yourself), you wouldn't be to far off from just buying some new plastic. I'm not saying it can't be done cuz it can, but it's up to you to decide if it's gonna be worth it. I also have some old oem plastic that I've thought about doing(and have all the equipment needed to do it plus can get the paint for cheap, but IMO it's still just not worth it FOR ME). Good luck and let us know what you decide and how they turn out, if you do them.

Bigred · « **Reply #12 on:** November 15, 2013, 10:23:09 PM »

Priming them will make the material to thick u want it thin like sealer 2 coats base and 2 coats clear for the fenders

mennis1971 · « **Reply #13 on:** November 16, 2013, 01:18:37 AM »

I'll agree that less is better, but the surface(and it's condition) you're painting has a lot to do with how to paint it. If it was new fenders, then I'd agree 100%. New = scuff, adhesion promoter, sealer, 2 base and 2 clear. There is no reason to put on more than 2 good coats of clear(or any material really). Anymore than that and it just starts to get rubbery and causes problems possibly. The spiderwebbing must be gotten rid of for it to look good. That's going to involve a lot of sanding. Sealer isn't gonna get rid of the webbing. I'm not trying to argue btw, just throwing my opinion out there. Like I said earlier, there are different ways to do this and it still be right. Get it wrong tho, and it will be a mess. The prep work is the key. Painting is the easy part when the preps done correctly. No more comments from me on this. I'm not gonna start a .net war(are those over now??? IDK, this is why I don't post much anymore here or there).

Good luck pinned. This is one of those endless debates that everyone will have there own way. The proof will be in the end result and how durable it ends up being.

Bigred · « **Reply #14 on:** November 16, 2013, 08:46:52 AM »

No arguing he either man lol. Hed need to use a 2 part epoxy filler on the spider webing only way it would work. But likr u said he will have some money tied up in it for sure