Clutch problems!

[switchrider]

Ordered me a new clutch cable last week figuring mine was streched and warn out, making my clutch have to much slack in the cable not letting my clutch fully let go. But after getting the new cable on still have the same problem. I have the adjustments as far out as possible, but the clutch only starts letting go 1/2 to 3/4 of pulling the lever. Any ideas!?

[kb250r]

Mine was doing that,and i thought it was warn clutch fibers...Put new clutch and same thing i was thinking maybe running a 400ex steel would  take up some room and engage the clutch sooner(1/4-1/2)...it was just a thought...

[Pumashine]

Any ideas!?

Have had this problems for years. Once I took my motor in and the builder had me weld a 1/16" spacer to the end of the push rod cup. Said the actuator arm was not in the right position. My 87 had the 3 little ball bearing grind into dust giving no pull at all. Since then I have been measuring all the push rods and have found them different lengths. Ordered extra ball bearings since I had lost a few. The key to using the new cable seems to be to getting the actuator arm in the position it needs to be. Now with the 89 update we have been using a thicker washer at the end of the push rod where it engages the outer hub. You can buy a brand new cable and it is too long. At first I made the cable holder a 1/4" longer to take up the slack. Now I just use a longer push rod and combinations of shims to get the actuator arm where it needs to be.

[4WHLr]

What puma said is the key.
 That actuator rod (the one the cable hooks to in the engine) is only a notch in that shaft. If its not in the correct position to get the best throw on it (because of worn or possibly mismatched combinations of parts) all the other adjustments wont mean too much.
Sometimes those actuator levers get pretty worn too so thats something else to look at.

[switchrider]

Stupid qeustion but i can't remeber when I tore it down but I need to get inside the motor to see that/take it out, correct?

[Pumashine]

To look at the inside you just remove the clutch cover. After removing the clutch the push rod can be taken out and inspected. Sometimes a pencil magnet works to get it out. Otherwise 2 small screwdrivers or a mini needle nose pliers to pull on it. The 89 update is suggested for this purpose.

[4WHLr]

After you get that push rod pulled out and inspected, like puma said, you can disconnect the clutch cable and the actuator lever will lift out to check that part out too.

I added a pic of a fresh one to compare that part too.

[switchrider]

Look good?

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[Pumashine]

Look good?

Yes not bad the edge you look at is the flat edge of the pocket. Some are real messed up with deep gouges. Yours looks a little beat compared to the one above it. Still plenty usable as they have been discontinued.

[switchrider]

What do you think the problem is then?!

[Pumashine]

Which year are you using? 86 and 87 used ball bearing at the end of the push rod. Are they there or in good shape? 85-86 #28        87 #27

[switchrider]

Not sure if this is What ur talkin about but? haha

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[switchrider]

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[Pumashine]

And there is a thin flat washer that goes against the pancake roller bearing? Should be stuck inside the outer hub on the Frisbee.You can add a shim here if the push rod is not long enough. Do you have a caliper to measure the push rod lengths?

[switchrider]

This guy thst sits behind the bearing!?