Stripping a 14mm drain plug help!!

[csides66]

What should I do guys?? I went to drain the oil in the new 88 purchase I got last month and I noticed thread tape on the drain plug. When I put the plug back in it never tightened back up. Took it back out and noticed metal shavings on the bolt. Knowing its an aluminum case and 14 is already larger than factory it looks like the guy before me was a strong arm! What is the best course of action from this point? It will still thread up "kinda" it's not a smooth there are catches.

[The Phantom]

Check real well to make sure your case is not cracked..  I had mine tapped out for 14 mm and when I got it back from a professional builder I noticed it was cracked in 2 spots.  They told me it was like that and to just 3 bond the bolt when I put it in.  I thought the right thing to do would have been to weld or braze the crack but their excuse not to do that was it was to close to the edge of the case and the heat would make the center gasket not seal. Im not so sure a profesional would have had a problem doing this but what do I know.  I used teflon tape and its worked fine.  It would be impossible to get silicone to dry to an oily surface after the first oil change so Teflon tape is my alternative.  
On to your problem.. I believe there is an insert you should be able to get that you could try.  Someone else here should have info on these.

[Bowtie316]

Timesert, not cheap but is probably the best solution.

[udontknowme]

if you have a fastenal around they have a steel insert similar to timesert. seems like its only 10 or $15. be darn sure you drill and tap the new hole for the insert perfectly straight or its gonna leak

[Pumashine]

Timesert is the best way, the insert is cheaper, I have seen lately the plastic drain plugs that will not hurt your existing threads but still seal up. Well thats what is claimed. Your local shop can do it for around $30 but want the cases split. I did a thread on the other site where I drilled and tapped for the timesert without spliting the cases.  A friend had taken a fill plug and drilled and glues a plastic tube hooked to an air fitting. Using a low pressure stream of air the metal shavings come out the bottom during the procedure. I have lots of used fill plugs if you need one. Some guys have found a site that actually loan out the kit to put the timesert in. I think the kit cost is around $100 or more

[udontknowme]

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products?term=thread+repair&r=~|categoryl1:"600000 Fasteners"|~ ~|categoryl2:"600186 Thread Repair"|~ ~|categoryl3:"605514 Keyserts"|~&termca=&termpx=&sortby=webrank&sortdir=descending&searchmode=productSearch&zipcode=&filterByStore=&filterByVendingMachine=&pageno=1

[Hawaiiysr]

I agree with the fellas timesert is the best way to go expensive though. I introduced these to my boss at work and now he swears by them. We have salvaged many parts thanks to the timesert. These are a hundred times better than any helicoil.

[csides66]

Thanks guys!! I'm going to check out the timesert today! I'll keep you posted.

[Pumashine]

Thanks guys!! I'm going to check out the timesert today! I'll keep you posted.

You may get confused by the different kits. Different lengths of inserts come with the rest of the tools needed. I will try to get you a part# today. If you attempt to do it while on the bike be careful when drilling out the hole that you do not hit the shift shaft. That is the only reason the local shop won't do it without the cases split. The shop also gets cheap and puts the longer inserts in, then drills a hole to let the oil drain. And they epoxy it in. The 3 I have done have not leaked. You want to use the shortest insert possible. I am thinking there is a short video that shows you how to do the process.

[csides66]

You may get confused by the different kits. Different lengths of inserts come with the rest of the tools needed. I will try to get you a part# today. If you attempt to do it while on the bike be careful when drilling out the hole that you do not hit the shift shaft. That is the only reason the local shop won't do it without the cases split. The shop also gets cheap and puts the longer inserts in, then drills a hole to let the oil drain. And they epoxy it in. The 3 I have done have not leaked. You want to use the shortest insert possible. I am thinking there is a short video that shows you how to do the process.

That would be a huge help!! Thanks!! I planned on just tipping the "R" onto the rear grab bar to do the work. And running diesel fuel through the case to get any shavings out. I watched the video of a time-sert installation on youtube, that helped me wrap my mind around what work needed to be done. If you could help me get the right tools it would be MUCH appreciated! I know the drainbolt that was in it Miked at 13.78mm but my brother who is the mechanic of the operation called it 14mm x 1.5. IS it possible to do a time-sert that could go back to a factory 12mm?

[csides66]

Found this... http://www.amazon.com/TIME-SERT-1-50-Metric-Drain-1415C/dp/B003TNHFG2

[C-Leigh Racing]

What about those drain bolt kits you can get at Advance~Auto Zone with different size self tapping bolts.
Neil

[Pumashine]

Found this... http://www.amazon.com/TIME-SERT-1-50-Metric-Drain-1415C/dp/B003TNHFG2

Yep, thats it!  Here the air method I used



And the tools in the kit.

[csides66]

What about those drain bolt kits you can get at Advance~Auto Zone with different size self tapping bolts.
Neil

With out the movie "grease" referenced... Tell me more!

[C-Leigh Racing]

Upsss, lokie dair, ol shinemup boys got all you need, just need a box to ship in, you ship back with a few rent dollars included & your ready to go riding.
Only thing, next time you pull that drain bolt, when you put it back in, use two fingers & a thum on that 3/8 drive ratchet & scocket & twist with your wrist & you'll never strip it out again.
Neil