ESR 330pv water passages?

[Outlaw525]

Ok want to tell you a bought my esr 310. I was on the band wagon with the rest of the people that was mad a bought the over heating problem. Had a gauge in it would run hot 225 and 250. Had cylinder off once and milled out the front cooling ports just like every one told me to. No difference in temp. Here is what you need to do first check your cooling system then pressure test your crank case. When checking your cooling system make sure your cap is good and that your cap has a flat place to seal to. All my prob with mine was me overlooking the radiator cap sealing surface. If the cap won't seal it will not move coolent. Easy fix. Easy to miss hope this helps. I blamed it on esr for a while but it wasn't them it was me. Give it a good look over. Haven't had a heating problem seance. I should of known better than point fingers. Eddie is a great guy and was very help full with me. Thanks for all the great products Eddie

[trx250scar]

I am not blaming ESR simply trying to rule out the cylinder. I have a pwr radiator.  Tried known working radiators and caps  in place of the pwr. Those work fine on my other R's. I am not an engine builder but cannot help to keep going back to heat retention. A combination of a pv, torque exhaust flange from ESR, and a smaller diameter tail section seems to be a combination of things that will limit the flow of exhaust gas thus cause overheating. However I am not a builder and have been told by a few different reputable guys that those things shouldn't cause the overheating. What gets me is it runs real healthy real clean with a nice deep buuurrrrap sound. At a loss.

[rsss396]

The ESR pipe fits inside the lrd bb. I think the lrd is 1/8" bigger id. However I cannot measure it as I sold it.

IMO the smaller stinger is building more heat in the piston and some of this extra heat is absorbed into the cooling system, now this is more than likely not your cooling problem but in theory you are adding heat to it.
Creating more flow over the exhaust port area of the cylinder is a good thing and will make the cylinder less likely to seize but in no way is it going to lower your temps you read on your gauge.
When I look at your pictures, it looks as though you have allot of iron in your coolant, if this is true than you are clogging your radiator and complete cooling system and this and build up of lime and magnesium will slow the transfer of heat and not cool your motor.

[trx250scar]

That cylinder has only had 100% distilled water ran thru it. And it doesn't have many hours on it at all. Mostly break in were I was running very ez low rpm. I think those deposits u c r from that distilled water sitting in it. That wasn't the plan to leave it but after more important things came up the bike got put on the back burner. This has been a problem since last March almost a year. Mostly my fault as I would get discourage d and leave it sit for a month or two before I would try something else. Shoot I ended buying and building a trx450 to ride since then. The overheating showed up soon as started to really run it hard after break in. Long before the cylinder or radiator ever had a chance to build up any corrosion or deposits.

[Jerry Hall]

Your residue from your coolant looks terrible!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
100 % water has a low boiling point and is good at transferring heat but is not corrosion resistant.  Just run a 50/50 mix for distilled water with a name brand automotive coolant.  The 50/50 mix will raise the boiling point about 50 degrees.  High engine temperatures and high coolant temperature are two totally different problems.  

High coolant temperatures are a result of the radiator not getting rid of enough heat.  Probable causes:  Not enough air flow THROUGH the radiator, plugged up coolant passage ways inside the radiator,  fins peened over or the fins are full of mud, all air scoops not present or positioned correctly.  Radiator too small for the heat the engine is generating.  


High engine temperature is the result of poor heat transfer from the engine to the coolant.  This is caused from a film of corrosion inside of the water jacket on the cylinder and head, coolant with a low boiling point, the pressure cap not allowing the pressure to build.  Low cooling system pressure lowers the boiling point of the coolant.

[F-Red]

Status Oscar! What's the latest?

[Pumashine]

This was posted yesterday in the chat box by etccb:

that chatting got me to go click on my current  favorite link on the esr site. (330 4mil package) and look what I  found... There are some new pics there of I guess the new mill and a  shot of a non power valve with what looks like a deeper cut over the  exh.  http://www.eddie-sanders-racing.com/...er-kit-npv.htm

[trx250scar]

Thanks guys for the concern. I have shipped the cylinder off to ESR.  It's been there two weeks haven't had a call from him yet. I was giving him a little time before I called,but I think two weeks is enough I will be trying a call to him Monday for an update. Will let all of you know What He finds.

[F-Red]

Cool Oscar! Let's us know.

Thanks for the link Tony. That looks like a nice kit!

[trx250scar]

Alright update time. ESR had my cylinder for 2 months. Finally got a return call from Eddie. He said the problem was my dome. Said it was to much compression. It was a 330 stroker race dome. He sent a 330 stroker pump dome. That had me a little upset because when I ordered the combo He sent it to me with a race dome. I ordered pump dome. After receiving it I called to get the pump dome sent to me and That's when He told me I had to run a race dome and race fuel with this combo because of detonation. So I just decided to go with it and run 112 against my wishes as it's $12 per gallon. But figured got thus much in it so What the heck. Well needless to say the pump dome with either 93 ethonal free or 112 still overheated. At thus time I was so pissed I began to drill out my water jacket over the pv area. Reassembled and just took it to ride and realized I drilled to much and went thru the pv opening. I didn't c it when I drilled it as I left the pv assembly installed. It's small but now junk.not sure if it's repairable or not. Honestly I have so much money and time in this junk cylinder I feel I may just get pro x or cpi. Problem is I have a 4 mil stroke so the pro x still Maybe a problem. Everyone is saying the new ESR cylinder have better casting for cooling ability bit I am not sure I will give them anymore business. After all He saw it with his own eyes and sent it back with a dome He told me originally I could not use. All of this took him 2 months.

[rsss396]

You should be able to use some epoxy in the area that is leaking into the PV area, dont throw away the cylinder or give up.
you just need to clean it real well and use a good epoxy like Devcon, it takes just need a small amount to to fix this.

I mentioned this before: adding cooling around the exhaust port is not going to fix a overheating problem but it will allow the exhaust side of the piston run cooler and be less prone to seizing.

You are only going to fix a overheating problem by removing more heat at the radiator

[udontknowme]

welding is probly another option but for pete sake dont let millenium do it :biggrin-new:

[rablack21]

You should be able to use some epoxy in the area that is leaking into the PV area, dont throw away the cylinder or give up.
you just need to clean it real well and use a good epoxy like Devcon, it takes just need a small amount to to fix this.

I mentioned this before adding cooling around the exhaust port is not going to fix a overheating problem but it will allow the exhaust side of the piston run cooler and be less prone to seizing.

You are only going to fix a overheating problem by removing more heat at the radiator

^^^ This is good advice. Too many people forget that as you increase the size of your engine to these big bores, the heat rejection requirements for the engine go up as well. A factory 250R radiator will only do so much. You have 2 options to increase the heat rejection capacity of your cooling system: 1. increase the size of the radiator 2. increase the air flow through your radiator.
The 2nd option is basically fixed unless you mount a fan to the radiator or go with a shroud design that actually forces air through the fins when the quad is moving (most of the shroud designs don't)

The only other option left is to increase the size of the radiator. One other additional option that could help would be to run an oversize rad that has a dual pass setup, like AFCO. I think there is another brand that may also offer this.

It sounds like you may have messed up the cylinder out of haste. If so, it happens, but don't give up. Just take a breath. It can be easily fixed. Hang it there.

[rsss396]

running less compression (like you have), less ign advance, higher pressure radiator cap (increased pressure raises the boiling point) and a larger stinger and/or larger silencer (start with the silencer first), make sure the fins on the radiator are all straight and clean from dirt between them.

Keep in mind CR500's run at high temps most all the time and with proper jetting they live very long lives. Fix the water leak and go out and enjoy the bike, and slowly keep trying things to bring the temps inline

[rsss396]

Try running less compression (like you have), less ign advance, higher pressure radiator cap (increased pressure raises the boiling point) and a larger stinger and/or larger silencer (start with the silencer first), make sure the fins on the radiator are all straight and clean from dirt between them.

Keep in mind CR500's run at high temps most all the time and with proper jetting they live very long lives. Fix the water leak and go out and enjoy the bike, and slowly keep trying things to bring the temps inline