Cylinder heat caused by pipe

[Pumashine]

If you going to put a bigger stinger on you cut right at the end of the cone. You will only have to sand off less than 1/4" to get it opened to 1 1/8" ID. I have done 3 of these. One trx5 and two trx9r.

I actually cut just before the weld in the cone area. Did not want to hit the weld with the band saw blade. If you put the stinger in the band saw clamps you just have to hold the pipe at a strange angle to make a straight cut. Helps to put a tube the same size at the other end of the clamp to get it to hold the stinger securely.

[rsss396]

well its a little easier for me on my pipes because all I build is drag pipes, if the drag pipe has a silencer the pipe is only 1-1/2" long with a flare on the end. I have a solid metal cone and a hyd press and I form a small flare on the end about 1/4-1/2" long.
I then over expand the rear of the pipe opening so the flare will fit in, then I work the end of the pipe with a body hammer closing it back down in size. Now when you go to weld, it is not a butt joint but a overlap so no weld buggers and has a smooth venturi shape to aid flow. I have butt welded them then took a grinder and cleaned everything up.
On new pipes from scratch I have also butt welded or slightly slide the tailpipe inside the cone and welded it up but before I welded the rear cone onto the belly section of the pipe I reached down the cone and blended this transition at the rear of the cone.

[Bowtie316]

If you going to put a bigger stinger on you cut right at the end of the cone. You will only have to sand off less than 1/4" to get it opened to 1 1/8" ID. I have done 3 of these. One trx5 and two trx9r.

I actually cut just before the weld in the cone area. Did not want to hit the weld with the band saw blade. If you put the stinger in the band saw clamps you just have to hold the pipe at a strange angle to make a straight cut. Helps to put a tube the same size at the other end of the clamp to get it to hold the stinger securely.

So you just cut off the end of the cone to match the same ID as the new stinger. Thats what I planned to do, then try to flare the stinger slightly to fit over the cone outlet to get away from a butt weld.

well its a little easier for me on my pipes because all I build is drag pipes, if the drag pipe has a silencer the pipe is only 1-1/2" long with a flare on the end. I have a solid metal cone and a hyd press and I form a small flare on the end about 1/4-1/2" long.
I then over expand the rear of the pipe opening so the flare will fit in, then I work the end of the pipe with a body hammer closing it back down in size. Now when you go to weld, it is not a butt joint but a overlap so no weld buggers and has a smooth venturi shape to aid flow. I have butt welded them then took a grinder and cleaned everything up.
On new pipes from scratch I have also butt welded or slightly slide the tailpipe inside the cone and welded it up but before I welded the rear cone onto the belly section of the pipe I reached down the cone and blended this transition at the rear of the cone.

The way I interpret your description, it seems like it would create some turbulence where the lip of the stinger is inside the cone.

[rsss396]

When I flare the end of the stinger I see it as being simular to the "bell mouth"on a carburator and a tapered intake boot.
That may not be the best comparision but any turbulance right at the narrowest point where velocity is highest will be worse than any point farther away.
The end of my flare on its back side, has its edge dressed so when touching the metal of the pipe's rear cone it does not have much of a edge to disturb flow. There is a angle change at that point but that is what I refered to as my "bell mouth"

I have also slid the pipe into the end of a flared stinger like you are planning and it works very well, I actually like to that when I still have the rear cone still not welded on the belly that way I insure that the transition is smooth. and if not I can take a gringer and dress it up.
Lots of ways to skin a cat every way has its good and bad points.

One thing to remember you are going from being on the high end of the scale with the 1-1/8 stinger to now on the lowend of the scale with the 1-1/4. If you were trying to make it on a bigger Puma or saber then your transition would become more important. Not that you can bugger it up but a little disruption of flow at the end of the pipe is not going to be a big deal.

[F-Red]

I have already ordered the bends, straight pipe and perforated tube to replace stinger and modify the silencer.  Will this affect the power delivery of the motor?  It has a "mid-top dune port", will a larger stinger give up some power somewhere?

If you don't me asking, where did you get the materials, for this mod?

[Bowtie316]

When I flare the end of the stinger I see it as being simular to the "bell mouth"on a carburator and a tapered intake boot.
That may not be the best comparision but any turbulance right at the narrowest point where velocity is highest will be worse than any point farther away.
The end of my flare on its back side, has its edge dressed so when touching the metal of the pipe's rear cone it does not have much of a edge to disturb flow. There is a angle change at that point but that is what I refered to as my "bell mouth"

I have also slid the pipe into the end of a flared stinger like you are planning and it works very well, I actually like to that when I still have the rear cone still not welded on the belly that way I insure that the transition is smooth. and if not I can take a gringer and dress it up.
Lots of ways to skin a cat every way has its good and bad points.

One thing to remember you are going from being on the high end of the scale with the 1-1/8 stinger to now on the lowend of the scale with the 1-1/4. If you were trying to make it on a bigger Puma or saber then your transition would become more important. Not that you can bugger it up but a little disruption of flow at the end of the pipe is not going to be a big deal.

I see what you mean, either way there is going to be some turbulence, oh well it's got to be a step in the right direction.

If you don't me asking, where did you get the materials, for this mod?

I plan to do a full write-up on here with sources, in-process pictures and feedback on sound, temp, and power delivery when I do the mod.  It looks like it will be a couple weeks before I will have the perforated tube so I will get some ride time on it with the standard stinger for comparison.

I ordered the 1-1/4 od mandrel bend, the 1-1/4 straight pipe and 1-3/8 straight pipe (for slip connection) from mandrel-bends.com.  The perforated tube (the hard part to find) is coming from LAChoppers.

[Pumashine]

That will be great...we need some good info to share

Trx5 BB conversion  1" ID to 1 1/8" ID Pipe cut at stinger and new pieces fit. I used http://www.mandrel-bends.com/catalog/mandrel-bends-34/  This is chrome to polished stainless

[rsss396]

AAEN performance in WI has pipe parts
and SLP pipes out west has pipe parts

May even want to ask arlan at  LED, he may sell you parts

[F-Red]

I plan to do a full write-up on here with sources, in-process pictures and feedback on sound, temp, and power delivery when I do the mod.  It looks like it will be a couple weeks before I will have the perforated tube so I will get some ride time on it with the standard stinger for comparison.

I ordered the 1-1/4 od mandrel bend, the 1-1/4 straight pipe and 1-3/8 straight pipe (for slip connection) from mandrel-bends.com.  The perforated tube (the hard part to find) is coming from LAChoppers.

Thanks. Definitely keep us posted. :smile-new:

[Pumashine]

This was my PT type6 BB conversion for puma
Old stinger cut from pipe.


Pipe sanded until stingers goes through



Butt weld splice

[Bowtie316]

Thanks for posting the pictures Pumashine, I hope mine turns out as nice.

Only thing I haven't sourced is machining a new end cap for the ESR silencer, I don't think there is enough meat on the stock one to bore it out like it needs to be.

[Pumashine]

I have to build the stingers for the silencer from the same 1 1/8" ID tube. Hole in casacde muffler is 1 1/8"

[Bowtie316]

Well you really set the bar too high for me cosmetically. I hope mine comes out looking half as good.

[etccb]

Depending on what riding you are doing I believe there may be a connection between stinger size and torque. By all means make sure you are temp safe first but if your riding is not wfo you may not want to go to a bigger stinger for the heck of it.
Just a thought for the woods etc guys that are not over 370cc watching this discusion about the stingers if they are already temp safe.

[Bowtie316]

Depending on what riding you are doing I believe there may be a connection between stinger size and torque. By all means make sure you are temp safe first but if your riding is not wfo you may not want to go to a bigger stinger for the heck of it.
Just a thought for the woods etc guys that are not over 370cc watching this discusion about the stingers if they are already temp safe.

Yeah that was the only thing I was questioning. I don't want to loose all bottom end torque.  It's too late now, it's already in my head and pipe has showed up.  I will be a guinea pig for the 344 guys.  Speaking of which, mandrel-bends.com ships fast and this pipe looks huge. [/URL][/IMG]