Clutch problems!

[switchrider]

And no I do not I can pry get one tho. Hole long should it be?

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[C-Leigh Racing]

Best as I can remember, the old model release rod, with the big ball roller & T shaped cap, that old model rod is shorter than the new model update kit with the top hat cap & needle thrust bearing & machine washer.

Another thing, the actuator arm, when the edge of that notch wears from the release rod wearing on it, its done for & if you try & weld it & machine it back out, the weld fill in area will chip off, been there done that & you got a mess after that.

What about the lower needle bearing at the actuator arm, down in the case half, do we know if they can wear out completely or not. Cause if that bottom one is bad, what is the tip of that actuator arm doing, probably not pushing that rod like it should.
Neil

[Pumashine]

This guy thst sits behind the bearing!?

Yes, thats it. If you add a .060 shim to it you will gain a few threads on the cable adjuster. Try comparing the length of both push rods. Use the longer one. What we are doing is adding some throw to your push rod. There for when you hook up your cable it wont have to pull so far in to release the clutch. In turn you will be able have your cable in the normal position with adjustment when your cable stretches.

[switchrider]

When you us a shim? What kinda shim do I put in there?

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[Pumashine]

And no I do not I can pry get one tho. Hole long should it be?

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8.060" to 8.070" or 205mm
'

[Pumashine]

When you us a shim? What kinda shim do I put in there?

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I make them up with the water jet cutter from different material thicknesses. Can mail one to you if you know what thickness you need. If you can measure your push rod and use a shim to make up the difference on how short it is.

[switchrider]

Alrighty! Thanks so much! More qeustions to come!
Dalton

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[switchrider]

Trying to find a caliper right now. I'll let you no what I come up with thank you pumashine!!!! Been a great help! Really appreciate it!

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[4WHLr]

Being that far into it you should have two flat hardened washers that look similar to the one you pictured. One goes behind the lock washer/tab that holds the inner hub on. #21 in the above diagram. And the one Puma is talking about which goes between the roller bearing and the pressure plate. (which is not shown on the diagram) Its kind of hard to judge the two in the pictures sometimes.
 The pressure plate one, usually sticks behind in there. Just wanted to point out the two of them. They wont interchange because of their size difference.

I also agree your lever isnt that far gone yet to cause this.

[switchrider]

Being that far into it you should have two flat hardened washers that look similar to the one you pictured. One goes behind the lock washer/tab that holds the inner hub on. #21 in the above diagram. And the one Puma is talking about which goes between the roller bearing and the pressure plate. (which is not shown on the diagram) Its kind of hard to judge the two in the pictures sometimes.
 The pressure plate one, usually sticks behind in there. Just wanted to point out the two of them. They wont interchange because of their size difference.

I also agree your lever isnt that far gone yet to cause this.

So you think its just the rod is too short?

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[4WHLr]

Well I cant measure mine very accurately, but the three I have, which should be 89 update (roller bearing) sized, and they are barely over 8"
My calipers only go 6" so it was an eyeball on a ruler.
I'd use Tonys numbers if you can measure yours with a bigger set.

[switchrider]

Well I cant measure mine very accurately, but the three I have, which should be 89 update (roller bearing) sized, and they are barely over 8"
My calipers only go 6" so it was an eyeball on a ruler.
I'd use Tonys numbers if you can measure yours with a bigger set.

Haha I just put two 6 inch calipers together and it measured out to be 8.040 for both of my rods

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[Pumashine]

Haha I just put two 6 inch calipers together and it measured out to be 8.040 for both of my rods

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Thats what I'm talking about. I have some that measure 8.040" and I know its on the short side. I can send you some shims that go with the washer on the pancake bearing. You should setup the clutch by putting everything on except the springs. Adjust your cable so you have some adjustment. Put the shim or shims in and have someone pull the clutch cable while you are holding the disks in place. You will see the push rod extend and push the disks open. The outer hub should open with plenty of space between the outer hub and the first disk. If you have too much space then adjust the cable. The pushrod extends as the actuator arm is turned. So a small adjustment in the clutch is a much larger adjustment at the cable. I use hydraulic clutches and it only works one way, the hydraulics push so much and its done. So all the real adjustment must be done inside the clutch.

[Pumashine]

I made up 20 sets of the shims


They go in place or next to the OEM one which measures .036"


I am sending a set of these to the OP. We will then see if this cures his problem!

[pinned250r]

Tony, thanks for helping Dalton out, i stopped by and had about 45 minutes to try and play with it last friday, i figured it was something not allow the clutch to fully disengage, but didnt have time to help him tear into it.

You're helping a good kid out! 16 years old and building his R!