Clutch problems!

[rablack21]

Tony, thanks for helping Dalton out, i stopped by and had about 45 minutes to try and play with it last friday, i figured it was something not allow the clutch to fully disengage, but didnt have time to help him tear into it.

You're helping a good kid out! 16 years old and building his R!

Yep, Both of you guys. Good men.

[pinned250r]

Yep, Both of you guys. Good men.

Thanks Ryan!

[Pumashine]

You're helping a good kid out! 16 years old and building his R!

He's also got the patients needed to work with these 25 year old machines. I mailed him the shims and asked if he needed them sooner than first class mail. His response was "no need for the fast shipping i got to get gaskets and stuff yet any ways" Planning and patients are key ingredients to building a reliable motor.

[pinned250r]

Bingo! And to add to the list, he is always looking to learn as much as he can! Can't say enough about this kid!

[switchrider]

thanks pinned! cant wait till i can no as much as all you guys!!

[switchrider]

Got my shims in the mail yesterday!! Thanks so much pumashine!! Plainin on trying them out today! See if this solves my problem!!

[Pumashine]

Got my shims in the mail yesterday!! Thanks so much pumashine!! Plainin on trying them out today! See if this solves my problem!!

Do take into consideration you can shim it too much. Too much space and the springs will not hold the clutch tight enough. Just as if your friction disks were all worn out and your clutch was slipping.

[switchrider]

Is there anyway to tell this before it all goes back together? Or just hit or miss?

[Pumashine]

Is there anyway to tell this before it all goes back together? Or just hit or miss?

I was trying to explain in an earlier post about holding the outer cover by hand that the push rod pushes against. No springs and bolts. Start by adding the thinnest shim. Have someone pull the clutch lever too see if the outer cover moves away from the plates and disks. If it does not go to the next shim. It should only take a few minutes as you are not assembling the bolts and springs each time. You need to hold the friction disks and plates with the other hand against the motor too see if there is some gap created as the push rod moves out. So you use both hands and the extra person pulls the clutch lever

I am guessing you will only need the smallest shim .030" thick as your push rod was .020" short.

[switchrider]

Alrighty thanks!! I'll start be doin that!

[Pumashine]

Alrighty thanks!! I'll start be doin that!

See if you can take a close up pic of where the actuator arm is pointing before and after you get done if possible. If not no big deal as you may not see the difference but I was hoping you would.

[switchrider]

It's all back together now I used the second smallest shim. Give me just enough tread on the handle bar and the case mount to have a tight lever with no play. It seems like it won't slip still good pressure on the plates.

[Pumashine]

It's all back together now I used the second smallest shim.

That is the .035" same thickness as the stock one its sitting next to. Glad I could help. Niel (C-Leigh Racing) asked me to make this kit as the guys were having problems with the clutch mod he invented. I cut about 40 sets and will make up the aluminum drain plug spacers available as a kit.

[switchrider]

Thanks so much!! You have been a huge help! Can't thank you enough!!